Chopper

One quick note if you're going for 501st approval. I see that you used the snout decal. As per the CRL: "Snout recess is painted black". You'll need to mask and paint the area matte black.

Forum photo hosting space is unfortunately limited. You can externally host images, as per this thread:

Fyi, the original black snout portion was not gloss:

The holster is going to have to get removed and painted. The soles of the boots have an odd pattern on them -- not sure if those would be approvable. The boot vinyl would need cleaning and some re-gluing, it looks like. Also looks like there's an ink stain on the top of the vinyl on the left boot that'd need to be removed. The stain on the bund is going to be an issue. I don't think turning it around will work, with the attached cod. It will likely need to replaced. The decal on the right shoulder bell would need to be removed for approval.

That looks like an old studio creations kit. At minimum the belt would need to be replaced.

Okay, that looks like a Kropserkel helmet. Aside from the yellowing, you should be *mostly* okay for basic clearance. Get rid of that clear tubing on the back of the neck. I'd also get a replacement snout piece from Studio Creations. Get rid of the decal behind it and paint that area black instead. Doing a quick overview for Level 2, aside from what I've mentioned above, you'd need to replace the rotator bolts with the proper 3M bolts. Also the earholes might be cut too large, which would be an issue that's difficult to fix. And I don't mean this harshly, but I do want to set your expectations about Level 2 -- keep in mind that you bought a 15 year old kit and standards have changed considerably since then. Some changes might be easier than others with what you have.

Yep, for sure. Post some photos and we'll get it figured out.

Hiya Brian, any idea what maker kit you ended up buying? For the flak vest, you can check out @Chrisx909x who would be local to you, or you can try KriptonTop on Etsy. There are other vendors as well, here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/19003-biker-scout-vendor-list/

I think that the shape of the cuts look fine. Maybe hit the edges with a nail file or some 400 grit sandpaper to smooth it out a bit. Otherwise, you should be good.

I think you can probably take off another 1/2" from the bottom of the shoulder bells.

What you're seeing in the CRL is an idealized positioning. Many troopers also use velcro to hold their bicep and knee armor in place. That said, the bicep armor on the screen used costumes was not attached to the flight suit, so what you're also seeing in the film photos are the armor parts shifting around as the actors move. If you look at the background scouts on the Death Star, when the Emperor arrives, their biceps are higher up. I would consult with your GML if you prefer to wear your biceps lower down, near the forearm armor.

Mesh is no longer allowed for basic clearance, though it was when the video was made. You can either paint the visible interior, or you can use black gaffer tape to make it appear black.

Congrats on your approval, trooper.

Folks, just a reminder that build threads are meant to be a conversation between the armorers and the person working on the build. I've moved and merged the posts about mic and audio set up into Dennis' original thread, here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21922-ukswrath-audio-rs-bucket/#comment-226233

There's no firm rule for it. Rough guidance is that the bicep elastic part should be just below the lower edge of a properly fitted flak vest sleeve and about halfway between the bottom of your shoulder bell and the bend in your arm.

That detail only shows up on the commercially available Don Post scout helmets from the 1990s. It shouldn't be used on any scout armor or helmet for 501st approval.

Yes, that tank topper is too big. I suggest you get a replacement one from Studio Creations: https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html

You should be good to submit with your last round of photos.

Looks much better.

My helmet is from Strider. Not many were made, though I have an RS on the shelf as well. There are a number of options if you're looking for a helmet. You can peruse some of the makers in this thread:

Hey Bro. Yeah if you don't want to go for the accurate 3M bolts, since they're for set pieces, then the steel piece you have in the photo should be fine. That's basically what the SC helmets come with out of the box too.

Congrats Vanguard!

Ah, that was not clear in the photos you posted. The angle is funny, but I can't see a big issue with the thickness of the ear for basic. There's no ear hole at all though? It's just flat? If so, then yes, that's going to be an issue and you'll need to carefully cut and sand the ear holes out of the print.

The trapezoids on the upper rear of the helmet will need to get filled in. Also the indents above the eyeslot and below the eyeslot will need to get filled in as well. Those are meant to be decals, not indented details. 😁 From the photos you've posted, the rest of the helmet seems ok. Once properly finished.

Urgh. What you're seeing is likely stress cracks from the faceplate getting forced to bend to the shape of the jowls of the bucket. You can try using a small drill bit and drilling a hole at the end of the crack and then filling the crack with putty. You can also try gluing some abs as a reinforcement on the interior. That won't keep it from cracking again, but it might keep the crack from continuing further.