Chopper

Folks, just a reminder that build threads are meant to be a conversation between the armorers and the person working on the build. I've moved and merged the posts about mic and audio set up into Dennis' original thread, here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21922-ukswrath-audio-rs-bucket/#comment-226233

There's no firm rule for it. Rough guidance is that the bicep elastic part should be just below the lower edge of a properly fitted flak vest sleeve and about halfway between the bottom of your shoulder bell and the bend in your arm.

That detail only shows up on the commercially available Don Post scout helmets from the 1990s. It shouldn't be used on any scout armor or helmet for 501st approval.

Yes, that tank topper is too big. I suggest you get a replacement one from Studio Creations: https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html

You should be good to submit with your last round of photos.

Looks much better.

My helmet is from Strider. Not many were made, though I have an RS on the shelf as well. There are a number of options if you're looking for a helmet. You can peruse some of the makers in this thread:

Hey Bro. Yeah if you don't want to go for the accurate 3M bolts, since they're for set pieces, then the steel piece you have in the photo should be fine. That's basically what the SC helmets come with out of the box too.

Congrats Vanguard!

Ah, that was not clear in the photos you posted. The angle is funny, but I can't see a big issue with the thickness of the ear for basic. There's no ear hole at all though? It's just flat? If so, then yes, that's going to be an issue and you'll need to carefully cut and sand the ear holes out of the print.

The trapezoids on the upper rear of the helmet will need to get filled in. Also the indents above the eyeslot and below the eyeslot will need to get filled in as well. Those are meant to be decals, not indented details. 😁 From the photos you've posted, the rest of the helmet seems ok. Once properly finished.

Urgh. What you're seeing is likely stress cracks from the faceplate getting forced to bend to the shape of the jowls of the bucket. You can try using a small drill bit and drilling a hole at the end of the crack and then filling the crack with putty. You can also try gluing some abs as a reinforcement on the interior. That won't keep it from cracking again, but it might keep the crack from continuing further.

You are correct that the codpiece will need to be redone, I'd say even for basic clearance. As you mentioned, the arc needs to be higher and the general shape needs some refining. Note in the photo below how the sides curve on the edges, vs being more straight. Also you might need to add some foam or batting to the interior of the cod. I would recommend putting in stirrups before taking the pant legs in more. Less work on your part. Most people do use hot glue to affix the lens to the face plate. The hot glue is not used as an adhesive between the face plate and the lens, if that's what you did before. Just put down a layer of hot glue over the edge of the lens and onto the face plate, usually along the left and right sides. Once the glue dries it holds the lens in place.

There are a few vendors for finished flight suits out there. If you want US based, there's @Chrisx909x on these forums. There's also KriptonTop on Etsy who ships from S. America. There's also Chef's Creations in the UK.

Congrats

Congrats!

Good luck

You want to use the one on the left. The aerator on the right has numerous inaccuracies and I would not expect it to clear approval.

Most people either use tactical padding inside the helmet, or they use a hard hat helmet headband. I have not heard about anyone specifically using WS Custom Helmet Liners, but that doesn't mean they might not work just as well.

The Kropserkel helmet assembly is very similar to the Studio Creations helmets assembly. There's a video you can use, here:

I wouldn't try grinding down the post. I'd check with your GML to see if they're okay with it. If not, you can always use a cobalt tip drill bit to drill out the rivet and try the inner washer suggestion. Regarding pouches, where is your belt sitting? I usually tell folks to find their navel, and then put the top edge of the belt just under the navel. Is that where yours is?

With your stated sizing, you might want to go with custom tailoring. There are a few options out there -- @Chrisx909x is US based, and there's also KriptonTop on Etsy, who will ship via FedEx from Bolivia. Both vendors have been used by many approved scouts over the years.

What if you use the same size and put an additional washer on the inside of the tank?

The stub on the track topper rivet is allowed, though I would have recommended a rivet with a smaller pull. The tank topper can be riveted either way, though the photos from the magic of the myth exhibit ndicate that it was done as you have.

Have you tried contacting @bikerchick for a replacement?