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Chopper

Command Staff
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Everything posted by Chopper

  1. If you're talking about the 2" strapping, that should be pure white in all instances of the ROTJ scout.
  2. You will be fine by going with Chef. The Keep Trooping/Imperial Boots gloves are fine as well. Correct, the neck seal is still optional and yes, Darman is the vendor most folks have used for cloth neck seals.
  3. Agreed, that sole color looks good. Thanks for the heads up, Chris.
  4. Congrats!
  5. There is no official pantone color for the scout armor, though I wouldn't go with "off-white". Even the ABS used by the vendors will vary. Generally, I recommend looking for what's typically termed "appliance white" at the hardware store.
  6. You got your kit from Mon Cal, correct? We don't have many clear close up photos of that particular greeb on screen, but we do know that it's the same as part of the endor trooper badge. The examples I've seen of that particular det greeb, including from RS Props, Studio Creations, and others, all have the cylinder on the right. I'm not sure about the original issue with the CRL model, but other pathfinders have the Strider/CfO armor, which is what's depicted, and the greebs that come with it have the cylinder on the right side of the greeb. Detachment staff will address this inconsistency as a part of our annual CRL review. I do not foresee this being an issue for Level 1/Basic clearance. It would be an issue for Level 2/Lancer clearance. Mon Cal's detonator is already listed as not passing Level 2/Lancer, so we can give a heads up there as well, after we discuss any CRL updates: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/ If you want to pick up a right side cylinder greeblie, you can get one from Studio Creations: https://studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html
  7. Ron, if you want to post some photos, please do so and we can take a look.
  8. Sounds good
  9. How asymmetrical are we talking here? The original Scout helmets, being hand sculpted, were also somewhat asymmetrical as well.
  10. You'll need 1/8" diameter aluminum pop rivets, 1/8" aluminum backing plates, and a pop rivet gun. Use the CRL to align the holster on your boot. Use a pencil to mark where the rivets go. Use a drill to dril 1/8" holes. Use a pencil to mark the hole placement on the boots, then you can use a pointed punch, or sharp exact blade to make a hole. Feed the rivet through the holster and boot leather. Place a backer plate on the inside, and then pop the rivet using the pop-rivet gun. If you don't have a pop-rivet gun and don't anticipate using one again in the future, you may be able to borrow one from a garrison mate.
  11. Your dropbox and belt positioning looks fine. I used snaps to attach my drop box straps in the back, but if you want to use a rivet, go for it. Just don't forget the backer plate so it doesn't pull through the fabric. For the shoulder bridge covers, the hot glue adhesive will probably work for a little while, but you should plan to replace it with something more permanent in the future. I would not trim any more off the bottom of the chest armor. Your shoulder bells appear to be in the right ballpark. Good call on waiting to trim any more until you have your flak vest finished.
  12. Bonjour, il est très difficile de voir votre costume sur les photos ci-jointes. Avez-vous des photos d'ensemble plus claires ?
  13. There is a slight downward angle on the front of the visor, which is also evident on the screen helmets, below. I would not touch the sides of the visor shroud/upper part. It looks trimmed about right. The face plate/lower part needs to be trimmed more. You want to have a more direct line on the side from the visor shroud to the bottom of the side of the face plate.
  14. FYI, no photos are displaying in the thread.
  15. Feel free to share any submission photos if you'd like. We're happy to offer feedback.
  16. Feel free to do so and we'll take a look.
  17. I think that's a good call.
  18. In general, the goods you have should be fine for basic approval. In the end, and you obviously know this, but it's all going to depend on how it fits once you put everything on.
  19. Congrats! A pathfinder first!
  20. The front looks great. In the back you need to bring your drop back straps closer together. Check and compare with the CRL photo, below:
  21. Just a word of caution to be careful with repeatedly popping the visor all the way up and down. The area around the rotator bolts is a strain point and eventually the plastic will crack there after repeated use.
  22. Your pouch position looks about right. I do want to note that the velcro stitch marks in the dead center of the bund is a bit concerning to me. For approval, that strip will likely need to be unpicked and steamed to remove the indent. For your cod, it's meant to sit flat on the front of your body, so you will definitely need to put some sort of stiffening material or fabric behind it.The strap doesn't need to be tight, but it shouldn't be sagging either. When the cod has something rigid to maintain it's shape, then it doesn't crumple as much from the strap.
  23. Check this post for all kinds of tips. Velcro is your friend.
  24. Also, don't forget 1/8" aluminum backing plates or your rivets will just pull through.
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