Chopper

That's an awesome looking photo shoot. Thanks so much for sharing them.

You have several options: You can cut out part of the "shelf" on the back armor, so you can fit the rivet gun underneath. You won't be able to see the shelf under the tank anyhow. Or you can punch a rivet and washer through some scrap plastic and then cut away the plastic, leaving only the rivet and washer. Then you can glue that onto the tank topper, giving the appearance of it being riveted.

You rivet it from the inside of the tank. The part of the rivet that compresses should be on the tank topper side with the washer. The part of the rivet that breaks off should be on the inside of the tank.

Congrats on your approval.

Yes, a washer is the best way to keep the holster rivets from popping out. Don't worry too much about the brown thread, if you ever want to cover it up, you should be able to do so with a very thin paintbrush and some white acrylic paint.

Thanks Arne, yeah I agree!

This set up looks solid. Yes you can trim a little off the back bridge to bring it into position.

I think you should be just fine for clearance. Good luck!

Some people have used magnets. Others just get those small velcro circles from the hardware store, which will work as well.

I think the 1" overlap is better. Your front photo looks fine, but your back piece is a bit low with no overlap.

Nice work. For basic clearance, nothing major stands out to me. I think you need to raise your butt flap up about 1.5 - 2 inches, but your local garrison may be okay with where it is right now for Level 1.

Congrats!

Looks great. Nice work.

You don't need to overlap them, though that does help when you're trying to fit the armor to your body size. Usually we overlap the shoulder bridge tabs, throw some tape on there, and check the fit. If it's good, you can trim them flush to one another if needed. If you do choose to build it by putting the bridges end to end, then we usually have a strip of velcro on the underside, which keeps them together, but also allows for some flex.

You can see the velcro stitching on the screen costumes. It's not an issue. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/05. Chest Armor/MOTM_10999.jpg Options to keep the codpiece from crumpling involve backing with buckram, or 1/8" foam. Part of the trick is also to make sure it's positioned in front of you when worn, and not pulled through your legs. The KS YouTube video works pretty well as a studio creations assembly guide. If you have any questions while you're building, just ask away and we'll get you sorted.

Looks solid.

Hey Pathfinders! Since the question has been raised a few times, I just wanted to mention that we are currently allowing either the mandarin flap or folded collar types for Level 2/Lancer.

At this time we are allowing either collar type for Level 2/Lancer.

You don't need to remove it. The CRL states you can do either -- mandarin collar flap, or folded collar.

How's it look when you fold it over? Is there enough collar material to fold it over?

Agreed. I've seen varying finishes, depending on the source, but the the helmet from StarWarsHelmets also has a semi-gloss finish.

I would be very careful about adding a layer of clearcoat to your bucket. Clearcoats can react strangely to different solvents, so you might end up with the dreaded crackles, which would leave you having to sand and repaint the entire bucket on your own. As for the det tubing, if you are not able to secure grey colored wiring, then I'd go with a gray acrylic paint, as you won't end up with that forever sticky curing process you're experiencing now.

Hi Jordan. Looks good overall. The only item I can see that *might* be an basic clearance issue is that the top of your butt flap ends below the belt. It might need to get re-stitched higher up, with the top edge under the belt. I would consult with your UK armor to get a read as to whether that will be an issue locally or not. I'd also suggest adding some velcro to keep your bund pulled up. As I said though, overall, looking good.

Congrats!

Note that the blaster is optional for basic approval clearance. Looking at that link -- for only $26 I'm willing to bet that what you receive is not going to look anything like the photo. Just a guess though. Lou, aka DVH, is no longer producing blasters and the person he sold his molds to hasn't started production yet. If you, or a friend, has access to a 3D printer, you can print @MrPoopie's blaster files.