Chopper

Hey Jill, nice work on the DLT20A so far. Are you using the high build primer to help get rid of the print lines?

Given how often you'll be putting on/ taking off your armor, I would recommend sewing the velcro on. The glue may hold temporarily, but it will likely come off. Sewing is the best long term solution.

Hey dude, we met at awesomecon in April I think? On top of what the rest of the crew said, feel free to contact me offline via PM here, or the old line forums if you need additional help with build questions or feedback while looking at vendors.

You could try art supplies stores. They tend to have a large selection of xacto blades. The Kingshow boots is very popular and has the proper sole color: https://www.amazon.com/Mens-Water-Resistant-Boots-Wheat/dp/B017THAWAO My boots:

From here your cuts actually look ok. They could use some clean up, but I don't think you need to start over. You will still need to remove the double tread on the very bottom of the boots as well as the palladium logo on the heel (not sure if you've already done that). Also the color would need to be painted the proper "wheat" color. Again, you may already have that in the works. For xacto cuts on my boots, I used a chisel style blade for straight sole cuts. I found that really helped with the clean cuts.

Ah, apologies on the bad links. Yes, the item you posted should work!

Hey dude, just one pointer for you -- what you've got there looks like cotton twill tape. You should try and use 1.5"/40mm white cotton webbing, like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Trimz-Webbing-White-10Mtrs-40mm/dp/B07QG266ZK/ref=sr_1_41?keywords=40mm+white+cotton+webbing&qid=1569169117&s=gateway&sr=8-41 https://www.amazon.co.uk/40mm-Cotton-Belting-Webbing-White/dp/B01MTBAJ8J/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=40mm+white+cotton+webbing&qid=1569169117&s=gateway&sr=8-12

Chef is a former pathfinder detachment co, so he's pretty good about keeping up with the crl updates. I saw a post in July where he mentioned that he's using new bund fabric here: https://m.facebook.com/1034504319941133/photos/a.1054562741268624/2425615270830024/?type=3&source=48 He should be good with the bund, cod, and vest. Out of curiosity, what updates do you need to do with your drop box strapping?

I prevent "boot droop" using the elastic and velcro boot blouser that I sewed to the side of the vinyl. I keep it secured around my leg and it helps to keep it up while my blaster is holstered.

Yikes, that is some serious cracking. Sorry this happened with your gear so quickly. Again, I would reach out to Jeff about replacements, especially given how few troops you've done with it. That said, I did notice that you don't have any metal backing washers on the back side of the rivets. Metal backing washers help to alleviate the stress that's placed on the plastic when you compress and set the rivet. You can see how I have my holster riveted here:

If you've got some photos, post them up and we can give it a look. I've got a SC holster too and it doesn't have any signs of cracking, though sometimes not all sheets of abs are the same. Also you should reach out to Jeff from SC. He's pretty well known for his excellent customer service.

Welcome and here's to many more troops as a scout! 🍻

This doesn't have the sections separated, but our own @MrPoopie has a TB snout file available: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967563

Hey there, you might want to use an image hosting service like imgur or dropbox.

I believe they're generally correct, yes. Have you already looked at some of the other RS build threads here? This is a good one: As a reference point, I did find this image a long time ago, I think it was from Mon Cal, which displays the measurements of one of the original helmets. That might help you as well.

Hi Nathalie, some small feedback -- Switch your left and right bicep armor parts. The two vertical dots on the bicep greeblie should be facing forward. Pull your knees up a bit. You can put a square of velcro on your flight suit knees and the inside of the knee armor to try and hold it up. You can also do the same on your bicep and forearm armor if you're having a hard time keeping those stable on the suit as well. Switch the "slots" on your drop box clips so that it's on the bottom. You have the clips right on the back, swap 'em around on the front side. And also yes, as mentioned, you should bring your drop boxes up. The ideal is 1" from the belt, but that's for level 2. You can avoid the "cod crunchy" effect, by bringing up your cod, so it lays flat on the top of your body. Now for the hard part -- in my honest opinion, the WTF chest and back armor appears to be fairly oversized on you. Have you talked to your GML for their feedback at all yet? There are some things you could try to work on adjusting it for basic clearance: Bring the back armor up -- probably 2 to 2.5 inches (eyeballing). You should bring the chest up to match as well, but you're somewhat limited there, due to the height of the collar on the front side. As with all things plastic, measure and mark twice before cutting anything. Overall, I think you're mostly in good shape. As I said, my primary concern is the sizing of the chest and back armor. If you have more questions, need more feedback, or want to bounce some ideas off of the team, let us know.

You are very welcome. That's what we're here for!

Yeah as greeny said, I recommend you stick with the straight cuts. As you can see from my boxes in the photo below, I attached the straps with velcro and angled them on the inside, which helps with the fit and placement when worn.

A common solution for the "boot droop" is to sew an elastic boot blouser onto the vinyl. It's hidden by the holster, but it helps to keep your boot up, when you've got your pistol holstered.

I've washed both my coveralls and flak vest after some particularly hot troops left salt marks on the suit. I went with option 'A", and hand-washed them in the bathtub with some woolite and cold water. Then I wrung them out with a towel and let them air dry. Probably the safest/most conservative way to get them clean. As Scott mentioned, some folks turn the coveralls inside out, then spritz the insides with rubbing alcohol.

Yeah, that should be perfect for novus polish then.

There are only a few folks offering the DLT20A right now. Diamond State Props used to be the go-to maker, but they've closed up shop at the moment. Offhand, I know of two makers that offer the DLT20A -- Christopher Zuk at procoprint3d: https://www.procoprint3d.com/product-page/dlt-20a-edium-blaster-rifle I can confirm that the procoprint3d DLT20A is the one used in the CRL photos. The other one I've seen discussed here is Mando Makes Prop Services: https://www.facebook.com/MandoMakesPropServices/ I have not personally handled the Mando Makes DLT20A, but there are some detailed photos here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/20100-dlt-20a/&tab=comments#comment-182001 I hope that helps!

Are the marks just from general wear, and not spray weathering? If it's just general wear marks, you could go with novus plastic polish. I know that's what the TK's use over at WhiteArmor.

You can see an example of Mr. Poopie's scout sole here. Should give you a view of how the cuts are arranged.

Out of curiosity, who is the maker of that greeblie? The Magic of the Myth tank topper does have 8 fins, but as per the level 2 portion of the CRL: -Tank has screen-accurate greeblie tank topper detail. -Tank topper is a separate greeblie to the tank itself. -Tank topper is secured with single metal colored rivet in the center of the greeblie. The specific number of fins is not specified, just that the topper appears "screen accurate". You could use a razor saw to cut that last fin and it's base portion, then sand it flush.