Chopper

The number of indents on the back of the helmets varied. Some had seven indents, such as the helmet RS bought. Some had eight, which is the version you're looking at in the photo. Either is acceptable. The Salomon helmet is very good as far as 3D helmets go. But if you're looking for closer screen matched accuracy, then you might want to look at some of the non 3D vendors.

No back cover is required.

Looks good. Barely noticeable.

I like what you did there. Nice work.

I think you'll be fine if you center the rivet.

Anything that isn't outwardly visible on the costume is totally personal preference. I velcroed my webbing inside the belt. Honestly though, I've never had a reason to remove or adjust it, so it was probably overkill at the time of my initial build. Others have glued theirs in and that's fine as well.

Yes, using only a single rivet is a known stress point. If you're talking about the plastic part of the belt, no it's not necessary. Just fold over the webbing and stitch it onto itself. On the back side, I used snaps to attach the rear drop box straps to the 2" webbing in the back for that same reason. Also, if the straps get tangled or twisted, it makes for an easy fix. (This is an older photo, so I don't recommend using velcro to keep your detonator box on -- I abandoned that idea early in my trooping life.) Others have sewn or used a rivet to attach their drop back straps to the 2" webbing.

What scouts choose to do locally is between them and their local garrison. For your shoulder bells, I'd actually let them out another 1/2" and see how it looks.

I would be very cautious about doing a wire transfer. When sending funds via wire transfer, once the funds are sent they cannot be recovered.

You'd need to add a mechanical stop where it rotates, so that it isn't able to open high enough to hit the dome. I don't know the internals of this helmet well enough to say how to add this feature though.

That plate was added in order to reinforce the join between the two halves of the abs visor. With a 3D printed part, there is no practical reason for you needing to have it. As you say, it's not required at any level, but if you want to add it for purely aesthetic reasons, then there's nothing stopping you from doing so.

Generally, it would be about 1/2" to 3/4"

Arne, I have never heard about anyone using magnets or hooks to keep their bund and chest armor in place. Velcro is the most common method, though some have used button snaps as well. In the end, as long as it's not visible, it doesn't matter what method you use, so long as it works.

The corners are going to be underneath the bridge covers anyhow, so it's not a problem to round out that corner edge on the shoulder bridges. Mine wrap all the way around and then secures to itself, while Kayelbe's appears to connect to the velcro on the underside of the bridge. Either way will work.

That's a personal rigging preference -- it is not required. Use it if you think it would be helpful when putting your gear on. We don't have any publicly available photos of what went under the cod or bund, so we don't know if the film suits had them or not.

Hmm that's a pretty big break on the corner. You've got a lot of rivets on the back -- maybe too many. I don't think you need the washer between the holster and the boot, or the extra large washer. You really just want a washer there to offload the compression on the plastic when the rivet s installed as well as to keep it from pulling through the vinyl. You can probably splint the holster by gluing a piece of styrene behind the break with Devcon plastic weld. It might hold for a wile, though once something in a high stress area cracks, it's really hard to rig up a permanent fix.

Yeah that looks about right. Stick with that until you get the rest of the kit fitted.

Hi Pat, can you show me a photo of the outside stress area as well as the inside part of the boot as well?

The best technique involves light misting from a distance. Remember, less is more -- don't overdo it. The bund, cod, and pouches get a light misting as well with a similar technique -- I'd do a bit less misting on the soft goods than the armor. Check Strider's post from 11 May, 2017 in the link below: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/page/2/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2be0cuCSoLQ

Don't worry, Arne. The 5-piece scout helmet is one of the most difficult helmets to construct. And, done right, the SC helmet can be finished very nicely as well -- the key is to get the eyeslot looking right.

I put some velcro on the ends of the cover, so that I could close it on the bottom of the shoulder bridge.

Yes, for Level 1/Basic Clearance, a 1.5" bridge cover is fine.

You did a really solid job with the boot construction. My only real concern is the amount of pebbled texture on the vinyl -- this is something that's come up recently in a few builds. And to be clear, that's not a basic clearance issue, it's more to do with Level 2. But yeah, that's the only real item that I can see. I'd encourage you to keep going with your build for basic clearance and you can worry about that sort of thing later.

Hi Scot, thank you for your patience. The Level 2 Review Team has gone over your application and we have the following notes: Preliminary Note: This application appears to use photos from different dates as a part of the submission. Linking to a WIP is fine, but when submitting for Level 2/Lancer, it is expected that all application photos reflect the current state of the armor. For example, in some photos there are 4x rank bars, in others 6x rank bars? In some photos the dropbox webbing is twill tape, in others it's webbing? In some photos the bicep greebs are facing the correct direction, in others they are reversed? Please update your application photos to depict the current state of your armor and then we can continue your review. Flight Suit It is difficult to see how the riding patches fit due to the lighting. When you re-take the photos, please try to take them outdoors or with better lighting. Shoulder Armor Measurements indicate 3/8" elastic on the shoulder armor. The CRL calls for 1/2" elastic. Upper Arm Armor Dressing note -- some photos have the arm armor on backwards. The circles on the greebs should face forwards. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/07. Arm Armor/Blu Ray bicep.jpg Our DL mentioned that you broke your bicep armor recently? The damaged armor will need to be repaired/replaced in order to proceed with the application. Gloves The gloves in your app don't appear to match any makers that we are aware of -- are you certain that they came from Wampa? The suede patches on the Fingers and thumb differ from photos of the Esprit, Wampa, or Imperial Boots gloves. The suede finger patches come all the way to the ribs, which is incorrect. Also, the thumb patch is too small. https://wampawear.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Glovewhite.jpg Were the suede patches replaced or repaired at some point? Back Armor Some photos depict 4x rank stripes. In others there are 6x rank stripes. How is it configured currently on your armor? Also, for the 6x stripes, the bottom two stripes don't look like they're the same thickness as the others. If the intent is to go with 6x rank stripes, then all of the stripes should be the same thickness. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/06. Back Armor/ROTJ pouches tank.jpg http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/07. Arm Armor/Arm Armor 1.jpg Tank topper is oversized and the "button" in the upper right is extremely oversized when compared to the original. The actual prop used the same circular greeb as was used on the detonator. The greeb in your application is much larger. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/06. Back Armor/Tank greeblie.jpg Pouches Dressing note -- move pouches inwards slightly, maybe 1/2" to 3/4" on each side. Belt Drop straps are too close together where connected in back. Should put approximately a 1" space in between them. The parachute buckles are sitting too close to the belt -- they need to be centered on their respective strap Drop straps look like twill tape, instead of webbing in some photos? But in other photos they're webbing? How is it configured currently? Detonator The det tubing is small and the end caps are oversized with a deep indent that differs from the production/CRL photos. The det box is symmetrical, which is not allowed for Level 2, and will need to be replaced. Boots Dogbone is glued to the side of the sole -- moreso on the right inside, but it's overlapping a bit on the left outside as well. It will need to be trimmed so, as per the CRL, it does not overlap the toe strip and sole on both sides. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/12. Boots and Holster/MOTM_22523.jpg We only have application photos of the left outside boot and the right inside boot. Please provide photos of the other sides. Holster The thickness of the cut outs in holster are too large. They will need to get filled with ABS paste and then re-cut. They shouldn't be any wider than a razor saw or thin dremel wheel cut. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/15. Misc/MOTM_25256.jpg http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/12. Boots and Holster/MOTM_5985.jpg https://i.imgur.com/yAYYqlW.png The "side guard" of the holster, for lack of a better term, is fitted in the middle of the slot, when it should fit further towards the bottom. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/12. Boots and Holster/MOTM_14757.jpg https://databank.501st.com/mw501/images/a/a0/TB_scout_holster.jpeg Again, thank you for your application. We recognize that there's quite a few notes here, but it's all fully achievable. Stay motivated and you can do it. Please let us know if you have any questions or need any further clarification.

Nice work. I'd say there's a bit too much material on the back riding patches, so I've marked in green about where it should be. The butt flap is a little tricky to judge without the belt as a point of reference, but I've again marked in green about where I think it should get trimmed down. The butt flap wasn't very big -- see screenshot below.