Chopper

I would look at this thread for a detailed build tutorial: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/ Note that the thread is from 2017, so be careful check any strapping or other requirements against the current CRL: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper

Based on the photos you posted, and taking into account the items you've already identified as needing to add, I do not see any basic clearance issues so far.

The transistor on the handle of prior DVH blasters should normally have a magnet. There might have been a run or two where the handle magnet was not included, but it was normally supposed to have one.

If you know your EU shoe sizing, I've found that to be the most accurate for Imperial Boots fit.

At this time we are allowing either collar type for Level 2/Lancer.

Depending on the sewing machine, you can use a denim or leather sewing needle to punch through the suede + coverall fabric. And if that doesn't work and you have to continue hand sewing, consider getting a metal thimble, which will save your fingers. You can mount the mud flap above the gathered waist, since it will be covered by the bund and belt anyhow.

Thanks for the photo. While I can certainly see the bicep flaring issue on the first photo, I see zero issues with any flare in the second photo. I think switching to velcro has done the trick.

Do you have any photos of the bicep flaring issue while you're wearing the costume?

The CRL has changed as of 1 Aug 2022, but you can still get cleared with the mandarin collar even after the change went into effect.

I suspect that you'd only need to get your new flight suit cleared, rather than going through a full approval, but that will ultimately need to be a local discussion between yourself and the garrison GMLs.

Going for all of that might be overkill. I had the same issue with my kit and I just put some velcro on the front of my flak vest, and also on the inside of my chest armor. It stays in place without any issue.

Go for the Hobart 770580 Face Shield Replacement Lens, available from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VECKRO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're talking about bending the whole det box @shashachu, I can't see that working well and would avoid it. The det tubing tends to curve a bit once you cinch in it with the zip tie. Have you tightening it there yet?

Congrats Brien, great job!

Harbinger is correct. You should use 1/8" diameter pop rivets for the Scout costume.

@StudioCreations that's so much for offering this as a part of your kit. This is a huge help to the scout community.

Whoops! Sorry yes, still hadn't had my coffee. The bicep armor should be at 3 and 9.

You can bring the bicep armor up a bit, where the vest sleeves overlap it slightly. It's fine to have the forearm armor overlap the gloves as well. Generally, the angles of forearm armor should be at the 3 and 9 o-clock positions, left and right, with the forearm armor angled slightly forward, at about the 2 and 11 o-clock positions.

If you're using the welding shield that many of us use, then know that it's pretty heat resistant -- after all, it's for welding! 😁 I didn't have much luck with the hair dryer, so I used a heat gun to help bend mine a bit. Like with all things heat gun related, it does take some finesse to not go too far and melt it though.

Are you talking using heat to bend the replacement visor to better fit the face plate? Or to remove the old visor?

Yeah, the heat gun is a little risky for those who don't have a lot of experience with it. If you've used one a lot and have a good sense of how much is "too much", then yeah, it's a great tool to use.

Looks great

Most people use an elastic strap stitched behind the holster to prevent boot droop, but a few have done what you're describing. Let me check around and see if I can find any photos of it.

I see no issues whatsoever for clearance. I expect that you should get an easy approval.

I've seen those paint cracks on a few Altman helmets before, usually in those exact spots around the visor. I think it's a stress/flex point, which eventually leads to the paint cracking. Finding an exact paint match is tough. You might need to do some tests by painting plastic spoons or something similar, but you can try Rusto Painters Touch 2x semi gloss white or Rusto appliance white to start. With paint cracks like that you may need to do a bit of sanding first, or else it'll just crack the paint again.