Southscout

Velcro is the solution. One piece of adhesive velcro on the armor part, and a corresponding piece sewn on to the flight suit.

I think so, it's generally referred to as being a "darker grey".

The rivet goes in from the top with a washer. I myself took a rivet and just "popped" it with the gun, not inserted in anything. Then I cut off the bottom part, added a drop of E6000 in the hole on the tank topper, and just glued it in place. Take a look at Pandatroopers build as well: http://forum.bikersc...topic=9781&st=0 Check Pandatroopers SC build thread again, he has good pictures on how to do it: http://forum.bikersc...opic=9781&st=40 . He uses E6000 and a heat gun. E6000 you can find, either on EBay or some online store. I think the SC instructions contains a picture on how to do this. I know Morten copied it for his build, so check his thread "back home" at NG: http://www.nordicgar...hp?f=102&t=5858 Also, I think the velcro solution is also acceptable for Lancer, but I'll let Marcel or someone answer on that. EDIT: oh, and put up a build thread! You know the saying, without pics it didn't happen

I don't see any mudflap in the picture from behind either. Maybe your shoulders could be brought up a bit as well.

The black #21 I used for the aerator tip, remember to thin it a bit and give it a couple of coats (the first one will make you cry). I think I've seen somewhere here that the AD #5 is too dark for the snout, do a search on "Humbrol" and give it a look. It's good for the chest detail however.

I tried to fit my AKER under the chest plate (MC armor), but it was too thick so it wasn't comfortable at all. what I did now was to sew button holes (to avoid tearing) in my flight suit, one in the vest, and then one at the back on of the pouches. The holes are big enough to get the cable through and are very easy to make if you have a sewing machine that supports it (I think most of them does).

Exactly. The CRL states cotton so that is the only thing clearable by a GML, and since the CRLs are definitive requirements and not recommendations, there's not much a GML can actually do. Just to shake things up, one can actually pose the question on why the CRL states cotton? The only thing we 100% know for sure is that it's white. But my intention is not to raise hell on these boards, it's just to get some good opinions up in the air. What I do understand is that is very hard to define something called "a shiny material", since the sheen is very different between fabrics. But I think we should try to keep an open mind and try to define this one way or another if we as a detachment can reach a consensus on the allowed materials. I write materials in plural as I also understand that it's very hard for us to just change the CRL to state something that we can't really say what it is. Nylon comes in hundreds of variants, so it's a very hard requirement to nail down, so of course we need to also allow other materials, like cotton. But, we need to start this somehow, get some fresh ideas in, comments from people knowing fabrics, etc. For that I need help of the detachment. Lastly, what we should keep in mind is that so much is cleared out on our costumes that where down to the very finest details, and we should be proud of that

*bump* on this topic, since the debate/discussion is not really going anywhere.

This tutorial was so fun, I did it twice! One cod piece for my new shiny bund, and one that I will put on my existing MP-bund.

I did like this: - put the webbing belt around you, and tape it or secure it behind you - fit the plastic belt so it sits good and mark where you want the rivets to go at the end of the plastic - drill holes in the belt where the rivets are supposed to go with a proper drill bit (i.e. same size as your rivet) - with an awl or something sharp, make a hole in the webbing where the rivet should go. Don't cut it or it will fray around the hole, so try to keep the fabric undamaged. - insert the rivet, add a washer on the back (if you don't have one you can make it from a coin for instance) - fasten the rivet with a rivet gun - cheer and start considering if you want a fastex clip in the back, or the velcro-solution Here's a picture of my belt:

Gold Five: Stay on target.

A little *bump* on this thread since I think we need to discuss the material choices a bit more. Some pics "stolen" from Studiocreations to show both the sheen and the weave: Let the debate begin...

You want enough to be able to cut out this: One piece which is (2 x height of bund + 1-2") times (chest measurement + 2" for closure + 1-2") Two pieces for the cod piece that are 12" x 10" including seam allowance In my case the width of the fabric was 60", so I could "stack" all the pieces on top of each other. Based on the above I would then need at least 37". I hope it helps, otherwise just ask more

This thread is always an amazing read As for the painting, I always heat my spray cans in as hot water as I can get out of the faucet (it's around 45 degress centigrades, I have no idea what that is in Fahrenheit however...). To boil it seems like a good way to get something exploding... Anyway, by letting it sit in the hot water for maybe 10 minutes (sometimes I have to refill it since the can cools down the water) the paint comes out more fluid and it dries much quicker since the thinner evaporates much faster.

Just to add a picture on how it looks finished: And here's how it looks with Pandatroopers little cod-piece (is that a plastic insert or are you just happy to see me...)

Just to "wrap up" this thread, here's the finished bund. Comments on the material? I posted a short how-to on how I did it here: http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=10334

Paint or some other solution would do the trick as long as the plastic is not brittle or cracked. To call it trash after just some discoloration is probably a bit too harsh A quick googling gave me a couple of results like this one: http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/how-to-whiten-yellowed-plastic/

So, I thought Id start off the year with a little how-to on how I made my new cummerbund. I call it basic since I'm nowhere near the pros, but the bund turned out nicely enough in my own opinion The bund is made out of beaver nylon, similar to nylon cordura from what I have heard. It's shiny, still a bit heavy looking, and nice to work with. I started out with the popular pattern found around here: http://wallofshemp.f...und_Pattern.jpg First I measured myself to get the corrent height and length. For the height I measured from the bottom of my belt, to the top of the chest armor straps, since that's where I want it to end. When measuring the length, remember to add 2 inches for the back closure. Also add around 0.5" for seam allowance. I then drew up the outline on my fabric. To get perfect angles in the corners, I used our old friend Pythagoras, i.e calcutated the diagonal measurement and then made sure that the intersections between the diagonal and the vertical matched up, then it was a perfect 90 degree angle. I drew my front and back piece "together" along the longer seam. that way I only had to cut out one piece of fabric and there's one less long stich line to worry about. A good tip here is to not cut it to the correct length, instead add 2-3 inches to the end, just to make sure that it's no too short. Remeber the batting adds around 1/2 to your circumference. After this I folded the fabric and laid out the batting on top. I wanted my batting to end just inside the stichline for the velcro so it's a bit shorter than the fabric. This is so I don't get the closure looking too thick. So this is how it looked now: Then I just sew the bottom, and one end, together and folded it inside out. After making sure that the batting didn't crumble up anywhere, I added two stichlines, one on the top and one on the bottom, around 1/2" from the edge. This secures the batting along the other (top) line. This is visible in the picture below. Now it was time for the velcro on the right side of the pattern. It was simple to add, just fastened it with pins and sewed it down. Since I had my batting the right length, I fastened it on the right side as well when I fastened the velcro. After a measurement check, I cut the left end 1 inch longer than it is supposed the be, folded the extra inch and placed it under the velcro that goes on the other side. Remember, they are on different sides. Then this side was fastened, again the batting went under the stich line so it was fastened again. Then came the dreaded ribs, but some careful measurements and just working slowly with the sewing maching did the trick. I made mine 1" apart, and marked them on the back side. With this, the bund part was done. I have in parallell followed Pandatroopers excellent how-to on the cod piece, so no need to repeat that. But here it is: http://forum.bikersc...?showtopic=9972 A short test-fit before making the ribs, and finishing the cod piece: Since the groin strap is sewed onto the cod piece, I attached some velcro on the other end of the elastic, and a corresponding piece on the inside of the bund. My cod piece is attached with velcro on the back of my bund, not for any specific reason, I just liked to idea to be able to remove it if needed. Lastly, 2 small pieces of velcro where added, one in the front, and one on the back of the bund, and corresponding peices added to the belt. That way I know that the bund will never slip below the belt and vice versa. Finished back side, notice the small velcro piece on the outside: And finished front, also with the belt velcro: Only thing remaining now is to add velcro top the top of the bund and to the flightvest so it stays up since I want to avoid my previous suspender-solution. Anyway, I hope this helps anyone out there looking to make their own bund. It took me maybe 8-10 hours of work including the cod piece. Material cost was around $70, but the fabric is quite expensive, and I had to order polystyrene, get glue spray etc.

Cool! I want a transparent one with blinking lights

Just a thought, does anyone know what the material used for the arms on the flak vests is called? could it be that, but in white?

Thanks Rob. I'll go ahead with this little project to see how it ends up.

Just had a rear occasion of sunlight, so I took another picture:

Hi guys, after the discussions here http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9637&st=80 on the shinier bund material I have started making a new bund in beaver nylon. It's still ongoing, velcro, ribs and codpiece is missing (I'm following Panda's 'no camel toe' how to). But what do you think about the material? It's shiny as Chefs (although my GML says it's too shiny...) and it's a bit thicker. And a reference pic: What do you think? Looks ok, or simply discard and never consider again?

Yes, definitively. Have the bund high enough so that it's fully covered by the strap.

Thanks Marcel, and thanks everyone for this great year which was my first, out of many :-D