Chopper

E6000 is a decent flexible bond, but it's a contact cement -- not permanent. If you want to chemically bond the plastic together, then you can use some Devcon Plastic Weld. Glued properly, that flange will never come off again.

I don't have any better photos, just the glimpse you see on screen. I imagine they just heat bent a piece of styrene into an L-shape. As Mickey said, as long as you can't see it from the outside, you can attach the holster however you'd like.

The screen used costumes had an L-shaped bracket behind the side of the holster, near where the cuts are, to help affix it to the boot plate.

Yeah, I don't think you need to fill the holster seam against the plate, I mean, not unless you really want to.

This photo is from the odd, one-off left handed holster, but you can see that the slits aren't all perfectly straight either. I think your slits are ok.

Yes, that's correct. Gino has mentioned that there were different markings on the tank toppers, maybe to differentiate between the various suits. The current CRL only allows for the "white dot" version of the tank topper though. Based on Gino's suit and screen grabs, the red line detail on the top of the vertical piece of the knob should be on both ends and the top.

The CRL images have the belt as left over right and you're free to emulate that setup. There's nothing specifically in the CRL that requires one side over the other though. Either works.

I think you're right.

That's Strider's photo, but many of us have used the same way to rig it up. There is velcro sewn on the ends of the elastic (you can faintly see the stitch marks), which attach to the velcro on the underside.

This is one way to do it: Image taken from this thread, which is worth a read: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/

Yeah, I received a helmet stand with my order. Lots of free goodies this year.

Welcome back to the Pathfinder family!

I have no idea what the extra bund parts could be for. The second is the neck seal undercollar that you can see in the green screen speeder bike chase.

My draft copy of the Mr. P. chest half finished printing not too long ago. Just for the same of comparing sizes, I put it up against my KW chest plate -- they're pretty much the same size. Looks like I don't need to do any scaling. At least not for the chest pieces.

It's been a while, but this build is not dead. I'd mentioned earlier how unhappy I was with a lot of the cracking I was experiencing on this kit -- especially on the chest and back pieces. I had bought this kit second hand, still in the box and un-assembled, but I don't know if it was sitting in someones hot garage or something. Either way, the amount of cracks and reinforcements I had to deal with was getting increasingly frustrating. New approach -- I've been talking with Mickey a bunch and I ended up getting a CR10 printer through Creality's Black Friday sale and I also picked up Mr. Paul's files as well. At 5ft8 I'm a little shorter and smaller than the ideal 5ft11 size, so right now I'm printing the chest at back plates at 0.4 line height and 10% infill just to get a sense of sizing, and to determine if any down-scaling is needed. I also picked up the new Imperial Boots Shoretrooper undershirt. This this is NICE! It zips up in front and has thumb loops to keep your sleeves in place. It's certainly a lot more comfortable than the old one, which was a pull-over and felt a bit like wearing a couch cushion cover. The new IB shirt also comes with a separate neck seal...which looks to be one size fits all. The zipper is oriented the proper direction for Level 2 clearance. However, I had to remove about 4" off the original circumference in order to make it fit me. Not a difficult task if you can do the sewing or want to pay to get it altered, but it's something to keep in mind. I'll post more when I get my chest and back sizing prototypes together.

If you are concerned about stitch marks on the front side of the pouch tabs, you can always sew the velcro along the sides and top edges, leaving the bottom edge free. The pouches will still adhere just fine like that. And as Dennis said, the tops of the tabs are hidden by the chest armor anyhow.

As Pete said, either a denim needle or a leather needle will work.

Thanks, Mickey, for guiding us through another year! 2021, the future is now...

Pouch looks good!

Hi, the WTF helmet doesn't have a ton of visual build threads available. However, there is this one that might be useful: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/20405-tb-80225-wtf-helmet-build/&tab=comments#comment-185533 I can't give you an exact measurement answer of "how much" to trim, but hopefully you can get a general sense from the photos in the links above. The scout helmet assembly can be very finicky and can vary, not only between makers, but also from helmet to helmet. These are some final assembly measurements from one of the screen used helmets, but I'd guess that the WTF helmet's dimensions will differ, so I wouldn't use it as an absolute guide. https://imgur.com/QZjXVkL Make sure to trim a little bit at a time and test fit the parts before you do any gluing. If you're unsure, post up a photo and we'll get you the guidance you need.

In terms of quality, your collar looks fine. You basically just want your collar to fit well (in other words, not grossly oversized) and feel comfortable when you wear it. There are no specific requirements for height or how tight it needs to be -- it just needs to conceal your neck in conjunction with your balaclava.

Congrats Lancer!

Jeremy, the red line marker where you have the dog bone seated right now will be fine. The primary issue some folks have had with their dog bones for level 2 is when they've glued the dog bone to the tan sole itself. That's not an issue where you have the dogbone situated right now, so you're good.

If you order these, then they should be the properly sized, concave 3M bolts. They will be grey, not black, though. So you'd need to paint them. https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Metal-Honeywell-FM4001-Quick-Lok-Adapter/dp/B002BUMS8Y/ref=psdc_7491811011_t1_B015MG1SMK The bolts referenced earlier by MickeyMark are black, but they are convex in shape.

I expect that you should have no issues with approval. Nice work.