Chopper

I wouldn't go any thicker than that, no.

Hi Dave, the cod issue is two-fold: 1) Your new cod is too narrow. Your original cod was better in terms of width, but it crumpled too much. 2) Our suggestion is that you fill in the red marked areas on your original cod, which should hopefully stiffen it enough to stop crumpling when worn.

There is a chart embedded in the CRL links:

The SC kit uses an asymmetrical detonator box, so you should be fine. Try and keep the grey hose positioned evenly. The zip tie should hold it relatively securely in place.

Hi Chris, I believe it would be the left side version, but you want to loop the webbing through like this:

I think you can leave the collar alone for now.

The collar looks fine as long as it doesn't interfere with the helmet. Your neck just needs to be covered between the collar and the balaclava. From what I can tell, the tailor needs to shorten the midsection a bit, which you've already self adjusted, and they should also adjust the legs and sleeves for a better fit as well.

The inside flaps are not a problem.

Either will work. ABS paste, which you make yourself from any scrap trimmings + acetone will blend and bond better. That and you can also use it to close the gap between the back and the dome portions, but that's up to you. Otherwise, you can use the Oatey ABS cement that's commonly sold in hardware stores. Devcon plastic weld epoxy works too. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/

The crimps are not an issue.

The flat metal bolts from SC are fine for basic clearance, but if you want to go for Level 2, then you need to use the proper 3M style bolts depicted below. Helmet lining is purely your preference and what fits you best. Padding, hardhat liner -- it's up to you.

The best advice I can give you is to try and see if a little bit of heat will loosen the caps. Be gentle. If they don't loosen, just leave them as is.

If that's the way it's rigged up, then yes, that would be true. You could try heating it a bit with the hair dryer and try to see if that'll ease the glue up a bit. I suspect that they used superglue though, so heat isn't going to effect the bond much.

Yeah, it could stand to get a little bit more of an indent, but not much. I'd try using a hairdryer and a hard rubber ball to try and get a bit more indent, before attempting to rip them off. I know they're glued on pretty well, so the risk of damage is something to be concerned about. See images below for screen used det caps.

Before you go and remove the end caps on the detonator, can you show us a close up photo of what they look like?

Great job, Andy.

Trooperbay sells the stripe decals, though you could easily just get some automotive pinstriping. If you want to do the 4 stripe version, us 1/8" for the narrow tank details and 1/4" for the thicker "rank" stripes. https://trooperbay.com/biker-scout-tank-decals

Are you talking about @Chrisx909x?

You're steadily getting to the finish line. Keep it up, Andy.

Hi Andy -- I wouldn't put the velcro on the bund to keep your chest armor from sliding. Try putting it on your flak vest instead. You can add some velcro around the lower-ish portions of the front shoulder straps and add some velcro around the same place on your vest. Your bells don't look crazy large, maybe a little bit. You're certainly ok for basic clearance right now. Reference your bells vs the photos below. If you want to make an adjustment, I'd try and match the current line around the bottom and trim no-more than 1/2".

Jeff from Studio Creations has had years of exceptional customer service. You should receive your armor fairly soon.

The biker scout costume is primarily a soft parts costume and is able to fit many different body shapes and sizes. At 5ft12, you should fit into the armor hard parts just fine.

Hey Majora -- 1) I would email info@rspropmasters.com and ask your payment questions directly of RS Props. Info of that nature is best asked of the business itself. 2) As long as the RS armor fits you correctly, the armor should be good to go for 501st approval. Remember: nothing is 501st approved out of the box -- it's all about how it fits you. If you're interested in Level 2/Lancer, note that RS uses Imperial Boots for their soft goods, which will not pass Level 2 clearance. 3) There's a lot of layers on the scout, so I'd hesitate to wear something extra. Usually I just clean my coveralls and flak vest with a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol mixed with water, or hand wash it if that doesn't do the trick.

Congrats Lancer! A job well done!

You're in the right ballpark. I'd bring it up maybe 1/8".