Chopper

Nice. What color did you end up using?

Hi Frank, You seem to have self-identified most of your issues, with your shoulder bells being the biggest item to correct. Also, check your pouches, which are on the wrong sides. The diagonal on the flap should be facing inwards (see photo). Try and adjust the back of your belt. The rear connection, where the straps attach and the det box is fitted, looks skewed to the right. This is also making your boxes sit unevenly. Your boots look ok. Overall pretty good. Just a few adjustments and you should be on your way.

If you have a SC helmet, then you can use the Kropserkel youtube video. For the most part, the assembly is pretty similar:

GML dependent, but as far as basic clearance goes, I think you'll make the minimum cut for basic clearance, provided that you do some adjustments first. I'd also encourage you to replace some parts as well -- Correct, you need elastic to secure the shoulder armor White webbing is all you need to join the chest and back armor -- cotton or synthetic or elastic is fine. Bridge covers look fine. If you want to use off white straps on the drop boxes, then you will also need to use off-white pouches and side straps. Check strapworks or Amazon if you're looking for pure white webbing. If your belt is falling down, then you can help secure it with some velcro on your cod, though that'll have to wait until you get your new soft goods in hand to do so. The rear webbing on your belt should connect with a single rivet on each side -- you have two. You'll need to drill them out and fill with abs paste...or get a new belt. You can get the black belt clips for the det tubing here: https://www.theclip.com/store/metal-belt-clip-661 Consider replacing that snout greeblie and rotator bolts, plus the black border area looks scratched https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Metal-Honeywell-FM4001-Quick-Lok-Adapter/dp/B002BUMS8Y/ref=psdc_7491811011_t1_B015MG1SMK https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html

There isn't a lot to adjust, really. Nice work. Bring your right pouch in a bit. Take the shoulders out a bit more. Bring up your belt. Your belt boxes look like they're kicked forwards a bit. Also, bring up your cod slightly and loosen the strap, so it's not crunching so much.

Sounds good. We'll take a look when you're ready.

Yes, the Strider build is still one of the best Level 2 assembly threads. The CRL has changed slightly in the years since then, so you should still double check it against the current CRL. For example, off the top of my head, I think one of the changes since then was the width of the bridge cover strapping.

As I said, you're already in the ballpark, plus the velcro is adjustable anyhow -- absolute exactness isn't needed here. If you want to get a perfect measurement for fitting the side strapping, then do it with the appropriate underparts fitted as well. In this side shot, some of the bund is under the chest/back armor and side strap. I've trooped quite a bit in my current set of armor and I have not yet experienced excessive or noticeable wear from the hook side velcro getting passed through the slot in the armor.

You're in the ballpark. Since you don't have your bund on, I'd leave enough space to fit that as well. With velcro, it's adjustable, so if you leave enough loop side velcro, you can adjust the strapping a bit more once everything is on.

Those clips will work, yes 👍

Folks are doing it that way, b/c the photo evidence indicates that's how it was done with the production boots. That said, which velcro side is facing inwards on the back of the boots is absolutely not stipulated in the CRL, nor is it something that we look for in Level 2 reviews. If you want to do it the other way around, then you're free to go that route and it's a non-issue.

Out of stock on Amazon, but shipping on the 18th via here: https://www.theclip.com/store/metal-belt-clip-661

For basic clearance it should be fine. For Level 2, the velcro shouldn't go over the top edge like that. Can you trim it?

For basic clearance, what you have is fine as is. For Level 2, they should go all the way through.

@Dart any guidance here?

If you wanted to do Level 2 Lancer in the future, then yes, the Kingshow boot would need to be painted to have a single color "wheat" sole. The first boot you posted would be good for Level 1 and 2.

No prob dude!

Depends -- are you going for Level 1 basic clearance or Level 2 Lancer? Level 2 requires a single colored sole, but for basic clearance you can have the two tone sole, like in the example above. You can use acrylic paints to cover up a two tone sole, but it's easier to just have the single color one to begin with. If you're only going to basic clearance, then the kingshow boot above is fine as well.

The sole color on those looks okay. If you don't mind sharing, what brand are they? Folks recently have had a hard time getting the Kingshow boots with the single color sole, which is why I'm curious.

Hey Arne, that gap def looks okay for filling with ABS paste. And nice work on the ear cuts.

That looks about right.

Shoot for this, if you can --

Drop box position looks good, Ron. Where are your straps joining in the back?

We don't have an exact color code, no. Testors Model Master Navy Aggressor Gray was a good choice in the past, but Testors isn't producing Model Master paints anymore. You're looking for a "medium gray" color. Try to match the color of the helmet decals and the gray on the chest armor indent as best you can. It doesn't need to be an exact, 100% perfect pantone match. Just try to get it close.

Hi Arne. Nice to meet you yesterday. Yes, I think that your earholes look ok!