Southscout

Hi Will, amazing work! The GM is one of the costumes I'm considering as my next build. Just out of curiousity, how much is a full set? Can't wait to see your helmet build

Just so you don't stare yourself blind on the side buckle: From: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9508&st=20

Great! Every journey starts with a small step

Great progress! You'll want to move out your pouches though, put them at the edges of the ribbing on the bund. You seem to have plenty of space there.

I taped my helmet up in a cut-open plastic bag with masking tape on the ears from the inside. Then I spray painted it with black plasti-dip.

Ok, got some here: (btw, look how shiny the bund looks on the guy on the right ) If you have any other shot in mind Marcel, let me know and I'll get it for you.

I can probably arrange some. I'll try later tonight.

I always lace mine up as well (they're made by Marcel). I walk funny otherwise...

Looks great! I would hitch up the bund a bit so it doesn't poke out underneath the belt. But I also see that it rides quite high up in your armpits... Maybe fold it in the top, or cut off a bit? I saw that you've also noticed that. I shortened mine by sewing a line 1/4" from where I wanted the new edge, then I cut the bund around 1" from that line, folded in the two parts sticking up and sewed that up. I see that your T-bits are on backwards (I had to say this since I've never been able to spot that before ) The areator on your helmet should be all black, or maybe at least blacker. And the greeblie on your TD has to be swapped to the correct type. All in all, nothing you can't handle in less than an evening

Just because you're finished, doesn't mean that you will be "finished". There are always more things to do.

I don't think ABS melts very well, at least not to a state where it can be re-used. There's a short tutorial over at FISD that explains the process on how to create ABS paste: http://www.whitearmor.net/fisd/HOWTO:ABSpaste

Well, it's not a requirement anywhere as far as I can see. The CRLs just state a single rivet. So you can be calm.

If the bracket is not visible, then you can use whatever you want. There are no requirements on how you do stuff, just how it looks in the end

Oh, how we have been waiting on new updates from you Terry Good luck, and good luck with the baby! Good thing, you'll have plenty of early mornings so you can do more

Welcome at last

No idea about that. What I did was I cut off the end of a couple of rivets until I got one that looked like it's been popped, then I just put in a drop of E6000 in the hole in the plate, added a washer, and put the rivet in the hole. My plate is glued on to the tank,so the rivet is mainly for show, in my case of course.

Agree good job. But you want a washer for the rivet on the tank. Like this (from SCs page): http://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/images/washko_023_scout_backpack01.jpg

Except for the color, how does this look? I have some work shoes from this company which I've had for years, but it's just now that I noticed that the arch is pretty big. Their entire line up can be seen here: http://www.ejendals.se/1216.php#doWCM=getProducts,pageid=1216,itemgroup=,top=115,pagingpage=1

Screengrabs can help us, and also the MOM pictures, but since parts are moving around and missing in some shots etc, with the Lancer spec we should not only strive for accuracy, but also consistency. I.e a standard with what we believe is the correct look, and where everyone who reaches it looks the same to a great extent. So whenever something is not exactly 100% proven, a concensus has to be reached on how we want a certain part to look (for instance with the T-bits) for the Lancer status. I think that everyone still wants it, but maybe it should be given a bit of an overhaul to reflect the latest findings. Just my two cents. EDIT: and when the book "Making of Return of the Jedi" comes out late this year, all hell will break loose again

Yes, I kind of lost interest in this a bit since the debate didn't really take off. I would gladly see it taken to a vote to get the general feeling about it. And as I wrote before, I do understand the 'trickiness' in specifing this. I.e what is shiny? As for the picture from the blu-ray, it could also be argued that this might be a non-screen used part, however I personally think that it's a bit too well done with weathering and everything. And if someone re-did it, why not use the original material that is probably easier to find.

I fully agree. I guess there could be some issue with on how the TD is fastened, but if it's required I think we will see more innovative solutions. What I however can't understand is why we specify the clip in the lancer CRL. It's not seen anywhere, so it's probably thought up by someone who made their armor a while back and then it became a sort of standard. Maybe the text should just go away, "Fastened in the back with no visible part" is basically the requirement. And I agree with Marcel, it's fun to be in a detachment where we are getting really detailed. It will be fun over the coming years here when we start to see more 3D-printing of armor parts, more detailed screenshots maybe etc. Tip of the lance, as it's said

Nice picture Terry! I saw similar pictures over at FISD and MEPD, but it never struck me that we lack something similar. Can't this pic be pinned below the CRL? And maybe one picture that has arrows to some details like 25mm closure on the boots, 50mm closure on the bund, etc etc.

No experience, but they look big. They're 10x10x4 cm, whereas the Aker is 7x9x2.5. It weighs 293g and the Aker 200g. Spec-wise they look ok, maybe 15W is a it too much, the AKER is 10W and it's loud when needed.

Here you go: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=7393

Yes, remember to buy some sew-on velcro for that. If you try to sew in the adhesive kind you'll run into problems. The glue sticks to the needle, which makes the needle stick to the thread, which will not work very well.