Aradun

Great to see you back at it again! Looks like things are coming along. You’re already on correcting the bund. If you can post pics of the holster and boot so the armory team can better see the issue you noted. Can you post some additional photos of your tank too? It could just be the photo, but the pin striping looks a little off and the tank topper looks a little large for the new tank. The pinstripe should be laid out as seen below:

Looks like @PropReplicator2 was working on a model of the blaster back in ‘18. See if he ever completed it.

Before you model one yourself, touch base with the other Rebel Scouts. I swear I saw one holding a proper Rebels blaster in his action shot.

You don’t want anything resembling off white so I’d avoid any cute funny names like blossom white, etc. You’re looking for something along the lines of an appliance white in a gloss or semi-gloss finish.

I’m not surprised Iron! Like I said this is going to be great build thread for fellow Scouts and I’m def keeping in mind that Boba build of yours. He’s my fav next to the Scout and a def bucket list build for me. Keep it coming!

Excellent work all around and congrats on the shiny new sewing rig! The only thing I’d grab if you don’t already have one is a seam ripper for when you do need to remove stitching. https://www.amazon.com/Rippers-Remover-Unpicker-Ergonomic-Patterns/dp/B07YFSX6YF/ Another easy way to prevent fraying on elastic is to apply a lighter to the cut edge. Hold the elastic over the flame just close enough to melt the plastic and voila … no fraying. You’re work and documentation are superb. Your WIP will help a lot of scouts down the line. Keep it up! AND I love that PASGT system! Great recommendation!

I agree with Harbinger 100%. V2 looks amazing. Nicely weathered. Excellent work!

I planned to use elastic laces for my build, but took BikerScout007’s advice to leave them unlaced and I’ve had no issues. I did not put any E6000 over the laces covered by the toe cap or the boot shaft which allows me to tighten them a little if needed, but it is very rare, and I can still tie them if I want, but tbh there’s really no need, as long as the boot base fits your foot well.

In addition to the great link above, RS Propmasters walks you through it in their assembly video below. FF to the 6 minute mark and he walks you through attachment to the boot.

Make sure to test spray first if your gonna spray outdoors in the 50s. Most spray paints recommend a minimum temp of 65. If it’s too cold, the paint will start to dry before it hits the armor creating a very rough texture. That happened once on some amor I was working on, and the temp was in the low 60s. It created quite the mess. I needed to sand all the paint off, and wait for a little warmer temp.

Using a regular hot glue gun should be fine. The glue shouldn’t be an issue for the ABS or lens. If your glue gun does have a setting then you can set it so that it’s just hot enough for the glue to disperse. Mine does not, and I’ve used it to mount my lens to my ABS faceplate on two occasions without issue. Of course you don’t want to press the tip of the gun against the ABS to be safe.

Great mods! Nice adjustment with the addition of material to raise the back armor above the tank. Things are really coming along. I see that your tank top has a recessed area for the tank topper to sit in. I’m tagging @Chopper to see if that too needs to be filled in so that the topper can be mounted to a flat top or if it’s okay as is.

You’re making great progress on that bucket Bill. Looks good.

Nicely done, Bill.

I use 3D printed inserts from MrPoopie. They’re excellent and allow me to pack my pouches with stickers, trading cards, and half the garrison’s car keys lol. If you want to go the 3D printed route PM MrPoopie about his files.

Great to see you back John. The photos of the finished blaster on Etsy aren’t the best resolution so it’s tough to see details, but parts of it look a little off. The shape of the scope is definitely off and so is the shape of the butt stock. If you compare it to the photo in the CRL you’ll see where the differences are. https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:Generic-dlt19x.jpeg I would also inquire of the seller the overall length of the prop to make sure it’s close to accurate. The original was 1219 mm or just shy of 48.” Overall, I don’t think it would be an issue to get approved by your GML. However, a couple of tips if you get this particular model. If you’re going to go with the 19X don’t get the model that has both the scope and bipod. That won’t pass. The 19X doesn’t have a bipod so just get the scope version. Also when finishing the model make sure that the stock, grips, and the cooling fins have no weathering. The stock and grips were Bakelite and the fins were rubber.

Hey Benjamin! Welcome to the PFD! You’ll be in good hands with our Shore Trooper armorers, @KOTrooper and @Minimo . Be sure to reach out if you have any questions!

I think it’s relatively new. The earliest reference I’ve been able to find in the 3D printing community is 2021 and it looks like Amazon did not begin to carry it until September of that year. With TPU being the standard go to and its greater flexibility, it probably hasn’t gotten much traction, which may be why it’s availability is so limited outside the US. Being PLA it has the same issues as PLA in regard to absorbing moisture so it needs to be stored in dry locations, and the filament can stretch if it is pulled, creating issues while printing. And while the base components of PLA are known and pose little risk when printing, the chemical additives companies use to make the PLA flexible are unknown so its safety for printing indoors at home is unknown as well.

The link above wasn’t working for me. Here’s an alternative just in case. https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Metal-Honeywell-FM4001-Quick-Lok-Adapter/dp/B002BUMS8Y/ref=psdc_7491811011_t1_B015MG1SMK

Nice work on those patches and vest Dom! Keep up the great work!

You look good brother! I don’t see anything that would pose an issue for basic clearance. Good luck and keep us posted!

For the leather riding patches, the best way to sew them is by machine and to do that you need to seem rip the outer leg. Cut your patches. You’ll have 4 pieces (two front and two back). I didn’t document this part in my build thread, but I sewed the back patches together where they join in the middle and then pinned the rear patches to the suit and ran it through the machine. For the front I sewed each front patch to the rear where the seam forms between the legs then pinned the patch to the front and ran it through the machine. My front patches are not connected to each other where they meet above the crotch. That was done so that I can access the lower zipper of the suit and it’s covered by the cod piece anyway, so it’s not visible. Now, don’t do all that like I did and forget to insert your 2” elastic bands around the leg, other wise you’re seam ripping again to slide the straps in. Once finished turn the suit inside out and then when sewing up the outer leg again, be sure to give it a nice taper from the foot opening up to right around the waist. I used a yard stick, came in an 1” or so at the foot and ran a diagonal line to the waist. Just make sure you are using a needle in your machine designed for either denim or leather. The latter is better, but the former will do. For your mud flap - if your suit is like mine and doesn’t have an elastic waist in the back, you can sew the flap right on the top of waist line. If it is elastic, then add length to your flap and sew it about an 1” - 1.5” above the elastic portion. The added length above the waist won’t be visible with the belt and bund.

Amazon carries it in various brands with prices ranging from mid 20s to mid 30s USD. https://www.amazon.com/FLASHFORGE-Flexible-Printer-Filament-Spool/dp/B09V7HXGKR/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1GSE5SEQAK59N&keywords=fpla&qid=1704498941&sprefix=fpla%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-4

Perfect! Looks like you’re good to go. Thanks!

The links aren’t working currently. If you’re using Google Photos, make sure your sharing/permissions are properly set.