Chopper

We don't have an exact color code, no. Testors Model Master Navy Aggressor Gray was a good choice in the past, but Testors isn't producing Model Master paints anymore. You're looking for a "medium gray" color. Try to match the color of the helmet decals and the gray on the chest armor indent as best you can. It doesn't need to be an exact, 100% perfect pantone match. Just try to get it close.

Hi Arne. Nice to meet you yesterday. Yes, I think that your earholes look ok!

Hey Brett, Nice work so far. The first two things that stand out to me are the rotator bolts, which should be flat, with a slight indent in the center. https://databank.501st.com/mw501/images/9/97/Bolt1.jpg And the aerator mesh on the snount piece shouldn't have holes in it. That part was actually just a sink nozzle with mesh screen material, so while there was a screen pattern on the cast surface, there weren't any holes. See references below. I noticed that you haven't sculpted the back portion yet, but we're happy to take a look at that whenever you're ready. Since you're using the starwarshelmets website references, have you looked through the helmet photos here yet? http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php @Retrofire @BikerScout007 @Dart -- anything on your end?

We aren't that particular about the internal rigging of the scout. Do what works best for you, and still looks correct from the outside.

Yes, I used snaps connecting both drop box straps to the webbing. You just can't see the right one b/c it's under the connected halves. Some people choose to sew their drop box straps on, but I like snaps b/c sometimes my straps get tangled and I can just pop the ends off and untwist them. Yeah, the two halves of my rear webbing just velcroes to itself, one over the other.

You mean like this? You can ignore the velcro on the very back, I had tried that to hold my detonator on more securely, but in the end I didn't end up needing it.

I'd try and center it between the edge of the box and the edge of the belt. That's correct. Using only a single rivet there is a definite stress point, and, left unsupported, it will likely break or crack over time. I used longer webbing and velcroed mine on the inside, though I don't think that step was really necessary. Glue would work as well.

The number of indents on the back of the helmets varied. Some had seven indents, such as the helmet RS bought. Some had eight, which is the version you're looking at in the photo. Either is acceptable. The Salomon helmet is very good as far as 3D helmets go. But if you're looking for closer screen matched accuracy, then you might want to look at some of the non 3D vendors.

No back cover is required.

Looks good. Barely noticeable.

I like what you did there. Nice work.

I think you'll be fine if you center the rivet.

Anything that isn't outwardly visible on the costume is totally personal preference. I velcroed my webbing inside the belt. Honestly though, I've never had a reason to remove or adjust it, so it was probably overkill at the time of my initial build. Others have glued theirs in and that's fine as well.

Yes, using only a single rivet is a known stress point. If you're talking about the plastic part of the belt, no it's not necessary. Just fold over the webbing and stitch it onto itself. On the back side, I used snaps to attach the rear drop box straps to the 2" webbing in the back for that same reason. Also, if the straps get tangled or twisted, it makes for an easy fix. (This is an older photo, so I don't recommend using velcro to keep your detonator box on -- I abandoned that idea early in my trooping life.) Others have sewn or used a rivet to attach their drop back straps to the 2" webbing.

What scouts choose to do locally is between them and their local garrison. For your shoulder bells, I'd actually let them out another 1/2" and see how it looks.

I would be very cautious about doing a wire transfer. When sending funds via wire transfer, once the funds are sent they cannot be recovered.

You'd need to add a mechanical stop where it rotates, so that it isn't able to open high enough to hit the dome. I don't know the internals of this helmet well enough to say how to add this feature though.

That plate was added in order to reinforce the join between the two halves of the abs visor. With a 3D printed part, there is no practical reason for you needing to have it. As you say, it's not required at any level, but if you want to add it for purely aesthetic reasons, then there's nothing stopping you from doing so.

Generally, it would be about 1/2" to 3/4"

Arne, I have never heard about anyone using magnets or hooks to keep their bund and chest armor in place. Velcro is the most common method, though some have used button snaps as well. In the end, as long as it's not visible, it doesn't matter what method you use, so long as it works.

The corners are going to be underneath the bridge covers anyhow, so it's not a problem to round out that corner edge on the shoulder bridges. Mine wrap all the way around and then secures to itself, while Kayelbe's appears to connect to the velcro on the underside of the bridge. Either way will work.

That's a personal rigging preference -- it is not required. Use it if you think it would be helpful when putting your gear on. We don't have any publicly available photos of what went under the cod or bund, so we don't know if the film suits had them or not.

Hmm that's a pretty big break on the corner. You've got a lot of rivets on the back -- maybe too many. I don't think you need the washer between the holster and the boot, or the extra large washer. You really just want a washer there to offload the compression on the plastic when the rivet s installed as well as to keep it from pulling through the vinyl. You can probably splint the holster by gluing a piece of styrene behind the break with Devcon plastic weld. It might hold for a wile, though once something in a high stress area cracks, it's really hard to rig up a permanent fix.

Yeah that looks about right. Stick with that until you get the rest of the kit fitted.

Hi Pat, can you show me a photo of the outside stress area as well as the inside part of the boot as well?