Aradun

If you’re posting to the forum via your phone, consider the free version of the Tapatalk app. It’ll allow you to access the forum and post medium res photos straight from your phone into your posts. No additional site like Imgur etc to deal with.

Looking forward to seeing your build come to life! And keep those questions coming once everything is in hand. Where here to help.

Congrats!!!

Congrats!!!

Congratulations Mike and welcome to the team! Awesome news!

In addition to what @BikerScout007 noted above about the scope and Lancer (Level 2) requirements, I believe the L2 review team has been asking that the barrel opening on the front be filled in if present. @Chopper can you confirm?

Before detaching the flap closure, try pressing the flap closure with an iron. You’d be surprised how much that “fluff” is eating into your over all length. Once pressed flat, see how the end lines up and then if needed, you can finagle with letting it out from the back. For now, I would hold off on adding any Velcro to your flight suit to keep your vest from sliding around. You’re probably not going to need it once everything is in place and worn. If you look at the guide below, once the cod and bund are secured to the vest, and chest armor to the bund, that vest won’t be shifting anywhere because everything is pretty much locked in. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/w18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/

This is an old listing. He removed his files from Thingiverse a while back because others were stealing his files and profiting off them. Anyone interested should PM him directly. He’s on the armory team here and is on the forums regularly.

I’ll second the MrPoopie route.

Congrats Scout!

Definitely stick with MrPoopie on this one. That baton from Cults3D is lacking the detailed grip. Justin’s has it.

Congratulations! Don’t forget to request Pathfinder access here: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/forum/162-access-requests/ It opens a whole new area of the forum to you. Once you have access you’ll be able to create a trooping log to earn forum badges and patches for certain milestones. The link is below but you’ll need Pathfinder access to view it, so hop to it Drew and congrats again! https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/forum/141-pathfinder-trooping-awards/

Dude your approval photo is killer! That’ll make for a sweet trading card. Congrats brother and well done!

Keep it rectangular. No taper. First, it will give you a little wiggle room for “growth” and second, wearing it over your suit and vest eats up more space than you’d think. Make sure to follow the tutorial and you’ll be good as gold. https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23966-rotj-scout-cummerbund-tutorial/

Outstanding! Excellent work on the armor so far. I think your build is right up there with the best of them when it come to final look! For your shoulder bell, I’m thinking it’s the angle of the photo, but if not, a slight tightening of the zip tie should even things out. For the fabric that covers the shoulder bridge, if elastic isn’t doing the trick, you can use white cotton webbing, which is a bit thicker and might provide a better bond for the glue. Keep up the great work and don’t be afraid to hit the armory team up with any questions along the way. We’re happy to help.

Congratulations Scout!

Check out this thread. It provides great advice on how to keep things together while you’re trooping. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/w18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/

Looks like you have everything sorted, but for those who stumble upon this thread, I’d pass on the Etsy boots you posted. They look well made but the issue is the base boot. In one photo the soles are a solid tan. In other photos the boots used are different and the soles are two tone, which won’t pass muster with CRL requirements for Level 2 if that’s a goal. You’d have to paint the soles if you received a pair using that base boot. Always good to post up links for sellers so the Armory Team can look things over and provide you with some direction. Kudos for doing that!

Hey Matt! The lens has to be black, even for basic. Green won’t pass muster with your GML.

Congratulations Scout! Welcome to the Pathfinders!

To add to what Chopper has already shared, the belt should sit just below your naval and the bottom of the cummerbund sits on top of the belt. That will give you a sense of where to attach Velcro on the vest to secure the bund. Definitely take a look at the link Chopper provide too. It has excellent advice on how to keep everything in its proper place while trooping. I strongly suggest adding Velcro to the knees. Adjusting the strapping alone won’t keep them from sliding down or rotating out of place but Velcro will.

Gree is correct. What you currently have is fine for basic approval, but keep in mind that if your goal is to eventually go for Level 2 Lancer then the cod cannot be sewn to the bottom of the bund and will need to be fixed down the line. Here the link to the CRL for the ROTJ Scout. If you don’t have a copy, I recommend that you print it out and keep it handy while you work on your kit. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper It’s a great reference guide and takes out the guesswork. Of course the armory team is always here if you have a question or need clarification. Looking forward to seeing how this kit comes together for you!

Looks sweet Brother! Nicely done!

Far Away Creations/MonCal https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063541723701 Chrisx909x here in the forums: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23318-rotj-biker-scout-soft-goods-ongoing/ Wampawear https://wampawear.com A complete list of vendors for the Biker Scout is posted here: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/19003-biker-scout-vendor-list/

SC sells the speaker portion of the snout and the elongated backing plate that is rounded at the top as a single cast piece. If the new resin piece covers the existing snout sticker you should be fine leaving it, but if the sticker protrudes behind the new resin piece, it should be removed.