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ScaryGuy

501st Pathfinder
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Everything posted by ScaryGuy

  1. I'll have to get back to you on that, but if so both stunt or hero would be fine.
  2. Thanks for your application James. Can you also post detail pictures of your E-22?
  3. It’s perfect, it also has the optional details for level 2. Like you said, repainting it with Sahara Beige and the correct chin cup is all that is needed.
  4. A one piece shirt and neckseal is approvable for level 1 and 2. I haven’t seen Jim Tripon’s gear in person, so I can’t comment on those but I do have the imperial boots stuff. The IB shirt is good and if you replace the velcro in the back with a zipper that zips down then it’s good for level 2. The IB pants aren’t that great, the fabric is very thin and I didn’t like the look of it. They are not ready for level 2 either, but are approvable for level 1.
  5. Yeah, I know .
  6. Some use velcro to keep the belt in position, I prefer to use snaps. With snaps you always know exactly where things need to connect. They are hidden by the belt boxes and solid piece. You can see some pictures here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=16967&view=findpost&p=154996 The metal buckle goes behing the thermal detonator / solid piece. You can see it in the back in this picture:
  7. Maybe some rocker patches would be nice as a start. Wouldn’t mind to pay extra to get this started. For merch it would be much easier if every costume had the same level 2 name like other detachments have. I just keep hoping we can get some more shoretroopers to go for level 2 .
  8. How many Vanguards do we need before we can get some Vanguard swag .
  9. Congrats Paul, amazing work!
  10. No it doesn't have to be an actual real one. A replica (resin, 3D printed, etc) of it is also fine. The airsoft version is slightly different from the standard sterling (e.g. the edges of the grip are more square) so the replica has to be based on the airsoft version.
  11. Thanks for your application Paul, we will get back to you as soon as we have reviewed your application.
  12. Amazing work Paul, this is an insane kind of plastic surgery! Looking forward to your Vanguard application!
  13. Should be good then, if you buy them show us some pictures when you get them. There aren’t many sources for the gloves.
  14. For that price I would too . Enjoy the build, it's a great kit!
  15. The BSP V1 armor (there are no other versions) only has one real issue: there’s an extra step on the diagonal side strips. This needs modding but is pretty easy, just needs filling and sanding. Check my build thread for a possible solution: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=16967&view=findpost&p=152993 The BSP helmet comes in V1 and V2. V1 is fully resin and is quite heavy and large. V2 is a combination of fiberglass and resin and much smaller and lighter. I have both, while my V1 is still unfinshed. I find it too heavy to troop in so it probably going to end up as a display piece. So I would buy a different helmet then the BSP V1. If he is selling the kit with a V2 helmet then go for it.
  16. The oval detail could have been slightly bigger but they are approvable if the color is right. Especially in the top picture the leather doesn’t look black. Is that a camera issue?
  17. From the CRL: Black gloves with black leather or leather-like material on the palm, thumb, and forefinger The black oval detail is aligned with the index finger of each hand. The top one doesn’t look like leather at all. The bottom one is missing leather on the thumb and forefinger and the oval detail. So both would not pass without modification.
  18. 1. The lighting conditions in many of the reference photos make it difficult to do reliable color analysis. There is no evidence different shades of black were used on the helmet, and the brim is part of mould and not a rubber add on. So I would stick to using one black paint. If you really want to use plastidip then I think it should be approvable as long as the shade is not too much off from the other black items. I also don't think it would be durable, a small scratch and you can tear off your plastidip. 2. No evidence that it is cut out, so paint it black. 3. Matte black or plastidip is both fine for this one. 4. Again, no evidence that it is a different shade. Use the same black paint.
  19. I bought a 100 x 100 cm sheet (39 x 39 inch) and I think I can get 3 pairs of hip plates and side strips out of it. Make cardboard templates first and use them to cut to foam.
  20. Excellent work!
  21. Sometimes it’s hard to capture the amount of weathering with a camera, I can’t really see the difference between the left and right jaw. In some areas you can see you used a brush to apply it. I mostly used a sponge to apply the wash, and then used a paper towel to dab it off. Wiping will leave a trail so I wouldn’t use that too much.
  22. I would say it could use a bit more black wash, but the camera lighting could make it appear lighter then it really is. Maybe a few darker areas would give it a dirtier look. Compare it with some ref pictures. How did you apply the wash? Did you wipe it off?
  23. It’s good to look at different kits and then make a choice based on accuracy, sizing and budget. Start a build thread on the forum once you get your kit. It’s nice to have build threads for all the different kits here.
  24. KB Props is a known armour maker. Personally I’m not familiar with this kit, I looked at some pictures of the kit and I see no major issues. Lines seem a bit soft. Did you also look at other makers like BackStage Props, Jim Tripon, 850 Armor Works, KW Design? Some kits are targeted at bigger persons then others, so check which one would fit you best.
  25. Nice looking helmet! (One of the holes in the aerator needs cleaning ) The texture is not required, not for level 2 either. It's a matter of personal preference if you want it to add that extra accuracy. But if you do the texture should match with the screen references.
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