Chopper

I put some velcro on the ends of the cover, so that I could close it on the bottom of the shoulder bridge.

Yes, for Level 1/Basic Clearance, a 1.5" bridge cover is fine.

You did a really solid job with the boot construction. My only real concern is the amount of pebbled texture on the vinyl -- this is something that's come up recently in a few builds. And to be clear, that's not a basic clearance issue, it's more to do with Level 2. But yeah, that's the only real item that I can see. I'd encourage you to keep going with your build for basic clearance and you can worry about that sort of thing later.

Hi Scot, thank you for your patience. The Level 2 Review Team has gone over your application and we have the following notes: Preliminary Note: This application appears to use photos from different dates as a part of the submission. Linking to a WIP is fine, but when submitting for Level 2/Lancer, it is expected that all application photos reflect the current state of the armor. For example, in some photos there are 4x rank bars, in others 6x rank bars? In some photos the dropbox webbing is twill tape, in others it's webbing? In some photos the bicep greebs are facing the correct direction, in others they are reversed? Please update your application photos to depict the current state of your armor and then we can continue your review. Flight Suit It is difficult to see how the riding patches fit due to the lighting. When you re-take the photos, please try to take them outdoors or with better lighting. Shoulder Armor Measurements indicate 3/8" elastic on the shoulder armor. The CRL calls for 1/2" elastic. Upper Arm Armor Dressing note -- some photos have the arm armor on backwards. The circles on the greebs should face forwards. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/07. Arm Armor/Blu Ray bicep.jpg Our DL mentioned that you broke your bicep armor recently? The damaged armor will need to be repaired/replaced in order to proceed with the application. Gloves The gloves in your app don't appear to match any makers that we are aware of -- are you certain that they came from Wampa? The suede patches on the Fingers and thumb differ from photos of the Esprit, Wampa, or Imperial Boots gloves. The suede finger patches come all the way to the ribs, which is incorrect. Also, the thumb patch is too small. https://wampawear.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Glovewhite.jpg Were the suede patches replaced or repaired at some point? Back Armor Some photos depict 4x rank stripes. In others there are 6x rank stripes. How is it configured currently on your armor? Also, for the 6x stripes, the bottom two stripes don't look like they're the same thickness as the others. If the intent is to go with 6x rank stripes, then all of the stripes should be the same thickness. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/06. Back Armor/ROTJ pouches tank.jpg http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/07. Arm Armor/Arm Armor 1.jpg Tank topper is oversized and the "button" in the upper right is extremely oversized when compared to the original. The actual prop used the same circular greeb as was used on the detonator. The greeb in your application is much larger. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/06. Back Armor/Tank greeblie.jpg Pouches Dressing note -- move pouches inwards slightly, maybe 1/2" to 3/4" on each side. Belt Drop straps are too close together where connected in back. Should put approximately a 1" space in between them. The parachute buckles are sitting too close to the belt -- they need to be centered on their respective strap Drop straps look like twill tape, instead of webbing in some photos? But in other photos they're webbing? How is it configured currently? Detonator The det tubing is small and the end caps are oversized with a deep indent that differs from the production/CRL photos. The det box is symmetrical, which is not allowed for Level 2, and will need to be replaced. Boots Dogbone is glued to the side of the sole -- moreso on the right inside, but it's overlapping a bit on the left outside as well. It will need to be trimmed so, as per the CRL, it does not overlap the toe strip and sole on both sides. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/12. Boots and Holster/MOTM_22523.jpg We only have application photos of the left outside boot and the right inside boot. Please provide photos of the other sides. Holster The thickness of the cut outs in holster are too large. They will need to get filled with ABS paste and then re-cut. They shouldn't be any wider than a razor saw or thin dremel wheel cut. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/15. Misc/MOTM_25256.jpg http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/12. Boots and Holster/MOTM_5985.jpg https://i.imgur.com/yAYYqlW.png The "side guard" of the holster, for lack of a better term, is fitted in the middle of the slot, when it should fit further towards the bottom. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/12. Boots and Holster/MOTM_14757.jpg https://databank.501st.com/mw501/images/a/a0/TB_scout_holster.jpeg Again, thank you for your application. We recognize that there's quite a few notes here, but it's all fully achievable. Stay motivated and you can do it. Please let us know if you have any questions or need any further clarification.

Nice work. I'd say there's a bit too much material on the back riding patches, so I've marked in green about where it should be. The butt flap is a little tricky to judge without the belt as a point of reference, but I've again marked in green about where I think it should get trimmed down. The butt flap wasn't very big -- see screenshot below.

Looks solid. For my pouches, I use foam as well, but I cut a slot/indent into it, so I've got a place to put my phone, keys, id, etc.

Looks okay to me from here -- I wouldn't recommend re-doing it based on the photos you posted. I would try hitting the edges of the pouches with an iron if you can, just to get some of the wrinkles out.

Correct. The specific fabric requirements for the bund and pouches are for Level 2 only.

Thank you for your application. The Level 2 review team will get back to you with our initial findings.

@MrPoopie?

Yeah, I'd say what you did with the Ace brand ivory is pretty close. Truth be told, I am very much not a fan of the Ace brand spray paint, as I've found that it tends to crack and chip very easily. I think it'll prob be fine as long as the surface prep is good.

Thanks for this. I've seen mention of this method in the past, but I've also seen comments that it made the plastic more brittle over time? How's it feel in that respect?

This is not an absolute value, but the general consensus was that the 4x rank bars are approximately 1/4" x 1.5" or 6mm X 38mm with a 1/4" space in between. The trapezoid is one of the 4 rank stripes with the edges cut into a trapezoid. Perfect, exact measurements aren't called for in the CRL, so all you need to do is get close to what it looks like in the photo above.

Congrats on your approval Patrick. A job well done!

Here's an easy trick that works for many folks -- find your navel on your stomach and position your belt just below that. From there, the bund should sit just above the belt. How does that end up looking, once in place?

Yeah, don't sweat that stuff too much right now. People move, stuff moves. We'll get it figured out if you decide to post some L/R/Front/Back photos. Your two primary items are the cod and bund, which shouldn't be too tough to fix.

Excellent work.

Nice work. I still have my RS kit in the box gathering dust...need to get on that. From that one photo, I don't see much that's off. You already mentioned bringing the bund up and cod down. Question -- Did you end up reshaping the chest portion? It's somewhat wide on me (5ft8, 152 lbs) and I was prob going to use a bit of heat to bend the center seam so the sides would come in a bit. Did you also trim the shoulder bells a bit as well?

The model for this one looks okay, but keep in mind that it'd be shipping from the UK. Personally, I tend to be somewhat reluctant when it comes to shipping something that looks like a firearm through customs, as it might get confiscated.

This one looks like the old Hyperfirm mold, which you can see a review of, here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/18225-ultimate-scout-pistol-comparison-thread/ It's a pretty inaccurate mold and oversized. It would not meet Level 2/Lancer standards.

Okay yeah, if you want to post some links of the printed blasters you've been looking at then we'd be happy to give them a look. @MrPoopie has a pretty nice 3D blaster file available, but you'd need to find a friend or garrison mate to print it for you.

Most of the 3-D blasters I've seen are a little on the small side. If you're printing your own, you can re-scale them easy enough. The finishing work to remove the print lines can be a bit of work though. @KOtrooper you printed your own holdout blaster right? What files did you use?

It means that the dogbone should be glued like, or close to, this: And not glued over the toe strip or onto the sides of the soles, like this: (Example is from a Lancer app where it came up)

Unfortunately, not a lot of options there -- CA glue doesn't come off easy. Its primary solvent is acetone, but I wouldn't put that stuff anywhere near your RS tank. You can prob pry the tank topper up with a chisel blade, but it'll likely crack and leave a mess. Yes the RS armor is more "cream" colored. I haven't been able to find a good color match outside of custom mixing. If you want to try the antique white on a plastic spoon, please let us know how it compares. You might want to email Andrea at RS and see if you can just buy a second tank and topper. Otherwise you could ask SC for a rough cut tank and, once you get the paint matched better, trim and paint it to fit the RS back piece.

Either will work as long as you can't see the zipper or snaps under the outer costume parts. My current coveralls are RedKap, but it's really heavy material and not very breathable. It's also short in the torso, which isn't always super comfortable. I've got a pair of Kolossus coveralls that I need to start working on for my replacement set. The material is much nicer.