ScaryGuy

Thanks, looks better!

I think the top of the pouches should at least match the top of the belt boxes. Edit: @Gertjan Kool I looked through the Vanguard applications and some also carry their pouch also as low as this. So I guess it should be fine this way.

I would say the pouches hang too low, they should cover the belt boxes. Silver greeblie looks good, as does the overall look.

The pouches are quite heavy, so I agree the belt is probably not strong enough to hold the pouches in place. Additional attachments to the ab section would be required. This makes it difficult if you want to switch between variants.

Can take a picture again while wearing the armor? Just the ab, skirt and pouches is enough. I still think it’s a lot of straps. I fired up the game. I got it as a gift but never played it 😁. Just don’t like the Battlefront series. Took some time to figure out how to select the shoretroopers. The greeblie has not been modeled, it’s not present on both the heavy and the specialist. They left the brown strap brown on the heavy, so if there was a greeblie I would assume it would still be silver since they only replaced the Sahara Beige with black. But since it’s not there any guess is good.

You already noticed the chest wasn’t worn correctly, so I will skip that 😉. The brown strap on the can needs to be a bit higher, it’s not centered. You have it correctly on your Specialist. Also, does anyone have a reference picture of the top of the can? I wonder if the greeblie should be silver or not. I don’t really like the look of the pouch straps crossing at the front. So I am leaning towards making an exception for this variant and not use the straps but connect the pouches directly to the belt (also a bit higher). @BikerScout007 what do you think?

Since all kits vary in shape and size there is no exact measurement that works for all. A good starting point is to match the width of the decal with the width of the black recessed slot in the chest, and scale the other measurements accordingly, I used painters tape to cut my own decal.

That’s noise insulation / sound absorbing foam which I got from a local DIY store. These come in large sheets. I use these as padding inside my transportation boxes, I had some scrap pieces left which I sometimes use as helmet padding.

I think it’s going to be difficult to fit a hard hat liner. The easy way is to use pieces of foam. I didn’t have much room inside the helmet, so there’s just a layer of 3 mm foam in the top of the helmet, and some thicker foam and helmet pads at the front and rear to prevent the helmet tilting.

Good to hear you’re almost done! I used two chicago screws to attach the holster. There’s a piece of abs inside to boot to prevent the screws tearing through the vinyl.

Sorry, I’m not familiar with the Sean Fields files, so I can’t help with that question. Lot’s of people have been modifying or replacing some parts with more accurate versions, so there is some variation in builds. This build has made it to Vanguard after some mods.

Yes, I think the shirt should be darker. Compare it with this picture: The collar and buckle placement looks good, good job on that! The shoretrooper forearms have 12 recesses as stated in the CRL, yours have 10.

Thanks Joe, great side by side comparison! Comfort and the steep price of the Sheev shirt made me stick with the IB shirt (I have two of them). Replacing the black mesh with the correct grey mesh is still on my wish list. I had already replaced the velcro with a zipper.

I got mine from Rob Kittell. He as a website where you can order from (https://imperialissue.com)

Welcome Will, looking forward to your build! A note on the shirt though, the vertical ribs should be the same color and fabric as the horizontal ribs on the shirt. From the CRL: The neck seal bib has vertical ribbing and the bib is the same colour and material as the undershirt. The black ribs were allowed in the past, but this has been changed quite a while ago. Unfortunately not all vendors keep up with current standards.

Looks amazing, as always Paul!

Congrats Joe, great job!

Looks great! Interesting technique!

Helmet is looking better! Weathering is still a bit heavy, but there’s room for personal preference. Good job on making the lens!

The shirt is great value, good quality ribs and if you replace the velcro in the back with a zipper that zips down even approvable for level 2. The mesh in the arm pits is black, but we currently have no requirement that it must be grey. The pants are thin, making them look a little baggy, but good enough for basic approval. Gloves, approvable for level 2. They are thinner then the Endor Finders gloves (which have a liner), making them more comfortable to wear in my opinion. I did had issues with the seam of the elastic wrist band getting loose, so I had to fix that a few times. Boots, approvable for basic (level 2 must be Orca Bays). If you plan to do a lot of trooping I recommend getting the Orca Bays, they are a lot more comfortable to wear. The soles are much higher quality. And also more accurate 😉. Belt, approvable but not that great. The stitching is too thick.

Yeah it’s heavy so that’s why it’s staying in my transport box most of the time 😃. The main body is solid, but there are several details that feel a bit fragile. I wouldn’t let kids handle the blaster. A few remarks for level 2, you’re correct the buckle needs to be silver. There has to be a swivel lug on the other side of the blaster too. This bolt should not be sunken but a round headed hex bolt. The blaster has a red strip. In that case we expect you to have the hero version with working leds behind those strips, at the tip of the hengstler counter, and behind the flashlight. If you don’t have the leds the red strip must be removed to make it a stunt blaster. Check out FarEast’s Vanguard application, he had similar issues with his blaster.

Totally agree. Less.is more 😉.

To correct the tips you can make a small cut on the outside and top of the collar, then you can bend the collar outwards to the correct angle. Glue some abs inside to fixate the angle. I had to do this too on my BSP collar, although I had to correct it in the opposite direction so my cut is on the inside of the collar. To adjust the height of the tips make a template using cardboard or paper and cut abs pieces and glue them inside the collar. Then fill everything with a follar. I recommend gluing magnets in the tips, I works perfectly to lock the collar to the chest.

I have never seen anyone dye the chin cup and strap, most just replace the strap with black webbing. Interested if using dye will work too.

I think the circle is approvable but ultimately that is your GML’s decision. Maybe you can find a ring with a smaller diameter and glue that inside and fill the remaining gap. The recesses by the shoulder box are a level 2 requirement, so optional if you’re aiming for basic. The original costume is not vac formed, these recesses are an intentional design choice. No suggestion for the collar. Like Mickey said, the collar on the various kits are very different so it’s not likely to get them to fit without modification. So I would just modify the collar that came with your kit. I used plastic bumper filler to modify my BSP collar and make it solid. I use magnets to connect it to the chest.