BikerScout007

You can start doing the 2 rights ASAP. The circles facing front was only ever a Level 2 requirement. So for basic it doesn't matter. Thanks for checking in, Jeff!

Just a reminder to you and anyone else going for L2 -- there's a six month grace period on CRL changes, so you can apply under the old standard until January!

You'll want to use 3mm (or 1/8) small head rivets. Similar to these: You can see them in action here: There is one instance where the rivet washer was put on the outside of the costume, which I think led to a lot of folks buying large head rivets and using them all over the costume, which would be incorrect: But as you can see here -- small head rivets were used throughout

Oh we're not done yet! We get a bigger one coming up. Hold onto your butts!

Return edge looks great. Many of the Scout armor pieces had return edges in the film. You can see the return edge on the forearm here

Discovering the model kit this part came from was the real impetus here. We have to thank @RS Prop Masters for that.

If you've already cleared basic you're fine. 501st costumes are grandfathered in unless the costume is retired and a new approval is sought with it. If you apply for Lancer within the next 6 months, you will be fine. And remember, even after we add the requirement, it will only apply to L2.

Agreed! I believe @MrPoopie has modeled some for printing!

Hey Jordan! Glad to see you made a WIP. We'll be happy to see you through your build. If you are looking for ROTJ production references, look no further than the Scoutopedia: http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

Hey Pathfinders and soon-to-bes! Today we removed the "T-bit circle detail piece faces forward on each arm" requirement from Level 2. This was a requirement I was never a big fan of, as it seemed more based on wanting to tidy up the costume rather than any evidence from the film. With the discovery by @RS Prop Masters of the original kit bashed source of the T-bit this year, as well as some sleuthing by @Chopper of screen caps, we have determined that it only makes sense that the circles on the T-bit only appear on the right hand side of the greeblie, no matter which bicep they are on. (Tamiya 16039 Harley Davidson FXE1200 (Super Glide) 1/6 scale model kit) (ROTJ Screen cap showing the left bicep armor. The ridges are along the bottom, which means the circles -- which are hard to see here -- would be on the right hand side of the greeblie, not the left. And yes, we checked to make sure the image wasn't flipped in editing) Here's a few more. They always weathered the circles, so you can see them by looking for the weathering: And from the "Was staring us in the face the whole time" file, here's the Blu Ray archive image. You can see clearly that the circles are NOT on the left side of the left bicep armor: Now before anyone gets into a panic -- we are not requiring both circles on the right side for L2 YET. We want to give the armor makers the time to get adjusted. So don't expect to see this become part of the CRL for a few months. If you have mirrored T-bits now and are getting ready to apply for Lancer, go right ahead! You have a 6 month grace period from today. @MonCal @StudioCreations @rottie @TD369 @sskunky @Chef

Hey Adeta! Welcome to the forum. It's not often we see an Inception studios kit so this will be interesting for all of us! I've seen that tube missing from many kits, that's not that unusual and as you note, it can easily be remedied Those teeth always looked like a zip tie to me, but I'll tag @KOtrooper and @Minimo to see if they know. Both greebs are available as 3d files, if you have access to a printer: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/27klw0a6voyqbtr/AABH9VRmlPF55oWzP2-Kr3KWa?dl=0

That's from the rigid body of the hiking boots they used as a base. If your boots are in the ball park of the screen used, you'll be fine!

Hey Juan! Since you are treating this thread as a WIP, I have moved it to the appropriate section of the forum. Good luck with your build!

Okay here's the thing about the boots (and yup this is a hot take so get ready). THE BOOTS AREN'T SUPPOSED TO BE SMOOTH ACROSS THE TOE. I know, I know -- heads are exploding right now. But here's the thing -- perfectly smooth toes are a result of us costumers using hiking boots with rounded toes as base boots. But the movie scouts didn't use hiking boots -- they used Sierra Sneakers -- which are a weird sneaker/hiking boots hybrid. They have a hiking boot base, but the shoe itself is pretty squishy. Like a sneaker. So if you look at the boots in the film (and you can easily see screenshots in the Scoutopedia), you'll see that the toes have a decent amount of wrinkle to them: So toes with wrinkle similar to the film are perfectly fine by me. If they are overly wrinkled, they will probably get turned down by the GML, so bear that in mind. Folks normally stretch out the toe vinyl with thumbtacks and either a hairdryer or heatgun. It's a process so be patient!

Me too bud, so we'll find a way to make it work!

Pretty much what I meant.

It's a desperate tactic, for sure, but if that's the only pair you have, that's the only pair you have. I assume a return is out of the question?

I see -- it's like a moccasin toe? I'm wondering if that seam can be removed somehow -- like maybe you literally cut it off and then close up the gap with tape or glue?

Can you shoot us a picture or a link to the boots? Is this something you think would show after the covers were applied?

Building on top of what Dennis said, I don't believe there are any references of a Scout using a DLT with a wood stock, so on our end, it would have to be black.

In the last few years, some of it due to 3D printing, there's been an explosion of people selling armor kits online, and some are better than others. Looking at the kit you posted, there's not much you can really do with it that's going to make it approvable for the 501st. Some of the pieces may be salvageable, but given that it's fiberglass, it may be tough to work with it and probably more trouble than it's worth. And even if you kept a few of the better pieces, it would probably be tough to sell the ones that need work if you aren't selling a whole kit. Keep in mind -- everyone who buys Star Wars armor is not trying to be in the 501st. Some people just want a kit for cosplay, conventions, or even Halloween. I would try to sell it on ebay or something -- being honest that the kit is not 501st approvable, and then pick up a kit from one of our approved vendors: We have all made mistakes like this, don't feel bad. The best thing to take from this is it's important to slow down, do your research and make buying decisions based on the best information.

Weathering is looking great! And in the mean time, I have upgraded your account to 501st status. Welcome, Trooper!

**** Congratulations to Dennis, TB 60446 of @501stgarrisoncarida for being the Trooper of the Month for April 2022. Dennis upholds the high costuming standards of the Legion, with extreme attention to detail and works as a mentor for new members by helping others build and maintain their costumes with the same level of attention to detail he gives his own. In April, he organized and created a video for a terminally ill fan who was too ill to receive a visit from the garrison in person. Thank you Dennis for being an amazing example of #BadGuysDoingGood Well done trooper! **** In addition to the official announcement from the Legion, I'd just like to add that we all know Dennis to be a helpful member of the Detachment, always eager to greet new recruits and get them on their way. We're glad to now have him as a member of the Armory Team. Well done, @AradunFF!

If you ever decide to go for L2, the pouches need to be the standard size.

My favorite touch is that you made the zipper area real instead of fake like on the Wampa Wear gloves. Very well done indeed!