Chopper

Your rivet placement looks fine to me. Also, I did the same reinforcement on my bicep armor too and it has held up well over the years.

Yeah I can see it now, thanks. Looks good.

The photo hosting for the forums is unfortunately limited, since we can't pay for infinite storage space. Most folks use sites like dropbox or imgur to host their photos. See thread linked below.

FYI, the photo of your pouch isn't showing up, Kevin.

I think the 3D printed one fits better and it's a more accurate model than the hyperfirm blaster as well

The strap is not listed in any of the CRLs that include the DLT-19 or 19X, so officially it's not allowed. There are times when, as Retrofire says, the local GML or Commander may authorize you using a strap. So if your GML and Commander are okay with using a strap on your DLT for trooping events, then you're okay to do so.

Yeah that's the way I did it. Sticky velcro on the plastic parts and the non-stick velcro sewn onto the strapping.

Attaching fabric to plastic with glue doesn't always work so well, as you've discovered. The fabric usually just absorbs most of the glue and the bond isn't great. Most folks use the adhesive velcro type, which works fine as long as the surface is clean and smooth. What part are you trying to attach the velcro to?

How are you thinking of securing the flap, if not by velcro?

Hi Nathan, initial approval for 501st costumes is through your garrison membership liaison, also called a GML. I would reach out to yours via email and they can help guide you through the steps for entry to the 501st. Looks like the contact info is here: GML -- Timothy J Boyle(TB 7079), FL501STGML@gmail.com https://www.501st.com/members/garrisonroster.php?garrisonId=9 You might also want to sign up for their forums as well: https://www.fl501st.com/boards/index.php

Thanks Lou, yeah I think that material would work just fine in black for the flak vest.

We don't really ever see the vest super clearly in the film or production photos, which is why it's not very specific in the CRL: "black, matte finish, heavy weight cotton fabric." Canvas is made from cotton, so it would depend on what you're working with. Do you have any photos of the material you're looking to use? And as a note about the bund material, the CRL for level 2 states: "Polished cotton or mercerized cotton is preferred. Canvas or duck cloth is not permitted."

The 1/8" measurement is not for the flange, it's the center indent portion. There was a period where certain vendors were including rivets that had gigantic flanges, so, as a result we had to include the proper rivet size in the CRL. This might help:

The visor doesn't have to flip up 90s degrees. We never see them flipped up on screen so there's no standard for it. I think mine *can* go up to 90 degrees but i rarely ever bring it up more than 45, like if I need to drink water or something, and I don't ever try to lock it in place. The rotator bolts are a major stress point on the plastic, especially when the visor is flipped up, so I try to avoid it if I can. The top edge of the face plate should not rub against the top of the helmet, there should be enough clearance for it to move up cleanly. The WTF is going to be it's own thing in terms of dimensions, but you can get a sense of what the screen helmets looked like from the top, here:

Hey Pete, yeah usually folks either trim that lip at bit and fit it into the slot, or they trim the edge off entirely and glue it in place. Either works and the exterior end result is the same. Same with affixing the front end. I believe SC uses rivets, but others use a permanent bond cement, like the Oatey ABS cement, to glue it in place.

Nice work, Kevin. Your overlap in the back looks like it's more than it needs to be? Hard to tell without a straight on photo of the back. It should be about centered in the back and the overlap should be 1", which corresponds to the velcro strip.

I don't see the red label currently listed on the RS website, just the ABS one, so you may need to ask them via email if it's still offered.

If you get the all abs helmet from RS, then that one will be lighter. There's also their red label helmet, which has a fiberglass back section, similar to how the mon cal helmet uses a rotocast back section. I believe you want option 1 for the suede.

Kevin, I'm really sorry but I'm having a hard time understanding what you're trying to check? Can you please clarify? What is supposed to be 5" from the edge of the hole? You're already using paper to make your pattern, so you can always get your pattern close, suit up, put your boot on, wrap the paper around the boot and make small sizing and fitting tweaks from there. That's what I did when I built my boots.

Thank you for the review, Frank. Always nice to have a non-leather option available. Question: did Gio add the air holes in the palm? Or did you request that special? I can't recall those being on his earlier scout gloves?

How far over is the attachment tab in the back, once you've tightened it to fit? It should ideally be generally be close to centered, but it doesn't need to be perfectly centered.

Nice, looks better. I should note that your bund looks a little loose though. Have you done the velcro in back yet, or are you still getting it fit and adjusted?

The first item to get into place is the belt. As a rough guideline I usually tell people to find your belly button and then put the top edge of the belt just below that. Is that about where yours is? Your belt looks a little high, but you tell me where it's sitting on you. The bottom edge of the bund sits on top of the belt, so once you get the belt positioned right, it's a lot easier to adjust the other parts of the costume.

Yes, you could hand sew it. It's black on black, so not very visible from more than a foot away. Just make sure to start your hand stitching before the machine stitching ends, so it doesn't become unravelled. But first, give it a try on, once your cod and bund are finished.

Not a big deal to adjust. If you unpick just the upper top edges of the riding patches, then you can cut a curve in them a bit and you'll be good. But before you do that, how does it look when you're wearing it? That photo looks like it's on a table?