Chopper

Ah ok, you used rusto filler primer? I have had some reactions with the filler primer, even with rustoleum paint as the next layer. The idea of filler primer is that it's mixed with bondo to help even out any surface imperfections. If you want to use filler primer, you spray it, then, after it dries, you sand it smooth. After that, I'd recommend you do a coat of regular primer. If you're using rustoleum, you can use rusto painters touch grey primer, or white primer. Once the coat is dry, and any other sanding complete, then you can do additional layers in gloss or semi-gloss.

Hi Diego, what brand of paint and primer were you using? How much time did you give between the layers curing? Were these older cans of paint? Were they thoroughly mixed prior to painting? Spray paint can be REALLY finicky. Different paints use different types of solvent to bind the paint to the underlying material. If the paint types aren't compatible, then you can end up with reactions similar to what you encountered. You can also have reactions between the paint layers if the underlying layer is not fully cured. Generally I try to wait 48 hours between layers. You can also have issues with "pebbling" and uneven spray if the paint and solvent isn't fully mixed in the can. I try to shake my cans for a good few minutes prior to spraying, then I test the finish on some scrap fabric first, to make sure everything is coming out evenly. I think you may need to hit the 220 grit sandpaper to get some of the cracking out of the finish. Once you get the crackled paint sanded down with 220, you can re-sand it with 400 and then 600 to smooth out the finish for re-painting. Aside what I've already mentioned, you can also look at this guide for some basic spray painting tips: https://www.wikihow.com/Spray-Paint

I was doing an Amazon order anyway, so I grabbed a pair of these as well. I can confirm that they are EXACTLY the same as the 3M helmet bolts required for Level 2/Lancer.

Congrats Mark and well earned!

I'd say that you can do a little bit more. Based on the reference, this is about where your ear hole should be: Also, they used the EFX scout helmet for the Mando Scouts, so you can get some better views of the ear holes in the review posted on StarWarsHelmets: http://www.starwarshelmets.com/EFX_Scout_Trooper_Limited_Review.htm

Much better! Bravo!

Thank you, Sebastien. Your bund and cod shape looks much better! I know that you're still in-progress with your application updates, but one item that the team wanted to give you a heads up on is the stitched arc on your codpiece -- the arc should be at about the lower 1/3 of the cod. See image below with the CRL photo for comparison. You should be able to remove any stitch marks by steaming the fabric. As always, please let us know if you have any questions or concerns for the team.

Well, there is no published CRL for the mandalorian remnant scout at this time, so you wouldn't be able to get approved as a mando scout until it's ready. You can check the progress here though: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21087-tb-scout-trooper-the-mandalorian-crl-drafting/&tab=comments#comment-192864

Are you looking to only go for basic approval, or are you aiming to keep your options open for Level 2? The first link has ok sole cuts, though the heel cuts are not cut correctly. The soles in the example also have 2 tone soles, which would need to be painted a single color for level 2. The second link has no sole cuts, so those would have to be added. In addition to the link posted above for cheesewhoopy, there's also @StephTrooper. I believe she does her boots in runs. You can check her wares here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1517600621664236/

Congrats Lancer!

Are you talking about the half-circle cut on the very top of the visor that fits against the dome? It shouldn't be rubbing. You can adjust it by marking and cutting the circle in more, bit by bit, until it doesn't rub anymore. Here's one example of how it's trimmed on an altmann helmet:

Hi Sebastien, thank you so much for your application. The Level 2 review team has reviewed your photos and have the following feedback for you: First off, we want to commend you on your excellent thermal detonator wrap job. Yours is one of the best wrapped detonator tubes that we've seen so far! Flight Suit Dressing adjustment -- Please make sure you pull down the butt flap next time you get suited up. The length/width of the flap looks ok based on the armor off shot, so just keep an eye out next time you get suited up. Shoulder Armor The shoulder bell elastic appears to be 3/8" not 1/2" as per the CRL. Can you please take a clearer photo to confirm? CRL: Armor is secured around bicep with a 1/2 inch (12mm) black elastic strap. Forearm Armor Dressing adjustment -- next time you get dressed, check that your left forearm armor is rotated forward a bit more, so it's at about a 45 degree angle. Chest Armor Can you please provide a measurement photo for the shoulder bridge coverings? CRL: Shoulder bridge covers, covering the join between the front and back of the armor, are made of white cotton webbing or elastic. Covers are between .5 inch and 1 inch wide. Cummerbund Your bund looksa bit long for your build. Can you confirm if you've tucked it under your belt? Ideally the bund length is typically around 9" and should be sitting on top of the belt. Codpiece Your cod is very narrow and triangular in shape. The sides should be more of a curve, as per the CRL photos. See photo below. CRL: Codpiece and sewn curve conforms to shape pictured in the CRL or Costumes book. Belt and Detonator As we mentioned earlier, EXCELLENT job on the detonator!!!! 😃 Blaster Please remove the clear lens from pistol scope, it was not used in the screen used versions. Boots Your boot shafts are fairly wide for your leg and your right boot has a significant droop, due to the weight of the blaster. Additionally, the stitching on your dog bones appears straight, not rounded. See reference photo below. CRL: Dog bones have double stitching along the rounded edges as seen in the film. It may be possible to reduce the boot shaft size by adjusting the position of the inner rear vinyl shaft halves on the back of the boots. You'd end up having the re-position and re-sew the velcro once you adjust to the proper size. I fully acknowledge that this is going to be tricky, as you will want to avoid a "cone look" with a large lower portion of the shaft and a smaller upper shaft. One tip for avoiding "boot droop" is to sew some elastic into the boot vinyl. It's sewn behind the holster and wraps around your calf. You can't see it, but it does keep the boot from dropping down when the blaster is carried. It's not the only way to do it, but it is one way. Overall, it may seem like a lot, but a majority of our feedback is dressing and verification questions. The three big areas to focus on are the boots, bund, and codpiece. Overall, I'd say you're about 90% of the way there, but we just need to do just a bit more to get over the finish line. Please let us know if you have any questions, need any clarification, or if there's anything we can do to help.

Congrats Pathfinder!

Depends on the paint you used -- you can use many different types of paints with an airbrush, such as acrylic, enamel, lacquer. If you're running acrylic with the airbrush and it's fully dried, then no, just water won't take it off. 90% iso alcohol will take it off though, with some scrubbing. You can clearcoat over acrylic if you want, just make doubly sure all layers and paint types are cured. I don't recommend it on the scout, since some of the scrapes and rubbing off is close to the screen used weathering. Also, keep in mind that many clearcoats aren't crystal clear and tend to yellow over time. The reactions you get to the rattle cans is usually due to either incompatible solvents used in the paints, or uncured layers of paint underneath...or both. Acrylics are fairly non-reactive, mostly because there's no solvents. Acrylics won't etch themselves into the plastic, they just sorta sit on top, which is why you can remove acrylic more easily than other types of paint.

Position looks good!

Thank you, Sebastien. Our team will review your application and get back to you.

Either will work as long as the final result looks like the screen weathering. The main advantages of the airbrush are that you have more control over the spray flow and can use acrylic paints, which is a bit more forgiving to remove if you don't like the way the "blast" pattern turned out.

Stephen, I want to offer a sincere apology. Your response in the thread today had me checking the feedback we'd posted a few days ago. In looking at the earlier post, I realized that the first part of the feedback had been left off -- likely a cut and paste error. Please add these two items below to your initial feedback list from Monday 6/15. (I'll edit the original post so it's all in one place as well). Again, I am very sorry to have missed this in the initial posting and please accept my apologies. _________________________________________ Helmet: -The seam-joins on the helmet are uneven and will need to be re-sanded and cleaned up for Lancer. We’ve marked the areas that need attention in the photos below. -The decal that sits above the snout is misplaced. It should be mounted higher, on the flat/vertical area just underneath the visor. Please see reference photos below for proper positioning. -The visor appears to be green in color, the CRL specifically calls for "black in color". It will need to be replaced. CRL Level 1: “Lens is black in color and obscures wearer's eyes” -Your chin cup is threaded incorrectly. Please see reference photo below for proper threading, -Also, can you please provide a close up photo of your chin cup? We are uncertain what the two white pieces are? See marked photo below. Flight Suit: -We are unable to see the butt flap on your coveralls, due to the small size of the images. Please provide linked higher resolution photos for our review. ________________________________________

Thank you very much for the follow up, Marc. Glad to hear that it's sized appropriately.

Yeah, I can see that. Maybe 3/4" to 1" off each side?

HI Mark, great work on the new cod. It looks much better! the team has reviewed your updates and we have three items that you still need to address: 1) There's still some bunching around your flak vest sleeves. We suggest you try ironing them with steam. 2) There's still some bunching with your trouser legs. Did you end up adding stirrups as noted in the first set of suggestions? If you already did, and there's still bunching, then you may need to look at taking in the outside seam a bit for a better fit. 3) Your thigh straps are correctly positioned, but they are still too loose. They should not be drooping, but should also not be super tight.The back side image of the CRL model is a good example of how they should ideally fit. You can adjust the straps by seam ripping the backside riding patch, pushing in the excess strap material, then resewing it. You'd likely only need to seam rip maybe 2.5-3” of the riding patch seam. You've come really far. Just a little bit further and you've got it!

Thank you, Mark. The team is currently reviewing your updates.

The thermal det metal clips? If you take some needle nose pliers, you can sorta work them down towards the closed end part and open them a little bit. Not too much! That should make it a little easier to slide them over the belt webbing.

That's a good point, Pete. I had thought of DJ as well. From what I've seen though, the DJ tank topper might be too big for the WTF tank.

That's gonna be a tough one. There are some sizing differences with the WTF armor, when compared to the screen used armor. As a result, using the most accurate greeblies may not actually fit properly. You can get greeblies from Studio Creations a la carte. I *believe* they will fit the WTF armor -- I'm specifically thinking about the recesses on the bicep armor, as well as the tank topper. https://studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html