Southscout

You look absolutely great! Outstanding job! Just some comments on your points: Yup, you need those. Fuzzy on the undersuit and the other one on the plastic. remember to clean the surfaces. A nice smooth surface is what you need (i.e no sanding) I keep my helmet closed, it just doesn't open up very well. It's not a requirement, so velcro it in place Noooooooo... There's no need, they should be 'rivety' in color Amen to that, I was at a con this weekend, had my Aker turned up to maximum (!) and people still said "What??". I made button holes in the undersuit, the vest and one of the pouches to pull the wire through. If you get a tiny MP3 player you can also use the scout audio loop that's available here somewhere.

Yes, separate. But to help things to stay where they're supposed to, you can add a piece of velcro both in the front and in the back. Just 2" or so. Skickat från min LG-D802 via Tapatalk

If you're looking at racing sites for suits, also check mechanic's suits. I have an OMP one, and it didn't require much modification. Skickat från min LG-D802 via Tapatalk

Looks great. As the others say, the gap is OK. It's only us that notices as well ;-) For your shoulder bridges I recommend having a piece of elastic and velcro to hang the shoulder bells on. MC should have given you instructions for that. Otherwise just shout out and we can show you. Skickat från min LG-D802 via Tapatalk

Great! I was hugely disappointed with the ROTJ book that came last year. TB's where hardly mentioned in it. Skickat från min LG-D802 via Tapatalk

I haven't seen a painted MLC, but I've seen a painted MC, and it was craaazy sweet looking. Skickat från min LG-D802 via Tapatalk

Yes, you need 3.2mm (metric units FTW! ) washers otherwise you'll just pull the rivet through it. Skickat från min LG-D802 via Tapatalk

Today most bunds goes from the chest armor straps to the bottom of the belt. Gino's pics shows it as ending on top of the belt, basically down to the bottom of the pouches.

Has anyone tried to make the bund shorter yet? I've got a spare bund lying around and I'm considering it myself, but since everything is held up with carefully placed velcro I need to also think about adding or removing some of that.

Is there anything more mind blowing on the backside?

I'm just amazed... Do you have shots of the back side as well? And another bund question, are you saying that the belt only covers the codpiece, and that the bund part actually ends above it?

They should actually be a bit flat :-) Skickat från min LG-D802 via Tapatalk

Are these kits available now? Skickat från min LG-D802 via Tapatalk

You can already now get your boots done, and why not build a blaster while you're at it?

I also did what Arnie did. And I have a normal bolt there with a wingnut on the inside.

Looks nice But, the back looks a little wonky doesn't it? The indentations are a bit spread apart, and the two leftmost are not separated at all.

Chair seat foam. It was exactly 2" thick so it fit perfectly. I have also cut out a hole in one which exactly fits an Aker amp together with the cables and connections, so it just slots in there. It doesn't muffle the sound much either. The cable is then slotted through a button hole in the back of the pouch.

Hey, you just followed the duct tape flow chart: Does it move? Yes Should it? Yes No problem [*]No Duct tape [*]No Should it? Yes WD 40 [*]No No problem

Your legs might be a bit loose, so see if you can tighten them up a bit. They will probably wrinkle under the elastic that you will have. And then, the camel toe... Check around for some options on that. It will bug you in the end (just because I pointed it out now ).

It's hard to tell, but have you done a big X on the velcro closure in the back? The pattern commonly used has that, but it should not be there (and you don't need it). The smaller X in the bottom will be covered by the belt, so that's ok. Otherwise, what Terry says, a bit of foam in the cod is always good, and it could go a (teeeeny) bit higher up.

Either way works for the pouches. I have mine on the chest armor. As for the vest and the bund, the usual recommendation is to add 4 pieces of 2-3" of velcro to the vest and 4 pieces on the bund. I have it and couldn't live without it :-)

Welcome pathfinder!

Awesome! There sure is a demand for these in Europe as well And if you can make a vest like that, the riding patches and mudflap will be a breeze.

Looks good. But just to reiterate on the bund length. It should not show below your belt, and the belt is a tad too low IMHO.

Great choice! I'll try to give my 5 cents on a couple of questions. - Paint the inside with black Plast-Dip spray. The rubbery surface is good for not letting sweat gather up. Just tape up the helmet in a plastic bag and spray away. - Yes, the face doesn't close really flush. You can either try to modify it or add some velcro to keep it shut. You also have some adjustment possible with how hard you tighten the bolts. - The ACH pads you list seems good. Add some velcro on the inside to fasten them on. You don't need a liner on it, it doesn't show. And it's very individual how you place the pads since we all have different head shapes. - If you want to, and can find them, you can change the bolt covers quite easily. It will require some dremel work if you want to keep using the bolts supplied by MC. I did it, and my wife can't understand why I spent $10 on getting a small indentation on the bolts - The mesh in the ears is not really needed. If it's painted black on the inside, and your'e wearing a black balaclava, it will be quite.. eeh.. black. - Regarding painting by a body shop there has been people here doing it. Just search around and you will most likely find it. Good luck!