762s

for the tip .. i was going to send you a message and ask you about the dying you did , product used ect. will check that product out

well, i got(won) them off of ebay friday and they arrived today. i must say wampa wear does a real nice job recreating them! all i mention below are shown in the pics ~ the espirits are in very good condition and come with the original rain protectors tucked away in the gauntlet pouch. ~ the espirits are a size large and the wampa are an extra large .. the wampas fit tight where the espirits are snug but, are not tight like the wampas xl size ~ the espirits fingers are abit more bulky, where the wampas fingers are skinny ~ the zippered triangle area on the top is excatlly like wampa has .. if you where to fold the inner triangle and add a zipper to the wampa gloves in this area they would be just like the espirits ~ the wampas even have the triangle stitch on the thumb like espirits ~ the guantlet pouch on the under side of the gloves is also created on the wampas gloves ~ the wampa glove is abit shorter in overall length(1/2") and this is from the back of the hand area being abit shorter than the espirits ~ the suede on the top is slightly shorter on the wampas too .. espirits suede comes to the piping well, think thats about all i can say ... so, on with the pics

i have seen a couple of the 3m square bolt part stick past the inside of the visor ... and i trimmed the square part what i suggest is keep on assembling the helmet... and when you attach the visor to the helmet if the visor sticks past the helmet and is not flush with it then cut the square part of the bolt also, you might be able to to fill the back side of the head of the bolt area with some scrap plastic(make a washer) to lift it out of the seated area abit ... not sure how far in your bolt is seated but, it might be able to move out abit i would not make the helmet bolt hole any bigger or visor will be moving around all the time... good luck!

i would guess if your not going for lancer then you can cut the belt/boxes and move them around .. make a 3 piece the belt! ONLY lancer status states: "10. Belt Ideally should be made from a one piece construction with no visible gaps, and not separated with fabric in between sections, apart from at the back where the TD box sits. Making any joins in a 3 part belt seamless, is highly recommended." so, with that i think i would cut the belt up into 3 pieces make it fit me(you) and go for basic .. as the basic requirements do not state anything about the belt in the manner lancer does. ideally and highly recommended are stated for lancer but, it doesnt say it has to be that way ... lancer okays a 3 piece belt it just has to be done right and i think there could be some special considerations taken for instances like this. but, thats not my call ... good luck!

have you check out panda props on etsy?

i use a spray can -- dupli-color acrylic enamel -- from advance auto their gloss white and flat black i find it does not have the problems that alot of spray cans have with the paint running/building up to quick and i dont see the gloss hazing over like i have seen with some other sprays which requires a gloss clear coat! and after using the flat black i must say its really nice too ... main positive i can mention is there is no black dust on the item sprayed after the paint dries like other flat based spray paints i have tried leave...... for me, this type of paint is a nice spray paint as you have an hour to respray from your first coat ... this helps as you can lay on multiple very light coats and build up to a nice high gloss finish that does not require a clear coat and again does not have a haze over the finish and reduces the risk for runs. i have sprayed 6 helmets with this paint and i am very impressed with the way it lays down an shines. the only downside to using this type of paint is .... there is a 7 day wait to respray after the 1 hour mark, this is because the paint needs to degas itself .. do not attempt to respray after an hour or you will end up with a horrible orange peel effect show up almost instantaneously ... so, if your going to paint with it, get all your coats done within the hour or plan to wait the 7 days to add more coats. hope that helps and good luck!

i know its not the spec ops section but, its my rs build thread and its a rs kit so .... heres #4 of my rs builds i was going to go with the black on black and after alot of thinking im glad i did not do that ... i think the grey on black looks alot better also, did this with a chrome mirrored lens made from an hjc motorcycle helmet visor a few pics of my shadow scout variant now, a little bit of update with my last 2 rs kit builds as i was not to impressed with the quality of the last 2 kits i recieved: ~ the penciled cut lines looked like they where drunk when they marked the parts up ~ the pulls where pretty bad ... top half of one of the helmets was warped out, visor return on two sections wasnt formed right ~ the plastic pieces where covered in massive layer of black dust ~ the plastic sections didnt match each other, i had 3 different colors of white plastic ... the thickness seemed abit different between the pieces, esp. on one of the helmets as the sections did not line up at all without having a raised edge ~ the plastic was scratched and marred ~ snout greeblie looks like the mold broke off inside the engine fins -- still waiting on a replacement its still been fun to build the kits even with the issues i had with the last 2 builds ...

along with the suede kayelbe mentioned do you have the thigh straps? the drop boxes looks like they could come up some forearm/bicep armor needs adjustment good luck

hahaha ... finally get to see someone with the same issues i drill the holes off center too -- the premade marks are no good! your top view looked like mine until i realized opening the visor full up nicks the paint .. if you look closely at the sa one you posted .. from bolt to where it starts to curve with the helmet is straight for a few inches ... i went this route instead of having a nice tight gap around the visor/helmet POP!! yeah i got that too on my first helmet ... the other 3 builds there is no pop ... my pop is on the right side and not sure where or why its there ?!?!?!? now ... add the 8th vent

they look a little wide. but, not that bad .. could be the squareness of the padding your using too ?!?!?! the height looks decent if you can get he chest armor to come down on top of them abit maybe, some of the seasoned vets can give their advice

heya... those rivets are to secure the headband if you choose to use it.. some prefer to use foam pads. if you want the headband then check strider post here http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=17305&st=60 he shows how to install the headband using those rivets or you can glue it in like i did mine

i bought off amazon and ebay ... bolts and full headband kit showing correct bolts. both times they where new black bolts. i suggest contacting the seller before purchase .. i did and got a reply back that they where using a picture thats was provided by their supplier and they told me to contact 3m for the correct grey bolts!

there are plenty of helmet makers/vendors out there you should be able to find about 7 makers/sellers/vendors of the biker scout helmet just from searching around the forums

that unsettling feeling something was wrong with the size of my pouches is gone thanks for another confirmation!

heya thanks aliaz! .... i forgot to look in the lancer build tut for having a set of pouches to reference from with looking at striders pouches .. my pouches seem to be on point then!

alright using this info here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=7084 there seems to be different measurements given 6" wide x 7" tall and 7" wide x 6" tall 2" - 2 1/2" deep so, what is it? i also understand these are sized to each person but, the pouches i received are: 5" wide x 6" tall x 2" deep without armor how can i tell if the sizing of these pouches will fit for my build? im 5'11" - 32" pant size for waist .. if that helps or if anyone has similar build and can reference their pouch sizes also, i want to be as screen accurate as possible and will be going for lancer so, this is why i am asking about the pouches ... it seems to me like these pouches will be to small especially in width, am i correct in thinking so? thanks for any guidance/help on the pouch sizes

i was wondering about these other rs kit builds that some of you all started .. glad to see some progress! i have done the same reinforcement with abs disc on the last 2 kits i am building .. my first 2 kits i reinforced with apoxie sculpt which works good too but, i think i like the abs option much better. looking good and keep us posted!!

imperial surplus is the link chopper sent you .. i suggest, like chopper did, to read the first post and follow ALL the instructions kwdesigns requests/posted. i have ordered from him 2 different times and all has been good, shipping, communication in emails, tracking #'s ect. im not sure on the sc plastic thickness ... but, for my rs kits the plastic on the helmet is thick enough to allow a heat gun on high heat to heat up the helmet and make the adjustment there instead of on the visor side areas where the plastic is thinner... heres instructions and a pic of how i adjusted my rs kits.. again, this may not work for your sc plastic .. please use caution! ~ the blue area on the helmet is the point i use to tweak the sides of the helmet in, out, forward and back ~ only heating one half of the helmet at one time ... NOT both sides! ~ have a fan on high near by to start to cool the plastic when ready ~ repeat when plastic is cool as many times as needed as for the ears ... check these links for how a screen helmet looks http://forum.bikersc...llery&album=145 http://www.starwarsh...oper_helmet.htm ~ i draw a line from the outside ~ cut with razor knife (some people use a drill to make holes around the line for easier cutting) ~ sand to the drawn line ~ adjust with sandpaper hope that helps .. good luck! edit : i will add that i would test the tweak method i posted by pushing pulling on the point in blue to see if you can get movement and closer alignment before adding any heat. if you do use a heat gun .. PLEASE, go slow, very low heat and for very short periods of time ... depending on the plastic sc uses .. you can ruin the plastic pretty quick if your not careful! i have tweaked 2 don posts and 4 rs kits with my method ..

check this post here: http://forum.bikersc...ndpost&p=158637 good luck!

they look good! are the soles cut ? cant really tell...

check this post here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=17614&view=findpost&p=158637 good luck!

you know .. lining the visor up has been a problem with the handful of rs kits i have done too! seems the premade/premarked holes are fubar .. although the rs is abit different than the sc, i add pvc to the inside too, to adjust that visor and actually, it helps stiffen the area around the hole on the helmet. looks good man! maybe, look into getting the correct bolt keep us posted

i use a spray can -- dupli-color acrylic enamel -- from advance auto i find it does not have the problems that alot of spray cans have with the paint running/building up to quick and i dont see the gloss hazing over like i have seen with some other sprays which requires a gloss clear coat! it also is a nice spray paint as you have an hour to respray during coats ... this helps as you can lay on multiple very light coats and build up to a nice high gloss finish that does not require a clear coat and again does not have a haze over the finish and reduces the risk for runs. i have sprayed 4 helmets with this paint and i am very impressed with the way it lays down an shines. the only downside to using this type of paint is .... there is a 7 day wait to respray after the 1 hour mark, this is because the paint needs to degas itself .. do not attempt to respray after an hour or you will end up with a horrible orange peel effect show up almost instantaneously ... so, if your going to paint with it, get all your coats done within the hour or plan to wait the 7 days to add more coats. one other thing .. i would also use a grey primer base coat if you want the white to stay white ... i found that a white primer makes the paint look likes its yellowing. below is a reference of what im talking about with the primer base i saw on my helmets ... the left helmet has yellowed with white primer good luck!

looks good .. maybe, trim it a little bit more so the gap line is even all the way down when the visor is closed.

i cant recall how my sc ss helmet was. surprised someone here hasnt been along yet to lend some info since thats the faceplate i would think the visor should cover that gap .. maybe send sc an email, they reply pretty quick good luck!