Chopper

You are correct that the codpiece will need to be redone, I'd say even for basic clearance. As you mentioned, the arc needs to be higher and the general shape needs some refining. Note in the photo below how the sides curve on the edges, vs being more straight. Also you might need to add some foam or batting to the interior of the cod. I would recommend putting in stirrups before taking the pant legs in more. Less work on your part. Most people do use hot glue to affix the lens to the face plate. The hot glue is not used as an adhesive between the face plate and the lens, if that's what you did before. Just put down a layer of hot glue over the edge of the lens and onto the face plate, usually along the left and right sides. Once the glue dries it holds the lens in place.

There are a few vendors for finished flight suits out there. If you want US based, there's @Chrisx909x on these forums. There's also KriptonTop on Etsy who ships from S. America. There's also Chef's Creations in the UK.

Congrats

Congrats!

Good luck

You want to use the one on the left. The aerator on the right has numerous inaccuracies and I would not expect it to clear approval.

Most people either use tactical padding inside the helmet, or they use a hard hat helmet headband. I have not heard about anyone specifically using WS Custom Helmet Liners, but that doesn't mean they might not work just as well.

The Kropserkel helmet assembly is very similar to the Studio Creations helmets assembly. There's a video you can use, here:

I wouldn't try grinding down the post. I'd check with your GML to see if they're okay with it. If not, you can always use a cobalt tip drill bit to drill out the rivet and try the inner washer suggestion. Regarding pouches, where is your belt sitting? I usually tell folks to find their navel, and then put the top edge of the belt just under the navel. Is that where yours is?

With your stated sizing, you might want to go with custom tailoring. There are a few options out there -- @Chrisx909x is US based, and there's also KriptonTop on Etsy, who will ship via FedEx from Bolivia. Both vendors have been used by many approved scouts over the years.

What if you use the same size and put an additional washer on the inside of the tank?

The stub on the track topper rivet is allowed, though I would have recommended a rivet with a smaller pull. The tank topper can be riveted either way, though the photos from the magic of the myth exhibit ndicate that it was done as you have.

Have you tried contacting @bikerchick for a replacement?

@Jakeputt

I believe you have them reversed. I flipped the image in photoshop to show what I mean. The dots on the right arm greeblie should face towards your front.

@MrPoopie

1. The CRL photo is a holdover from when we thought that the "dots" had to both face forward. That is no longer the case. The "dots" only face one direction -- forward on the right arm, and rearward on the left arm. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/07. Arm Armor/Blu Ray bicep.jpg 2. The tank topper is likely resin, so you can use whatever paint you want. Sometimes there's mold release agent on the greeb, so you might want to give it a wash in the sink with a small drop of dish detergent. Once it's cleaned and thoroughly dried, it should paint just fine. Black spray primer would work. A spray can for the overall with acrylic for white and red should be fine. 3. Do not freehand the tank stripes. The product you're looking for is called automotive pin striping tape. You want 1/8", or the closest metric equivalent pin striping tape.

Overall, I think your tank looks fine and you should have no issues for clearance. Part of the reason that you're having some trouble getting that exact fit is because of the bump near the bottom of the back armor. Note how the tank in the photo below has an indent to fit with the lower edge of the back armor? Now, do you need to do this with that way yours currently fits? No, I don't think so.

I can tell you that the RS Props paint color is RAL 9010. That said, I would leave it. The way the paint chipped like it did means that it's going to be a beast to try and paint over and look right. Yeah you could sand it and then paint, but you'll likely end up just having to paint the entire bucket in order to get an even coat and that's a lot of work.

By "attachments" are you talking about the shoulder bridge covers? What kit are you building? RS or WTF?

Hey Gloria, don't worry too much about the heat gun accident. It's happened to pretty much all of us at one time or another, including myself. As for the belt, that's a tough one. Yes, it does look high. Usually I tell folks to find your navel and put the top edge of the belt just below that. If you lengthen the webbing on the back of the belt, are you able to reposition it lower? My concern is what you mentioned about the bund, as only having an inch or two showing is going to leave the pouches hanging over your belt. Melody @KOtrooper , I know you usually do ST stuff, but do you have any suggestions on the scout side?

You can locate your garrison via this handy map. Texas is Star Garrison. https://www.501st.com/maps/imagemap-northamerica.php

Nice work. I don't see any rear-side photos, but from what I can see, I suspect you'll be approved without issue. The only item that might come up is that your drop box straps are not supposed to be functional. The webbing is supposed to be threaded behind the buckle. Regardless, good work overall. I suspect it won't be an issue for approval.

Your marked trim lines look fine. You can a little bit off the top edge as well, if need be. I'd wait until you get your shoulder armor trimmed and fitted first though. I do not advise trying to trim down the forearm armor, just due to the shape of it and the return edges.

We look forward to seeing your final photos.