ScaryGuy

It's hard to tell if the lines are black, a darker shade of grey, or that it's just shading applied. Even a solid black line will not appear totally black because of anti-aliasing. The CRL doesn't mention a color so I think both grey and black are fine. I think we also have to consider the intended purpose of a line in the animated version. For example there are black lines on the knee armor and forearm pieces, but these are translated to mould lines in the real world costume.

No problem! I can take measurements for you. I’m working on a Rebels scout too.

Very cool to have another option for the blaster! I don’t think they made it up completely, for example the shape of the barrels look like the references, but they added details that are their own design. Without detailed images from the blaster design I think it will always be an artist impression. Looking forward to your design! Do you have measurements for the holster it should fit in?

Congrats! Well done!

Welcome Emmanuel! Checkout the vendor list linked below. I you haven’t decided on a kit yet look at some build threads in the Shoretrooper HQ and WIP forums to see the differences between the available kits.

Great job Sebastien!

That makes your build extra special James, you can be proud on your hard work!

In case you missed it:

Congrats James, well done!

James, thanks for making the adjustments. Congratulations, you have earned the Vanguard rank! Well done brother! And go order that racing shirt ?.

Here you can see how I did mine: On the original costume the second ridge was part of the lens, so you can also attach it to the lens instead of the helmet. It's best to use a curved lens like from a motorcycle helmet visor. A flat lens is fine for basic approval though.

I’m thinking why you need so many ears and snouts ?. This helmet doesn’t have the second ridge along the lense opening, you could add that to make it more accurate. It is not a requirement for basic approval.

Allright James, we want to see the red strip only if you have the hero version of the blaster, including all the leds as specified in the optional requirments for the E-22. So if you are sticking with the stunt the red strip should be removed.

Getting there, foam seems to be the last remaining issue. I'm also looking into the red strip on the sides of your blaster. The hero versions had the red strips with functioning leds, the stunt blasters didn't have a red strip.

We don't expect people to buy the actual airsoft gun, the blaster design just has to be based on the airsoft version. E.g. it has to have the grip of the airsoft version instead of the more rounded grip of the original Sterling. Resin casts or 3D printed designs are just fine. I had a quick glance over it, the bolts in the scope rail should not be sunken:

Use the hard ones. Didn't they come with your kit?

It has to be really big compared to the armor before it's going to be an issue. Has the bucket been printed on a large scale? But like you said, it's better to make a judgement when you can compare it when wearing the upper armor pieces.

I don’t have a side by side comparison for you, but the Anovos is probably the smallest bucket out there. What really matters is how it fits you, and matches the proportions of your armor.

Welcome! We always like it when people are going to mod their kits to make them better. Looking forward to your build!

Other than that 3D render on the site I haven't seen pictures of a real kit yet. So until we do we can't comment on accuracy etc.

Congrats! Nice work!

Those dimensions look good!

Here's a comparison between your should bell next to a reference picture: Using absolute measurements from others only works if everybody is using the exact same armor. But since we have many different types of armor which vary in size and shape this doesn't always work right. The picture with the band measurements that is floating around gets you in the right ball park, which is fine for basic approval, but for level 2 we want to get the proportions right. It's not a one size fits all. So you have to take your own measurements from a reference picture and scale that to your armor. Also be careful when using images from a CRL. These are meant to give an impression on how an (basic) approvable costume could look like, but not always match the requirements for higher levels. It's better to use reference pictures of an original costume. Still your bottom black band looks thicker, and the white band smaller, then the one in the CRL you are referencing. To get the dimensions for the black and white bands I used an imaging program (in this case Gimp). Using a measurement tool I determined the measurements of an original shoulder bell. In the picture the height of the shoulder bell was 164 mm. The black and white bands in the picture are from top to bottom 11.6, 40.2 en 10.9 mm. My shoulder bell has an actual height of 205 mm. So I had to multiply every measurement by 205 / 164 to scale them to my shoulder bell. So the width of the bands for mine are 14.5, 50.2 and 13.6 mm. As you can see the top black band is approx. 1 mm thicker then the bottom one. Again, this is an example on how it worked for me. You have to do the math for your own shoulder bell. Also check the distance from the bottom edge of the shoulder bell and compare it with screen references. You may have to tweak it a bit if the shape is a bit different from the screen used.

We discussed the blaster requirement. If you can’t have a blaster due to local law restrictions, or other reasons, we can make an exemption. But since you obviously have a blaster it should meet the level 2 requirements. So we will need pictures of your finished blaster for your approval.

James, we looked into your application and we ask you to make the following changes: As per basic approval requirement: "2 wedge shaped recesses on the outer edge of each mandible". Yours look straight/flat. Should be like this: Your chin cup is the wrong type. Look for JSP AHV000-500-000. Should be like this, with 3 oblong cut out shapes all laying flat. The black bands on your should bell are too thick, and the white band too high from the edge of the shoulder bell. Best way is to take measurements with imaging software from a reference picture and scale those measurements to the actual size of your shoulder bell. Yours: Should be: Your foam is covering your shoulder bells (BTW did you use plastazote foam?) Maybe you need too trim it, or it could be the way you have attached the foam to your armor. Normally the foam would curve inwards. This is how it curves on mine. In the pictures your shins look lighter then your upper armor. Can we get a side by side picture of your shins next to an upper armor piece? Also the top piece of the cover strip looks lighter then the rest of the shin. The black paint inside the front greeblie should be sahara beige Like this: The sides and back of your boots should be darker and weathered like the front of the boot.