TB-7076

I bought them from a german ebay source for 14,- €. The brand was GEO but it seems they're only sold during summer season or out of production. The problem with these boots is - while quite close to the original in some aspects - it is only available in european women sizes 35-42. I had quite some problems to fit in the 42 so I'm going to switch with version 2. Palladium boots may be my next choice. Another problem with the Geo Boots was the height of the heels being too low and the comfort during longer events. So definately only a choice for girls and men with tiny feet!

I have a suede lining for my leather boots. As they're made to my sizes they also fit tight. Though I have a rubber blaster atm it probably may take more weight. I actually wnt that more complicated route to avoid loose fit as most scout boots seem to suffer from. Here is what it looks like complete http://www.madphisto.net/endorphil.jpg

I just wet my pants....simply gorgeous. I will examine it closely as always but I'm just amazed how pretty and authentic this build came out. Only thing I personally dislike is how the visor seems to fall off the right side but maybe that is due to the mentioned difficulties in assembling the helmet. Definately the right decision to expand the snout and the side view looks much better now that the proportions and alignment of visor and dome got reworked and optimized. If you ask me - the Ferarri among the replica scout helmets out there! I take a bow.

@ ski This is a general rule of thumb. That this why I always chose the most practical solution. We have the same problem with other parts of the costume and various different sources such as Behind The Scenes and PR material often using test fits shootings etc as well as exhibition shots and of course screen shots of the actual movie. Probably the best example for confusion and realistic vs. practical improvisation is the mounting of the boot holster. The test fit shots show strapping and therefore lead to strapping in collection figures such as Hasbro and Gentle Giant while on screen and on exhibition we see them rivetted to the bootleg. Bottom line: We can also get lost in scientifics around the costumes and that is a reason why i.e. 501st standards and even artisan are kept more general. In the end it is important which is everyones's goal and personal philosophy. There are three major branches in costuming: 1. casual those getting things done at the minimum up to average levels. Stuff is recognizable but more is left to be desired. 2. ultra screen accurate those depicting every little aspect even production dependend macule (single paint ships, dents, gaffer tape etc.) of a costume class or if possible single character costume (see Devin Felth recreations and theories). 3. idealized those trying to get things as accurate as possible but also put an emphasis on improving techniques, shapes and looks to resemble an archetype more concentrating on the illsuion/vision of the designers rather than the realism of prop building tied to deadlines, minimum budgets and accidents. All these groups will draw different conclusions and consequences regarding their costume recreation. Some for the better some for the worse . The problem we have with so many question marks left and variations within the costumes seen on screen (even different CGI appearances of one character) is - we can't be 100% sure regarding specific details. The good thing is - in most cases these details are not characteristic and don't suffer from different interpretations. Strapping of the Scouts is such a minor element if you ask me .

If this Phil is meant I'm not sure what to start . What we already knew is that there was a strap leading from the bell to the shoulder part of the toros armor. I don't want to repeat MonCal here. It is obvious and weather MonCals technique is 80 or 100% correct may be something to debate but the base idea seems to be a fact. If I understand Hexxenhammer correctly it suggests a system similar to that of the TK which was connected by one strap with the shoulder part of the back and chest plate via snap button and one strap glued/velcroed at the bottom sides of the shoudler bell. Just that he thinks that unlike the TK type strapping going round the arms might be tighter maybe even not attached to the ends of the bell but more like a noose maybe fixed at one point in the lower middle of the bell. That is not a bad theory...in this context two shots: We see something which might be a thin rubber cord We see something broader than a cord being more dark than the overall which might be a strap As interesting as these observations are - the problem is that most of the photo references we have are shot in bad lighting conditions or are too grainy and blurred to be sure. But to be honest in small (hidden) details like that I tend to chose the most practical and stable solution. I hope I didn't disappoint witness

Always glad to help

My soft parts were made by a professional atelier doing costumes for theatres etc. which is located near my place. I had the opportunity to have a long briefing session with them and except one detail I'd like to change in the next version they did a fantastic job. It helps a lot if you can work with professionals directly, discussing the details using drawings, prints and models of the object. Also the possibility to get myself sized and the components test fit on location has lead to optimal results. I also opted for a vest cummerbund combination and the previously mentioned alterations which allow for a better fit, best possible comfort and in my opinion is more practical under various event conditions. You can see my reasoning and show case of these parts here And yes with SFT or SFP I refer to that source as only abreviations are allowed for non licensed stuff

My vest uses the sleeve technique as shown in the STF example. I think it helps the movement a bit. Even from the MOM shots I got I couldn't tell weather these sleeves were divided into two or even more sections or not - some shots may suggest it on the other hand these can be also natural folds. The only thing that is quite obvious is the ribbing for the sleeves. I myself decided to adapt the segment pattern for the sleeves shown in the STF examplet. I'd be interested though what is correct and what inspired the creators of the alternate pattern . My V.2 will also feature ventilation mesh or holes under the axles which also aren't a screen accurate feature but necessary in performances lasting longer than 6 hrs. . Currently there is only a mesh under the chest armor as my vest is made of polyester to be water resistant. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get the same material in white - so it is heavy canvas to match slightly in behaviour and qualities.

I don't know what Espree is - I think that was an artificial name for the replicas before they were sold by SA on ebay. The one you describe as having shorter gauntlets is the screen accurate one. When you put it on it you will realize they fit quite close and therefore appear longer than laying flat on a desk. It's also a perspective thing and the body frame. See my scout costume with original esprit gloves versus screenshots. Sometimes mine appear longer sometimes shorter depending on movement, wrinkling and perspective.

It is proper sized compared to the original unlike most replicas based more or less on the Don Post/altman figures or actual buckets of that origin. Personally I think despite many improvements in V2 is a bit too boxy missing some of the more organic shapes and might need more refinement. I cannot say anything regarding quality of the material and paintjob.

Those are probably just another generation of the same base pattern. During my quest for appropriate substitutes I came across several different manufacturers using similar patterns and also different generations of these. What might be a problem with these is the more visible artifacts removing the velcro and branding. I've experienced this with another type of glove as well. But even considering the minor trade offs it is a better choice than the replica as that one doesn't have a real extension flap underneath the zipper. It only has a border there creating the illusion as if there was something indicated by the V shape. Still there it doesn't achieve the depth of the original functional counterpart.

I also have the Esprit gloves with originally tan suede dyed black. For basic and even advanced requirements it is not important weahter the gauntlet is 1/4 " smaller or longer than the other model or dyed or originally black... Those are details for ultra screen "accurazies" and of course interesting to know but not that relevant as long as the features are spot on. If you got lucky to get your hands on esprit gloves matching the model specifics which is hard enough I wouldn't bother at all. It will be still more acurate than the replica available. Here are mine as they came and dyed (now with time more greyish):

Here is what I did to my helmet in a hush to get it at least acceptable to some degree - new decals (MC) - new snout (MC) - new lens - new bolts (original m3 bolt) - screws to keep mask and blinders in shape - removal of the production/licence marking This is what it looked like prior to the modifications: http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_base01.jpg http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_base02.jpg http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_base03.jpg http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_base04.jpg http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_base05.jpg http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_base06.jpg http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_base07.jpg And this is how it looks today: http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_mods01.jpg http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_mods02.jpg http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_mods03.jpg http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_mods04.jpg http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_mods05.jpg http://www.madphisto.net/myscout/2009_04_DP_mods06.jpg And here is a direct comparison with an almost unchanged rubies and my modified dp during an event we made in cooperation with the local fan force

That is a question how ambitious a costumer is I think. Some feel no shame for nothing . I had a similar problem in the start of 2009 when all of a sudden all my stuff was available except the helmet. As I've owned a Don Post classic for more than ten years I opted to modify and wear it to finally wear the costume after 5 years of development. Unfortunately this "stand in" is still in use as I stoped finishing my MLC v3 once the new helmet project ny lonewolf kicked off. The out of the box Rubies helmet is really a horrible thing to look at if you're into the characters. Probably most of the audience will never realize most of the errors that most of our costumes even within the 501st do feature. I myself regard myself responsible to not misportray my favourite character so I've never thought of using the Don Post right out of the box without proper modifications. Still there are people who think different and do it different and wear it just as it came. I never invested much efforts in my DP as I knew it wouldn't be my final bucket and actually it was meant as a replacement for one event only (now it's been in service for one and half year). But the few touches can make a quite difference.

Yeah I say that the whole time - Hope to see progress but take your time. I'm more interested in good results than quick updates

Have already reserved a 3M liner and ordered new extra bolts *cough, cough*

I think the visor doesn't align so well with the ears - in the original both shapes are corresponding. I guess this is due to the low poly count you're using but that's part of the plan (prepakura right?). But maybe you can do something that the borders of the shape is better aligned, the smooth part you will have to add later wehn modeling over the paper model. It looks a bit too squeezed in the front view - I'm not sure weather it is the 3Dmax viewport that screws up (perspective distorion) or it is a flaw caused by the lens distortion of the photograph (FIDM Front view).

I developed it with the help of a friend who build it; Mastershigerit who should be also member on this board. It was the first helmet to feature the correct range finder box on the helmet. As it's fiberglas and material costs in germany generally are higher it is a more rare sight in the legion. Scout of course

I sued a more natural looking method to get my AT-ST helmet weathered movie style but also looking authentic not only on pictures. Is used oil-chalk and coal to mix it simulating the smoke . As the helmet is made from fiberglas I was able to apply real damage with a screw driver. I also used ink and dry brush techniques known form model assembly and minature painting. The result is very convincing as it recaptures the movie representation but is realistic for the audience not that recognizable as fake like spray paint puffs. I'm going a similar route once my scout is completely finished.... Here is apicture:

The SWIC/FIDM Helmet is definately the most ideal reference to go with as long as optimal shape and looks of a scout helmet is concerned (minus the wrong bolt cap on the right seide ). And Lonewolf is very close already. You know it's been quite a time I was so amazed visiting BSN but this will turn in one of the milestones in its history and that of proper Scout costuem replication.

That's why I asked if it were possible to simulate the same distance and angle as in the SWIC shot so we can be sure. I know that depending on camera and situation everything looks different and if it was just due to lens distortion. Same applies to original references. The lids weren't equal - for example the first scout we se in the scene on endor has a more flared visor while most of the PR shot and exhebition helmets have a visor having an even more forced curve forward. However the ears of DP derivates and the ears of the original still have a different angle to the front; even the back bulge features a noticable different in shape. In the end everything we do is just an approach. I wish I could take a flight and help

Yeah don't get frustrated we just want to use the chance to encourage you as long as you're improving it anyways . Do you need a sketch for the ears or did you see what I see? I mean it's hard to tell from the different angles of the comparison pictures as they're shot from slight different angles. But that's probably the reason why original helmet shots feature much more prominent ear profiles from the fornt than any replica helemts - as almost all of them use the DP as a starting point/reference.

The forehead is pretty much dead on if you ask me. In the SWIC picture a good deal of the forehead top is covered by the visor but it is there if you follow the virtual shapes and lines. The DP has lost a lot of his forehead area due to the extreme upper bow of the lens frame and due to shrinkage of the vinyl - I guess the mask has been made for older children and adolescents rather than adults so that probably wasn't much of a great concern then.

Could you try to photograph the LW lid in the same angle from above as the SWIC helmet? I think apart from the already known problem with the visor front being pointed I think the ear section is still a bit disproprtional. If I am right the ears need to be extended a bit in width and bent more forward. Again I recommend to try ways or materials to at least get the edges as sharp the DP which is still a bit softer than the original.

I get even more addicted....I hope you have a heart and keep us junkees in mind