ScaryGuy

It’s not a requirement, but if you can I would add the buckle again to make it more accurate. It’s close to the pouch so normally it would be visible. Well, unless you are on short side like me 😉. I had to shorten the strap at the pouch side to make the buckle visible.

3D-Props was offering completed blasters but since they got severly backlogged they are just doing DIY kits at this time. They will probably be offered again in future, but not sure when.

Looks very nice! Mine is also stored in my bin, and I remove it when I go to troops 😂. I prefer giving high fives over carrying this dead weight all day. I only use it occasionally for photoshoots.

You could sand down the current edges and create new ones using pieces of abs. My helmet didn’t have them so I added them myself.

For basic approval that shape is fine. If you’re looking into level 2 they would need to extend further. They end near the round nose bridge.

It’s in the second line: Raised section with a hard corner. Contains twelve recessed areas.

FarEast also has a build thread which you can find here: If you want to aim for Vanguard (which would be great if you did), also check the Vanguards Standards thread. Some things might have changed after FarEast’s Vanguard application, for example the helmet emblem now has to be the correct orange red.

For the shins I would say the top op the front plates (these are a bit taller then the shins themselves) are around mid knee or max top of the knee. If you need to shorten your shins you can make a cut where the upper straps will be. This will hide any seam that would still be slightly visible. I had to shorten mine too, check my build thread. The belt is worn around the natural waist, so check if you can lower the ab to that height. Most of the ab is hidden behind the chest and back so it’s ok to shorten it. Just remember it can be visible from the sides above the side bridges so it has to look good there. Ideally the chest should still be above the greeblie box on the ab. Shoulder bell size looks good to me. The forearms look too big, both in length and width. Now the CRL says the forearms needs to have 12 recessed areas, so I you cut them down this is no longer the case. Check with your local GML if that would be ok. Otherwise you will need to remove it entirely and replace it with a custom made or 3D printed piece. If the width matches your arms they will stay in place. The shirt and gloves will add some volume at your wrists and you could add some padding but they look really wide now.

I think the width of the chest looks good, I wouldn’t make it any wider. The height might be a bit on the short side but I think that is because of the shape of the Sean Fields file. If you look at this Vanguard approval thread of a Sean Fields armor you can see there’s also a lot of the ab section showing.

As stated in the CRL the belt has to be made from two nylon straps. A single piece would look different because you would not see the seam between the two straps.

Congrats Pete!

The website is just for merchandise, look for the walt’s trooper factory group on facebook. You can contact them there.

I think it is allowed but then the application would be on hold for possibly months. During that time you might make changes to your costume so you would need to update your application again. @BikerScout007 what is your stance on this?

Sorry if I was confusing, but you do need that blaster for your Vanguard application. I was just referring to the armor.

Congrats Joe! I haven’t seen anything yet that would hold you back for Vanguard. One suggestion is to check the fit of your pants, looks a bit too big at the rear but maybe you just need to pull it up. Unfortunately 3D props is way behind, I have several garrison members waiting for orders which are months overdue. Might take long before he catches up.

Those measurements look good!

Yeah, I had a lot of frustration with the belt too. To keep it aligned with the bottom of the cummerbund I use a snap behind the front center belt box and two pieces of velcro sewn in the cummerbund and belt at the back. I had issues with the chest being pulled back by the weight of the back plate and tank, causing the cummerbund to come out. To counter this I added extra weight to the chest.

The CRL does say orange-red for basic, it just doesn’t have to be the exact spicy orange as It does for level 2.That said, I don’t think many GML’s will catch this.

Moving along nicely. I think your list covers most issues. Good choice to replace those abs shoulder straps. Some observations: The helmet emblem should be an orange red color, yours looks just red. Recommended colors: PANTONE 18-1445 TPX ("Spicy Orange") Montana Gold Red Orange is a recommended match The hand plates must have an oblong recess at the front.

Looking great! Keep it up!

I use a brush to get the wash into the hooks and crannies, then take a paper towel and dab, dab, dab. We’re trying to replicate the look of the screen used costumes, so I always try to match the weathering with what I see in reference pictures. You don’t see streaks of dirt on them. They used different methods to apply the dirt.

I used e6000. But because I had issues getting the glue to stick to the webbing I first smeared some e6000 on the webbing and let that dry. This will give more grip to glue them to the shins.

If you’re happy with the weathering then it’s fine. We see quite some variation in weathering techniques. I think a little more bit darker dirt in the nooks and crannies is going to improve the look. If you wipe it off instead of dabbing you can see the direction in which you wiped, that will make it less realistic.

Definitely looking better! Do you have the 3 ammo shells and oiler pouch already? You should check if the foam is tall enough to have room for those. The ammo shells should fit entirely on the foam, the oiler pouch overlaps with the hard plate.

Yes, the gauntlets should be closed. Maybe you can sew them together?