Chopper

Hi Sven, no problem at all. I still think your belt is a bit high, but we can table that for the moment. I think it may be more illustrative from the side. See the attached photo -- I've marked approximately how the armor should ideally sit. You may need to trim a bit off of both front and back shoulder bridges to bring it into that position. Obviously before you cut anything, please make sure everything fits properly. Measure twice, cut one, etc... Feel free to give us a look before you trim, if you like. We're always here and happy to help. Corey

Anytime bro. We aim to please.

Hi Greg, I recommend that you get started with this thread below, started by our DL, Mickey. It has a lot of info and photos about the bund, which should be useful as you work on your own: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19967-soft-parts-best-practices/&tab=comments#comment-180654 The basics from the CRL -- Closes in back with 50mm (2") hook and loop fastener. Closure is right-over-left. Front of cummerbund has 5 ribs of equal width made of 6 vertical stitch lines, centered between the two fabric pouches. Most of us hang our bund onto the flak vest using velcro. Pouches are attached to the bund, using velcro along the top ob the bund and on the tab portion. I also put a small put of velcro on the bottom on the pouch, to keep them from flopping around. Here's how I did mine -- As for batting, it doesn't need to be super dense, I believe mine was between 1/8" to 1/4" thick. @greenyone recently did his own bund and mentioned in his thread (linked below) that he used three layer of 1/8" batting, adding up to 3/8 of an inch behind the sewn 1" rib lines. The rest of his bund had the single layer of 1/8".  http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/20202-greenys-1st-ever-costume-build-tb/page/6/&tab=comments#comment-186825 Hope that helps! Let us know if you have further questions!

Hi Sven! Overall, I think you look good and you shouldn't have any issues with basic clearance. Some small refinements you might want to consider -- Your chest armor looks good, but the back armor is drooping very low. This is also pulling your shoulder bells back when viewed from the side. You might want to consider trimming the shoulder bridges slightly for a better fit. I would actually bring your belt down a bit, maybe an inch? It seems high. Dropboxes are a bit high, should be about an inch from the bottom belt edge. Also, check where your cod strap connects in the back, in the photos it's slanted to your right side. But yeah, as I said, nothing huge, and certainly nothing that should hold you back from basic clearance. Let us know if you need anything else! Good work and good luck Sven!

Great work on the boxes. I have something similar for mine. Also the slot is perfect for storing your phone

Thank you very much for the comparison photos! These are always very valuable for the detachment if questions come up in the future. Overall some minor differences, but the two are very close. The only major difference seems to be the indents on the back rear side. Thanks again.

Great work dude!

Yeah, agreed with Tim. That is absolutely not screen used. Hard to say who the armor maker is from this angle, but yeah, that's definitely not the screen armor.

I don't believe so, or at least I haven't seen anyone share their experience here with trying to cut the IB scout boots. I do recall someone mentioning that the IB sole material was not so easy to cut with an exacto knife, can't seem to find the thread atm though

No problem. If it helps, I do have most of the patches. The thread I linked earlier should have more of the designs, including those that don't have patches, but if a photo helps your art team, here's what I've got: (Full size is linked)

I assume the WTF helmet comes with adhesive decals? If that's the case, then it's not necessary to do a clearcoat. I would only recommend doing a clearcoat if you're doing an RS build with the waterslide decals. Otherwise, no clearcoat needed :)

Good work Jason. Those look great.

No, it shouldn't go down that far, though it'll be easier to gauge, once you get your belt on. If you look at the CRL image, it should drop to about where the top of the suede patches are.

That looks great! Good work Jenny!

As you've probably already seen, some folks have posted their designs here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/15363-advance-recon-team-art-discussion/ There's no gallery at the moment, excellent suggestion though.

Hi Jenny. Overall, I think you've done a fantastic job. Those suede patches look dead on. And...as you've discovered, the odd ways that the elastic straps pull at the fabric is one of the more frustrating aspects of the scout coveralls. The rear photos are a bit small, so I can't zoom in much, but I think if you let them out slightly, maybe 1/2" (?), it should alleviate the issue. They don't need to be super tight -- but there's a happy medium between bunching, and just secure enough that they mostly stay in place.

With KriptonTop, always, always, always choose fedex shipping. I can't exactly recall how long it took from order to arrival at my door, but I think it was around 4 to 5 weeks in total.

Aside from the vent slots in the back, I can see some other small differences, but yes, it does look very close!

Hi Sven, your helmet should have no issues passing level 2 (Lancer). It looks great.

As it would make sense, whenever there was a scene with contact or falls, they wore the stunt suit. In addition to the bell lip, the stunt suit also has the compressed/crushed chest armor. You can see a few examples here: Han fights the scout: You can see the lip, or what is at least a rough/poorly cut trim line on the shoulder bell Luke jumps from Leia's speeder and throws the scout off. Bell lip is slightly evident here on the wearer's right shoulder. The scout rams Luke's speeder: Again, bell lip is slightly evident here on the wearer's right shoulder as well. I'm still of the mind that it's a combination of the wonkiness of the stunt suit mold lines + a quick and dirty trim job. Regardless, I welcome and enjoy the continued discussion

I've seen taller folks, like Stroker and Mickey, and they both wear the scout armor ok. (Of course, compared to me, everyone seems tall, lol) My opinion -- from the back, your SC armor does look slightly small on you, yes. I still recommend you keep trying to work the fit, because it's definitely something other tall folks have been able to do as well. We're always here to provide feedback and tips.

I've never seen one of their helmets up close before. Looks excellent and thanks for sharing.

Congrats dude!

Hi Cole, from what you've shown, I think the armor itself should be fine. Mostly, it's just some tips about getting it to fit better on you -- You should pull up your back armor, so it sits higher on you -- that's a big gap between the front and back armor. Also, your forearm armor is on your biceps, and your bicep armor is on your forearms. You might also want to bring in the legs on your coveralls some more. You might want to put some velcro on the top edge your bund and the bottom edge of your flak vest, which will help keep it from dropping down.

Scout helmets are painted, yes, though the rest of the armor is typically not painted with the exception of weathering. What make of helmet and armor do you have? The original helmets were painted "Ferrari white", but this is not necessarily a color that you'll find in most hardware stores. I used Rustoleum gloss white. Any white gloss or semi-gloss spray paint should work. I've heard that others look for "appliance white". If you're in doubt about the shade of white, you can paint a piece of scrap plastic and see how it looks when it dries. You'll need to prep your helmet prior to painting -- this involves sanding it with 600 grit sandpaper, then washing it to ensure that there's nothing on the surface to interfere with the paint adhesion. Make sure the helmet is fully dry before laying down any paint. Here are some basic tips for spray painting: https://www.doityourself.com/stry/5-tips-for-spray-painting-plastic Because spray painting can be tricky, you might want to practice on something else, or else you may end up doing a lot of sanding and re-painting. I also advise you pick up one of these. It attaches to the paint can and helps to apply the paint evenly. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Preval-vGrip-Handle-0202/203803591?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D24|Multi|NA|PLA|All_Paint_Smart|71700000048001153|58700004793621602|92700041080545837&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_Zuey-aR4wIVFoGzCh3qlwTdEAQYAiABEgIzrfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Remember, temperature and humidity can affect how the paint applies. Check what the ideal conditions are on the can, then check what it's like outside. Also, you might want to get a respirator, even if you're painting outside, since the fumes are definitely not good for you.