ScaryGuy

For basic that color would be good. Like BroderLoki said Montana Gold Himalaya is used a lot. Since the armor is Sahara Beige it makes sense to stick with the Montana Gold brand for the other colors. For level 2 the correct Ford Nordic blue is required, you can find some references here:

Welcome Miguel! Check our vendor list for current armor makers. I know Jsin Props offers commisions for KB Props armor kits.

The best method is to use imaging software and use a measure tool to get measurements from a reference picture, and scale those to your actual real world measurements. The different armor kits vary in size so using measurements from others is not always the most accurate. But here are the measurements from my BSP kit to give an idea: Green: 30 mm x 7 mm (edges are rounded). This greeblie is slightly wider then the space between the two large recesses. Orange: 8 mm diameter Blue: 9 x 3.5 mm (edges are rounded) Edit: also check the cut-out on the left bottom. It should have a raised edge and the cut-out is painted black,

Do you also have the greeblies that are below the large recesses (green and orange arrows)? These are required. I see you also added the holes. For more accuracy (and level 2) you can also add the small rectangle greeblies (blue arrows), and the cut-outs behind the shoulder strap slots (white arrows).

Congrats!

Little nitpick: the blue band tapers at the outer edges. On the screen used costumes there is some variation on the angle used, but they all taper.

Good progress! Don’t forget the black side strips, and the black recess in the chest.

Nice work on the helmet! The black stripes on the shoulder bell are way too thick. I think if you make the white band bigger it will solve this. Check the original references for the correct ratios.

Not sure if you are still in progress of painting the helmet, but some areas on the helmet need to be black.

You can download Sean’s files, and the modifications made by Joel, here: http://shoretrooper.co.uk/ Nico Henderson’s files are not free, you can find him on facebook.

If the soles were black I would say yes. Maybe you can paint the soles. The would need moderate weathering to make them darker and loose the shine. The mesh/elastic would preferably be black too.

I use elastic straps to connect both sides of the abs together. The cover plate attaches to two snaps in the middle of those straps.This allows the ab section to stretch behind the cover plate.

The bottom of the hole needs to be flat, that’s not easy to achieve if you only want to drill it deeper. The tip of a drill is not flat. But if you want that look then drill through the back plate. Make sure it has a thickness of approx 5 mm, so add extra layers if necessary to reach that depth. Then put something behind the gap and darken it according to the references.

I think it’s much easier to just drill through the plate and leave it open or back it with something.

We were shown a picture where the holes in the back plate do not go all the way through, but are backed by something (probably the vent plate). Therefore we have decided to allow both options: all the way through and backed. However, in case it's backed the holes need to be deep enough which is still not the case with your back plate. Anyway, there are now two options which you can choose from. Changes: Current Vanguard standards:

Looks good!

The cylinders look a bit shorter then in the picture. How does it match with the size of the magazine port?

Another question for you, can you show us a picture that the ridged strip is present in the right greeblie box? We couldn’t really see it in your pictures.

As a Dutchman I love the fact that he appears to be wearing wooden shoes .

Congrats Melody! Well done!

Thanks for clarifying. I also need to make a correction, there are references that a bent scope rail was used so you can remove that one from the list.

Ok, here we go. Armor is looking good with just a few small things: In many images the second ridge along the lens runs through above the nose, but there are also images where it has been removed. Did you modify it while taking pictures? The handplates don't have the slots, this is currently a basic requirement. Holes in the back plate need to go through, they are now recesses painted Sahara Beige. In the right greeblie box there's an extra step around the cylinder. This needs to be removed. The chin cup does not have oblong holes but they are round. Also if you want to use a 3D printed part then it needs to be smooth so the print lines are no longer visible. The kama is too short. It needs to go down to the shin buckles as per the CRL: The rear of the Kama extends at the rear to behind the lower area of the wearer’s knee. The front of the Kama extends to approximately level with the bottom of the shin buckle. The boots need to be darker and also more weathered/distressed. They still look really new. The E-11 is missing some Rogue One features: The end of the scope rail is bent, it should be mounted on a block with a bolt. The ejection port is not smooth and there's a hole in it. The code cylinders are not the correct Rogue One type: The color of the scope looks different from the rest of the blaster, did you add/replace it later on? Add some weathering to blend it in with the rest of the blaster.

Can you post a top view picture of your blaster, showing the code cylinders and the scope rail from above?

Thanks for your application! We'll look into it and get back to you.

Bondo alone is not strong enough to hold the pieces together, you need to put a piece of plastic behind the seam to glue both sides together. If the plastic has a different thickness then the fiberglass then you need to be a bit creative with using multiple sheets etc to get the same thickness as the fiberglass. If the area you want to shim is curved you might need to curve the plastic first. Abs can be curved when heated, either by using boiling water or a heat gun. A heat gun takes a bit of practice because you can easily overheat the abs with that. Here's an example on how I modified my abs kit. A thick piece of 2 mm abs was glued behind both sides, then the seam is filled with bondo or abs paste. I used thick abs because I bend open the ab section when dressing. You want to avoid flexing at areas with bondo because it probably will not hold under stress.