Aradun

That model would meet the requirements in the CRL for approval, but whether or not it is approved would depend on how you finish the item. You’d need some CA glue or other equivalent to assemble the pieces. Some primer-filler spray paint to prep the pieces for paint. Flat or semi-gloss black spray paint to finish the model and some silver or metallic paint for dry brush weathering. There’s a lot of different ways to finish this, but the above is the most simple for someone new to all of this. Order the DLT19X without the tripod. Don’t order the DLT19X Pro. To meet Legion requirements it either has to have the tripod without the scope (DLT19 version) or the scope and no tripod (DLT19X version). The Pro version isn’t approvable.

Correct on both counts. If they cannot accommodate, reach out to DBay94 on Etsy. He’s in the German Garrison and makes an excellent DLT19X. It’s not listed in his Etsy shop, but if you message him, he’ll get you sorted. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Dbay94?ref=shop-header-name&listing_id=631634387&from_page=listing

Okay, here are my photos. The disks measures about 5/8” and you can see the shape in the photo. The charging handle protrudes 2” from the side of the blaster and is 7/8” in diameter. I’ve included a shot of it’s placement so you know where to install it should you elect to get this model. I’d be hesitant to drill a hole myself because the model is not solid and the drill will likely shift in the open spaces of the fill pattern used in the print. If they can do something for you, it’d be better.

I’ll get measurements and photos for you shortly once I leave work.

The original MG34 measured 1219mm so that's the ballpark you want to be in with any 3D print. The model you are looking at isn't approvable due to the issues noted. You could conceivably add the disk and charging handle. The disk isn't flat, like a washer, but has a convex shape to it, though you could probably get by with an appropriately sized washer. The charging handle is another issue and the more difficult of the two. You might be able to get by with an appropriately sized dowel but securing it to the 3D print will be the real technical challenge. Because it protrudes so far out from the body of the blaster it's likely to get knocked off if improperly secured which may damage the blaster. I'm not sure how you'd mount it securely or if it's even possible.

Do you have a link to the seller’s website?

@BikerScout007 Actually, when I looked at the original request and went to the CRL it does have a level 3, which completely surprised me. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Functioning Blue LED is installed in barrel. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:CB_Kashyyyk_trooper

Excellent. Good luck with your approval.

For how to get proper measurements check out the tutorial below: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/ For fabric you’ll need white Marine Vinyl similar to this: https://www.joann.com/marine-vinyl/4789087.html

Waaay better fit and overall look! Stellar! Great comparison review too! Thank you for taking the time to do that. It’ll be super helpful to future Patrol Troopers.

Congratulations Trooper! Awesome accomplishment!

Hey Nes! The suit doesn’t require any Velcro to be applied for approval. The only thing that impacts approval is what is visible. How one rigs their costume is really a matter of preference. Some don’t use anything, most use Velcro, a few have used magnets. Your suit is fine as is for approval. However, you may want to add Velcro to keep your bicep, forearm, and knee armor in place while trooping. Details on this can be found in the link I provided in post #4 above. However, I would wait until you have everything in hand and are able to try everything on so that you know if you need Velcro and where it should be placed. That would be one of the final things you do.

You can pick up a new holster here: https://studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html As for preventing it from happening again, you can add some ABS behind each of the four corners to reinforce them before drilling them for your rivets.

If you’re switching to white pouches then your belt is fine. The belt is white and the strapping for the drop boxes hanging from the belt appear white as well. You will need to change out the straps running from your chest armor to back armor and the cotton webbing covering the shoulder bridge as you noted above. You are looking for an equivalent to this for the strapping: https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTMEMORE-Inches-Heavy-Cotton-Webbing/dp/B0CGDDNWNP/ I think the route you have chosen is a good one now that we’ve seen the photos. If you were to tea stain your pouches then you would still need to replace your drop box straps to off-white which would involve disassembling the belt - a complicated process and one best avoided. Swapping out the side straps and shoulder bridge covers are much easier tasks.

Post pictures of the strapping and we’ll be able to tell you for sure. If you’re going to switch to white pouches, then yes, everything needs to be white, but the whites don’t need to be an exact match. You just can’t use off-white with white pouches. Honestly Nes, if you get white pouches and use a tea bath to dye them off-white, you won’t need to change any of your existing strapping. That’s the easiest and least expensive remedy to getting new pouches. But, post some pics and we’ll help you dial things in from there.

The zip tie attachment looks fine. You'll just tighten the zip tie if needed once you get things sorted and fine tune the fit. Per the CRL for basic clearance: Under Chest Armor - The chest and back armor join together over the shoulder and the gap covered with a strip of white fabric (the "shoulder bridge"). Under Belt - Drop boxes connect to the belt via white textile straps. If using off-white cummerbund pouches and side straps, the drop box straps are also off-white. Whatever RS has used on the kit for the above should suffice. If you want to post some pics for us to look at to be certain feel free.

Here is the CRL for the Biker Scout: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper You’ll want to refer to this through your build as it contains all the details you need for approval. You’re the second person I know of to note that they received very dark pouches from RS. If you can post a pic, we can check to see if they need to be replaced. However, if the strapping for your drop boxes, which sit on the sides of your hips, are off-white then your pouches need to match in color. If you switch to white pouches, you will need to change the straps for those to white as well and that’s a hassle. If ordering ask for off-white to match. If you can only get them in white then we can show you how to die them off-white using a tea bath. I’m not sure what you mean by opening and closing the bow.

1. How RS had it set up was correct. 2. You slip a black zip tie into the square on the shoulder bell, and then run it through the shoulder bridge. From there you tighten it until the bell is the distance where you want it. 3. That distance isn’t specified in the CRL, but ideally you’re shooting for abt. 3/4” 4. That’s fine as it is. How it appears in the pic good. If your kit from RS already has straps attached to the armor pieces, and the armor is trimmed, then there is really nothing you need to do further other than make adjustments to the strapping if it is too lose or too tight on you.

The original set up provided RS in the image you provided looks like it was ready to wear. The only adjustment you need to make with that setup is to tighten the zip tie to get the shoulders spaced properly. If your heart is set on switching over to the the Velcro method on the recommendation of you garrison mates then use the link provided by Chopper above. It’s an old build but it will show you the method to attach the shoulder bell to the shoulder bridge with Velcro. Be careful about employing other things from that build as there’s been a lot up updates to the CRL since Pandatrooper was approved and somethings may not meet current standards. I personally would recommend that you reinstall the squares and use a zip tie. It’s a much easier set up. You can just apply Velcro to the back of the square and attach it to the Velcro you glued onto your shoulder bell. Easy fix.

Most use the squares and zip ties because it’s actually easier than the old Velcro method. Checkout these two video sources on building your armor. This one is from our Detachment Leader, Bikerscout007, give this one a go first. He shows how to use the zip tie method. RS Props has a whole build series on YouTube on the assembly of their armor. This is the first video of the series. I think there’s about 19 videos in the build series. Lot’s of details in the videos. I’m not sure the state of the armor you have and how much needs to be assembled, but these will help certainly help if you are putting everything together.

@Chopper is there a thread somewhere that shows how to attach the bells to the shoulder bridge using Velcro instead of zip ties? I don’t have anything in my bookmarks.

So, if you’re just looking to add Velcro to the shoulder armor, you’ll want to put a strip of Velcro about just below the seam at the top of the sleeve on your flightsuit where it meets the shoulder. A 3-4” strip running from the back of the arm to the front of the arm will suffice. For the shoulder armor, run a 4” strip of Velcro roughly 1” from top of the bell towards the bottom. Because the Velcro on the bell runs up and down and the Velcro on the flightsuit runs perpendicular, you’ll have plenty of wiggle room to adjust your bells front to back and up or down when you don the armor. My armor is packed away currently, but I’ll be trooping on Monday and can take a photo of the bell if you need it.

Hey Nes. Sorry for bad link. Here’s the one I referenced. https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/ It has everything your looking for regarding where to place the Velcro. Let us know what else you may be looking for, because we can find it pretty quick rather than trying to comb through tons of posts yourself. Take a look at some of the other WIPs. I generally recommend starting with those that have the most views as they generally have a lot of images, details, feedback from the armory team in them.

Hey Nes! Welcome to the Pathfinders! Regarding the shoulder bells, you can do Velcro, but to be honest those little squares RS uses only require a zip tie to secure to the shoulder bridge - that thin strip of armor that goes over your shoulder connecting the back and chest armor. If you do Velcro, the easiest way to add it to the flightsuit is via a glue like e6000, but it may be tough to get in the UK. If you ask around there may be a local equivalent. I used it to glue all of the Velcro on my flightsuit and the hold is still solid after 4 years, 75 troops and several washings. Sewing will likely require you to seem rip the sleeves and legs, but if you plan to do that with a seamstress to take in the suit anyway, then have her add the velcro. Take a look at this thread, you’ll see some of the best places to add Velcro for securing the armor. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/w18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/ When sewing Velcro to the flight suit use the soft side of the Velcro. Place the scratchy side onto the armor. I and many other scouts here have the RS kit, so don’t hesitate to ask any questions. The armory team is happy to help!

For the Mando Scout, there is no specified measurement for the offset of the pouches from the ribs for basic or Level 2.