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Chopper

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Everything posted by Chopper

  1. Chopper
    That is AWESOME my dude. A+ work!
  2. Chopper
    Ah ok, that definitely still looks workable. You can put a bit of superglue under that little spot on the left, once you're done with all the cuts, to hold it down. If it's that difficult to cut through it though, I'm thinking that what Darthsnark said earlier is right-on the money. Some work boot soles are much denser than others. You may need to use a very small drum bit from a dremel to work the cuts, or you can get a hot knife.
  3. Chopper
    Oh and the other thing to mention is that the depth of the cut doesn't need to be deep. The cuts on the orig sierras are really shallow, so you don't need to go for super deep cuts or anything like that.
  4. Chopper
    Ok, are you using both blades? Cut the rectangular outline with the regular exacto, then, from the bottom of the sole, chisel up to remove the part? If you're already doing that, go ahead and send some close up photos and we'll take a look. As a last resort, you can buy a hot knife and use that, but we're not there yet.
  5. Chopper
    Hi Rob, the back and forth can sometimes take a minute because the review team is comprised of several people who all weigh in and give their views on the application. That said, we should be ready to post our feedback very soon, so we greatly appreciate your patience!
  6. Chopper
    This is a timely question, as something similar came up in one of our Lancer reviews. The ribbed elastic is not ideal and the non-ribbed is certainly preferred. However, the CRL doesn't specify, so the armory team is allowing it right now.
  7. Chopper
    Thank you for posting that, Jenny. I have no doubt that it will be useful for many prospective scouts in the future.
  8. Chopper
    E6000 and Shoe Goo will eventually slip and move over time. Even moreso in the heat, which is a significant consideration given that you're in AL. My covers have moved a bit over time, and I'm only in MD. If you can get some barge cement, that's what I'd go with and what I plan to use for my next boot build. I'd do some practicing with it first, but Lucasfan7 used it with great success on his boots.
  9. Chopper
    Here's the post I was remembering about working with and using leather on the boots: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19916-tk-24576-who-also-wants-to-be-tb/page/4/&tab=comments#comment-196119
  10. Chopper
    Leather can be tricky to work with. There's one scout who used leather to cover their boots a few years ago. Let me see if I can find the thread. I used marine vinyl for mine. I just recently bought the sierra sole underboots from CrowProps and had no issues. He ships via DHL and they arrived within the promised timeframe.
  11. Chopper
    I'm not sure how I missed this? Congrats on starting a scout! With the scout ear holes, the shape should sorta look kidney bean-ish. If you have a circular file, I'd work a little bit on trying to round out the hard corners I've marked in the photo.
  12. Chopper
    Your bells actually look ok in terms of proportions. I'd let them out maybe a half inch more from your shoulder bridges, round out that mid-bell angle, as well as the bottom corners, but yeah, I don't think you need to replace them unless you really want to.
  13. Chopper
    The heel of the sierra's basically looks like the pattern you have marked out. I don't think there's any reason to change what you have marked.
  14. Chopper
    Jenny, those boot stencils look just fine . You can go ahead and continue the cut pattern around the toe and heel and that should be good for Level 2 clearance. We realize that the Sierra sneaker sole isn't available (well, until recently...but the point still stands for the Level 2 reviews), so you don't have to exactly match the cuts, but you should try and get close. What you have should be a-ok, once you finish it up. I haven't heard about using a rivet in quite a while. 4505Marcel used to do it back in the day for his boot builds, but it's not a typical. I wouldn't do it -- who needs a piece of rivet sticking into your foot all day?
  15. Chopper
    How much work are you looking to do and what's your budget? You can make a great boot with marine vinyl and a work boot for relatively cheap. If you want to go for Level 2/Lancer, you'd need to cut the soles out, but it's totally doable. The new IB boot is pretty good and you don't have to worry about doing a boot build. Again, if you're interested in Level 2, you'd need to make sure that the shaft height is tall enough for where you knee armor sits. And the new CrowProps base boot is pretty great too. It'll cost more than a cheap work boot, but you'll have nicer soles to work with when you lay down the marine vinyl. Again, up to you depending on time/effort/cost.
  16. Chopper
    Yeah, we have not gotten very many applicants using IB soft goods for our Level 2 reviews, so I'd be curious to know more. If you have any close up photos of the suede parts, feel free to send them our way and we can take a look. If it's the back of the waist that feels tight, then I'd def see if you can get a slit with some flex fabric added. As I said, as long as it's under your belt and bund and isn't visible, then you should be good.
  17. Chopper
    This is what you're looking for in picture form: The 1/8" measurement is the diameter of the shaft, not the pull/grip range, nor the measurement of the flange. You do want to use a small flange rivet head, which as per your photo, appears to be fine.
  18. Chopper
    I gotta say, Andy, from the photos above, you look pretty great. I like what you did with the cod re-shaping and the current position looks good as well.] You can leave the suede riding patches as is as well, what you have looks good. If I can ask, do you know if IB used real suede for the riding patches, or is it faux suede? As you identified, the side straps do look a little loose for Level 2, and I think your stated adjustment will probably take care of it. The costume will never feel like a loose set of Dickey's coveralls and even I can't fully kneel or bend over when I'm suited up. (I usually have to use what's called a "golfer's lift to grab something off the floor). In terms of flight suit tightness, where are you feeling it? Just above your waist? Knees? You, or a tailor can potentially add a slit with flex fabric, or spandex if it's covered by your vest or bund. Again it all depends where you're feeling the tightness the most?
  19. Chopper
    You can get the helmet bolts from KW by following the instructions in the following thread: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/10270-fs-accurate-tb-helmet-hardware-kit-headband-kit/&tab=comments#comment-86123 We've also determined that these bolts from amazon are the proper 3M bolts: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21649-fibre-metal-helmet-bolts-3m-substitute/&tab=comments#comment-199071
  20. Chopper
    You can see the front tab velcro patch in the photo below. It's subtle, but it's there. What you have looks pretty good in terms of size. It's really hard to tell from the photos if there's a diagonal stitch, but if Strider did it in his thread, then I think you're safe in this instance. The pouches you see on screen weren't super rigid, but plenty of folks add cardboard stiffeners to their pouches at both the basic and lancer levels, so what you've done isn't a problem at all.
  21. Chopper
    You've got the right 1/8" diameter rivets picked out, but the question is how much pull you need. You'll need more than 1/8" pull for your armor, so you can pass on the short rivets from Home Depot. You should be fine with 1/4" pull rivets from Lowes for most everything with your scout assembly. For backing plates/washers, you want these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Arrow-30-Count-0-131-x-3-8-in-Aluminum-Standard-SAE-Flat-Washers/1087319
  22. Chopper
    Shape, position, fit. It all looks pretty solid. Great job, Jenny.
  23. Chopper
    Congrats...again!
  24. Chopper
    Yes, definitely get the 1/8" diameter aluminum rivets. You don't need steel for the purposes of this costume. As far as material goes, the types of material are primarily specified in Level 2/Lancer. Under Level 1/Basic Clearance it's a bit more general. For Level 2: The back of the belt should be 2" nylon webbing The side straps can be 1.5" white cotton webbing OR 1.5" white elastic as long as the color matches the other strapping. In other words, you shouldn't have bright white elastic side strapping and off white strapping elsewhere. The drop box strapping should be 1.5" white cotton webbing. If you only want to do Level 1 clearance, then the CRL just says "white webbing", "webbing material", or "white textile straps", so you have more options if you want to go that way, as long as it's "white webbing".
  25. Chopper
    It will but, like any other thin plastic, the stress will build up over time and eventually cause cracking. I tend not to kneel on my knee armor and just crouch down when needed.
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