KOtrooper

PLA has a lower melt point than PETG or ABS so just don't leave it in your car on a hot day. I'd reinforce any stress points with fiberglass or glue nylon webbing inside the armor. Personally, I like working with PETG now over PLA. The PVC glue I use bonds really nice and the entire thing sands well. My E22 is PLA and I cracked it once. Very easy to fix and hide the break. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

It's so fun. You'll have mistakes but that's all part of the process of learning. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

Yeah, I'd print it at .3. For the greeblies, I'd print as detailed as you can. Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

For sure, get a sewing machine. The sewing for the Biker Scout is pretty easy and very easy to fix mistakes. The soft parts for the Shoretrooper is a little trickier but doable (even Level 2). I personally have a Brother SE400 and have been happy with it.

Fantastic! Looks great!

In addition to Joe's excellent advice, for the masking I've used liquid latex and mustard. Both work great. Go light on the masking for chipping. The bulk of the weathering is from sandpaper, scratching, and dabbing the black/umber acrylic paint.

I used a $5 soldering iron from harbor freight and yeah, just kinda melted the two sides together. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

I did fiberglass too. I've experimented with plastic welding and I'm liking that too. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Incredibly sad. Buckets off.

I use a wireless mic in my bucket, aker amp in my chest, and the two go between a TK Talkie for sound effects. Works well for me.

I'd recommend PLA+ or PETG. On high stress parts of the armor, you might want to try putting some fiberglass on the backside. Don't worry about printing in high detail for larger parts. Doing a .3 vs. .2 layer height will be faster and look just the same.

Looking great! Doing the fiberglass is easier than you think. Just wear a good respirator (and other PPE) and have good airflow.

I'm a fan of just a tank top under the Shoretrooper shirt. It gives you a bit of welcomed airflow.

Looks great! Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Looking great. Bummer about the Toyota Red. The can I got went down very nice. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Padding on the cheeks is the best way to solve it. Here's inside my bucket. You can see the padding velcroed under the lens. It'll take a bit of adjusting to get it right but once it's set, it's a very comfortable fit. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

For my shoulder bell attachments, I 3D printed some zip tie anchors. Sewed them to nylon webbing that had Velcro on the back. Added a dab of e6000 for extra hold. Glued another anchor on the bell. This method, ideally, gives me some freedom to the bell placement if needed. The elastic straps just have a small strip of Velcro that connects to the fuzzy Velcro under the shoulder armor. Hopefully it holds up. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

I did a few test fittings. I pulled in the straps just past where they are taught. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

I think I'm done with the flight suit. Not the easiest task to modify but so much easier and faster than carving the boots. For all of the sewing on this costume, I'm proud to say I didn't break a single sewing needle! Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Proportions look great!

Ok, that's what I thought and measured. I'll move forward with this placement. Thanks! Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Riding patches are sewn on. Is this a good spot for the elastic strap? Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Did loads of measurements and tests before I cut. Hopefully this all goes well on the first go around. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

But that's part of the fun! Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Technically they are rounded. I didn't pin them that well to the inside seam. Now that the outside shape is better, I'll work on the inside pattern. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk