Chopper

Congrats!

The back of the bund does not need to be perfectly center aligned no, but it should be in that ballpark. From what I can see in your second photo, that should be okay, though you should try it on again once you get your back armor fitted to see how it looks overall.

Appreciate your help, Arne.

No problem. Just remember, the CRL says "Drop boxes hang approximately 1 inch from the belt." The key word is "approximately", as an exact measurement is not called for here and you have a little leeway for adjustments.

Okay, so I think you have some wiggle room to work on this issue. First off, I'd remove the 2" clips that connect the back of the belt together. Overlap the 2" webbing and use velcro to connect the back strapping instead. Do you have enough excess to securely overlap the back? Again, it's hard to tell from the angle, but with some slight dropping of the side boxes, and if you move where the rear drop box strapping attaches slightly inward, then that might alleviate your issue.

The style of rivet that's in your link is called a "pop rivet", which is the one you're looking for. You want to get ones made from aluminum. All of the rivets used on the scout armor should use the same diameter rivet, so you only need one type. And don't forget to purchase backing plates to put behind the rivet, after it's been fitted. This prevents it from stressing and eventually pulling out of the plastic.

Would it be possible to get someone to take some further out photos of how the straps look from the back? The close + angle makes it hard to both judge the issue and come up with potential solutions.

I attached the chest and back using a strip of webbing attached underneath the shoulder bridges. You can glue it, once you got everything sized and positioned, or you can use a strip of velcro instead of webbing. Now, what you're talking about with the shoulder bridge covers isn't even a Level 2 item. If you want to go that way for personal accuracy, then that's fine, but whether or not it wraps around or doesn't wrap around isn't something we look for in the reviews.

From what I can see, your cuts look fine. You might want to pick up some Lexan Scissors as that gives you a bit more control versus using a dremel. From Amazon.de: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Llexan-Scissors-Curved-Plastic-Vehicle/dp/B07XRHHB4Y/ref=sr_1_2?crid=29Q8HT871DON8&keywords=lexan+schere&qid=1677345869&sprefix=lexan+scissor%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-2 https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Scissors-Curved-Model-Body-Cutting/dp/B07BT7LN86/ref=sr_1_1?crid=29Q8HT871DON8&keywords=lexan+schere&qid=1677345869&sprefix=lexan+scissor%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-1

A Lancer deployment cannot be submitted until you have basic approval through your garrison. You can ask general questions about your build in your WIP, but note that the Level 2/Lancer review process involves a multiple person review team and can take some time to complete the assessment. For that reason, we do not do Lancer "pre-reviews".

That washer appears to be too big. You want something smaller, like in the photo below. Note that the washer is smaller than the white circle, while in your photo they're close to being the same size. You want something that's about this size. Note that this is not an exact measurement requirement and it is not stipulated as such in the CRL. I'm just trying to give you a sense of scale. This washer I used is a back up plate, as came in a pack of these: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/fastening-tools/rivet-backup-plates/2014215 If you have an Ace or TrueValue hardware store near you, they usually have a section where you can but loose nuts, bolts, screws, and washers. You should be able to get a similarly sized washer for about .07 or .08 cents.

I don't think suspenders will work, since for the mando scout there's going to be a gap between the chest armor and the bund, so they'll show. The mando scout bund basically hangs on the belt by the pouches. I'd see how it all feels first, but once you have everything positioned right, if it's still dropping then you could put some velcro on the belt and bund and as long as your belt isn't dropping as well, then it should hold together okay.

Hah! Well thanks for checking with us. We appreciate it!

Hmmm yeah, you can double check with your local GML, but I think the sole and heel might be too thick to work effectively for a scout boot.

Acrylic weathering, once dry, is usually tough enough that you shouldn't need to put a clear coat over it. The only thing that'll strip it off is 90% iso alcohol, so it should be fine if it gets a little wet or anything like that. Any scrapes from armor parts bonking against each other are just...weathering! You shouldn't need to lay down a white base layer first. You should just be able to build up layers of weathering in a gradual process onto the plastic itself. Sometimes a very light wet sand with 1200 grit can help the paint stick, but the key is to keep it light.

Yes, the 4 bars are double the width of the 6 bar stripe width. The trapezoid should only be present if you're using the 4 bars. I made mine using one of the standard bars and I used an exacto knife and ruler to cut the ends to shape.

Looks like you're well on your way. If you're doing a Mando Scout with a goal of Level 2, then you can skip the imperial boots footwear and save yourself some additional cash. There's a number of issues with them that are not easily corrected for Level 2. You're building your own boots, so there's no reason that you shouldn't be able to build them to the standard of Mando Scout Level 2.

Hi Z, I think that's too much trimming off the bottom of the chest armor. I'd add about 3/4" to 1" more from where your line is. There was some lip on the screen used armor, as in the photos below: You might also want to read through these threads: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/22685-a-few-words-about-level-2-and-new-recruits/#comment-211804

My bin is tall enough that I can fit my chest and back armor vertically. Some folks separate and stack their chest and back armor, but that also depends on how you've done your build. You might want to check these threads for some ideas on packing and storage bins: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21153-packing-for-deployment/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21254-bin-size-for-scout-goods/#comment-194491 http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23213-best-storage-box-scout/#comment-218360 http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/22937-suitcase-looking-for-ideas-help/#comment-215077

Both Studio Creations and the 7CS helmet are approvable, provided they are constructed and painted correctly. The Studio Creations helmet runs a little smaller, so if you have a large head, then there are other options out there. The 7CS helmet uses Lone Wolf helmet/LW sculpt with permission, which up until the RS helmet came out, was considered one of the best helmets out there. Lou does a great job. You might also want to look at this thread: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23117-ultimate-helmet-comparison-thread/#comment-91027

I would go for a Kropserkel or Studio Creations helmet before getting the Cyber Craft helmet. The Cyber Craft helmet has a considerable number of inaccuracies. The Kropserkel helmet does fit larger heads, but most anyone can wear it without it looking oversized or off scale.

We have pretty much zero photos of what the front side opening of the flak vest looked like on the production suits, so we're not all that critical about the shape of the neck. It should be primarily under the chest armor anyhow. The only real issue to be mindful of with the flak vest opening is to make sure that it doesn't extend beyond your shoulder bridges.

Will E6000 work on plastic? Yes. E6000 works well for gluing two materials that won't bond well, or things that you might need to slightly reposition, like resin greeblies on plastic. For the purpose you're talking about though, which is ABS on ABS reinforcement, I wouldn't use E6000. Ideally you want the plastic to bond to itself. I would try and find some ABS cement at the hardware store for a better, more permanent bond. I don't know what the equivalent is in Germany, (@OnkelPaschulke do you know?) but this is what we use in the states: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/solvents-and-cements/pvc-cement/4039426?store=16714&gclid=CjwKCAiAuaKfBhBtEiwAht6H7xIYDsjId-sKMJN1Qui0j4xglynuJHw6-txn77tpJHbl5dXiATsadBoClPAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Congrats!

Correct