Chopper

Great work, Chris. Love the dog in the photo too, hah. I have three small suggestions for you -- 1) Raise your cod up, maybe an inch or an inch or two. By bringing it up, you'll get rid of the cod crunchie effect. You might also want to put some reinforcement material behind it, so it doesn't bunch up as much. 2) Your pouches are a bit close together. You might want to push them out, so that they sit approximately 1 inch from the outermost cummerbund rib on each side. 3) Your biceps are on backwards. The two "rivets" on the greeblie should face forwards. Just swap out your bicep armor and you should be ok. Easy stuff. Overall, good job dude!

That's not that bad. Is the gap area only on the top? Or is it on the curved front part too? If it's just the flat part on the top you can continue with the construction, even with the gap. Have you been saving your scrap trimmings? If so, you can make some abs paste once you end up joining the dome sections together using the flat plastic that came with the kit. The gap portion can then be filled with abs paste and then sanded smooth.

Overall shape is good. You could lower it a little bit more towards the bottoms, but not by much.

https://www.wampawear.com/product/biker-scout-gloves/

IB gloves are fine for clearance, but the Wampa Wear gloves are what most scouts use. Plus, being that you're in the US, you'll save on shipping using Wampa Wear too. The IB scout boots are ok for basic clearance, but need significant mods for lancer. They also come in a set height per size, so they may be too tall or too short depending on your build. Making your own boots is not too difficult and a good confidence booster. Use can use this guide: Off the top of my head, there's also a number of vendors who will make them for you. You'll need to talk with them about production times, prices, and availability. And https://www.facebook.com/groups/1517600621664236?id=1517600621664236&ref=content_filter&_rdr

I think you pretty much nailed it with your pencil marks. Good work.

The cuts look good from the side, dude. You should be all set.

If you look at this thread, it should show you how to rig up the zip ties for the shoulder bells .

What vendor helmet are you working with? Some are better suited to the 3M hard hat liner than others.

Welcome!

I've seen many scouts add rigid material, such as cardboard or plastic to their pouches in order to give them a sharp rectangular shape. While there is nothing in the CRL that says you can't do it, and many have done so for Level 2 (Lancer), the pouches in the film had a fairly loose filling in them to bulk them out. I used a bit of cardboard, folded in a way that would allow my phone to fit in the pouch, then surrounded the outside of it with cotton batting. Either way works.

I went to the chicago celebration using a flight helmet bag and had no issues. With multiple airline travel trips though, I'd probably err on the side off a hard shell case.

That's correct, the suede is only sewn to the flight suit along the top edge, which is concealed under the belt/bund.

Not familiar with that seller. Also, hard to say for sure without measurements, but it looks a little small in the gloved hand photo. If the seller Is just printing the scout blaster model that's been floating around the net, then it's definitely undersized.

Stroker is right on. E6000, which is silicone based contact cement, will adhere the clear plastic disc to the blaster. Assuming your blaster is not rubber, you could also use canopy cement, which dries clear and is sold in model/hobby stores.

If you mean connecting the shoulder bell to the bridge with both a velcro strap between the two, as well as a zip tie, then no, that would not be allowed for level 2.

I've seen both and a lot of it depends on personal preference and bin storage space. My chest/back are attached on the underside with velcro. My shoulder bells are zip tied to my shoulder bridge covering straps and those close with velcro on the bottom side. I keep my armor assembled in the bin, but both thre chest/back, as well as the shoulder bells are attached with velcro, so disassembly is an option if needed.

I def love my strider helmet. The new version looks great.

Just some feedback, but I think your squared off portion marked at the top of your riding patch might still be too low. You don't want to squared portion to show under your codpiece/belt. You could also round the top edges of the front of the riding patch, as is in the CRL photo, and it'd be ok.

I used this vinyl for my boots: https://www.fabricguru.com/marine-vinyl/marine-grade-vinyl-outdoor-upholstery-fabric-white.html It's smooth and doesn't have much grain to it.

Thanks Mickey. Yeah I've definitely been using your build thread as a guide. I think I'm going to try to both dremel down that ridge a bit and also cut a notch in the strap. Hoping that'll get the buckle to sit a bit more flush with the armor.

Progress continues. I'm finishing up on gluing the bicep and forearm armor, which should be done shortly. Right now, I'm looking at how to mount the buckles and straps on the chest armor. I'm assuming this is the correct orientation for the strap, and the ramped portion goes into the slot on the back armor? I'm still uncertain how to mount the strap and buckle properly? The underside of the buckle has a ridge in the middle that gets in the way when trying to mount the two together in a flush manner. Am I supposed to trim part of the shoulder strap to help them fit, or is there another way to mount them that I'm not seeing? Thanks everyone.

The visor should be black, not green. Most folks cut a visor out of a welders shield, like this one, then hot glue it into the faceplate: https://www.amazon.com/Hobart-770580-Shield-Replacement-Shaded/dp/B002VECKRO Don't paint the stripes on your back tank. Jeff should have added tank stickers to your kit, that's usually standard. You should email him if you didn't get them included. Otherwise, you can use these: https://trooperbay.com/decals/prop-replica-decals/star-wars-props/scouts-tb/biker-scout-tank-decals

The SC helmet isn't "small", but it's one of the smaller ones out there. If your head is on the larger side, then honestly I would lean towards getting the Altmann helmet from Spike.

The half moon-ish looking hole above the snout area should have some sort of a part there, yes.