Jump to content

Griffin-X

501st Legion (In Memoriam)
  • Posts

    6,808
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    188

Everything posted by Griffin-X

  1. According to mine (a DLT-19): 24" for the longest barrel ? 2" for the smaller barrel ? 5.5" for the stock ?
  2. Basically, you just need the measurements for a WWII German MG-34. That's the base weapon that was used. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MG_34
  3. I also do not have this issue. Mostly, because I rarely holster my blaster. It's always in my hand! But, when I do, my DUFF blaster sits nicely in the holster with no sag.
  4. You got a good one Dylan. It came to me right before all of the issues began with KS and their molds.
  5. The mesh is optional, and yep I did it! But, it can easily be removed. This is how I did my MLC3 lid:
  6. I use Krylon primer and then follow-up with Krylon gloss white. When I paint in black, it's Krylon primer and then Krylon black. If I want/need a really shiny appearance, I follow-up with a Krylon clear coat. I go with a 24 hr cure time for primer and a 48 hr cure time for colors. That process seems to work well for me. Like Chef, I too had a terrible experience with Rustoleum. A few months back, I painted a Tie helmet (primed then gloss black). It looked awesome and I was really pleased with it. Then I added a second coat of gloss black and WHAM...orange peel all over the place. It sucked and pretty much ruined all the work on the bucket. So, never again with Rustoleum...ever.
  7. Sounds like orange peel on the paint. I ran into this with Rustoleum and now only use Krylon. I'm not sure what paint you are using but some require 24-48 hours before a respray. Others have a timeframe of 24 hours, but if you miss it, you have to wait like 72+ hours.
  8. I have used dish soap on mine, similar to what Marcel has mentioned. In the end, once I removed the mesh from the ears, that helped a ton. So...if you have mesh on the ears, yank that out!
  9. Yeah, I'm a Krylon guy...works for just about anything that needs painting.
  10. Very nice, and opens up so many possibilities!
  11. I've enjoyed my KS lid for the last 2+ years. It's lightweight and durable without any noticeable fading or discoloration. I did recently acquire an MLC3 lid though, so that's what I'm using these daze.
  12. I think you are very close on the visor cutout. You could trim a wee bit more off the top portion and maybe a little around the nose portion, but not too much.
  13. Welcome to the Bikerscout.net site! Thanks for the post and information Gino. We're very glad to have you here with us.
  14. Yep, a proper MLC3 helmet now. Lou did a stellar job on it.
  15. Great work Eddie, you have done a great job getting this updated. Only comment: flip the greeblies on the TD, those are backwards (round part goes on the right).
  16. IMO...the top Black portion should be more round. It's really close but does not quite come up high enough.
  17. Thanks for posting this information. I know it'll help others from being tricked into getting this junk. We are all here to help, and glad to do it. Most of us have had experiences too, some good, and some bad. All in all, it forms the basis for our experience level in costuming. Although I'm sorry you dealt with this guy, I am glad it was not too bad and you did not overly spend your hard earned income. You have a great attitude and that will take you far!
  18. He's buying crap armor from Armor-Depot.com, a known recaster, and then reselling it with his "mods" on it. So, to recap, buying a turd, polishing the turd with stoopid wax, then reselling it to an unsuspecting victim. Bad, bad, bad...! BTW...Armor-depot.com is... Admin Name: Dustin Slead Admin Organization: Armor Depot LLC Admin Email: karissawhitehill@hotmail.com
×
×
  • Create New...