762s

maybe, they represent the small keg, like whats around the st. bernards neck and, they are actually filled with blue milk instead of whiskey/brandy and we are all sadly mistaken that they are thermal detonators?

check my op here http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=18128&view=findpost&p=162943

well, reworked the cummerbund ... added more padding and re-quilted it, shortened cummerbund and adjusted pouches to align with the bottom of cummerbund. the cod piece is giving me major problems as the wrinkles are coming from the type of fabric that was used ... i can lay it flat with no stretch on the elastic and it has wrinkles. i have already added more padding to it too. i put and iron to it last night for long while and the wrinkles are not noticeable now ... i will test fit later on today to see if it keeps wrinkling when worn. adjusted the boots a little ... i found the velcro wasnt laying over itself fully. i may need to add some velcro to the loop side and pull them in abit more. and i may just make a new pouch, cummerbund and cod piece with a stiffer/more accurate fabric. plus, i see the inverted arc is way to high! its hard to stand like a dummy

alot of folks have had to do this. my cfo/strider armor required me to heat the belt up to make it round. i used a small heat iron, some use a hot bath and some use a heat gun.

thanks! and yes, i will do a very very light weathering. as you may be able to tell on the boots. the boots where so white the armor holster looked beige ... and i wanted it naturally weathered so, i roughed the vinyl up with some steel wool and a light sand paper and rubbed/grinded dirt into the material and washed the dirt of till it stained the boot just enough that it gave it enough weathering to hide the difference in the boots ultra bright white and holsters white color. thanks! and your right with the cod piece, i think i may have had the strap to far up the velcro patch on the back pulling it down and under creating the camel toe/bunching up. i had previously torn the cod piece apart and added more padding. its more a placement issue. and i will see what i can do to adjust the boot. thanks! ikr, finally! ... you cant see the big smile under mask but, its there! a long 7 month journey that im finally being able to see the better side of things ... i really cant complain about the wait, it has been really fun and a great learning experience! im so close to submitting this to my gml and i know i could get approved with what i have posted above ... but, i want it to be abit better so, when i do submit and get approved i can come directly here and go for that lancer approval i really love the overall look of it and i cant even tell you all how many times i looked at the pictures today thanks all!

and first test fit ... some problems with cummerbund ... will have to add velcro to flak vest to keep it from falling down

i tried the shoulder bridge zip tie method that strider mentioned in the lancer build thread ... broke a couple zip ties so, i decided to mount 2 zipties to the shoulder strap and i used a clear white zip tie like what we see in the screen used scout so, my zip tie method is like this... and i noticed my tank pulls away from the armor like in the screen used scout ... looks like this is due to back armor flexing/conforming to the body at the bottom edge, lifting the tank up and away from the back armor

heya, im not overseas but, i got some new information about them lenses ill send you a message and we can see how this new news works out before sharing

thanks and sure i will help where i can. pinstripping ... run(drive) over to an auto parts store and get yourself some 1/8" and 1/4" pin stripping .. black also, get some medium or thin ca glue from a hobby store (i use medium) piece of paper, pen or pencil, exacto knife, some painters tape with low adhesion(yellow frog tape) and some wax paper. follow my pic below for dimensions and make some small pencil marks on your tank to line up the stripping. the stripping wants to lay straight so, dont worry to much about it creating a wavy line. i use the ca glue to secure the ends of the pin stripping ... just drop a tiny bit on the end of the stripping and quickly rub it off. the tiny angel piece of 1/8" stripping on top of the main line in the center is 1 1/4" on the bottom and 1" on the top click picture for full size image RANK: tape a piece of paper to a work area that you can cut on and mark out the dimension of the rank bar your using .. see pics below on how to make your own rank decal mark the paper and make a template tape a piece of wax paper (shiny/slick side up) over your template and cut some strips of stripping and stick them onto the wax paper retrace the 1 1/4" width line and cut the template out remove the wax paper exposing the sticky side of the pin stripping place this newly created decal on the armor and rub the top corner of the stripping as you peel the tape off the decal at an angel as for the elbow greeblie .. remember the 2 dots are facing forward on our arm so, there is a left and right side. check out chef's build picture and thread --- refrence from chef's @ https://www.chefscre...r-scout-armour/ and well, as far as the elastic, i wanted to get the screen accurate look and i figure if it does end up failing over time, drilling a pop rivet out isnt hard do as im using aluminum rivets. and like chopper pointed with cheesewhoopy's pic there is a way to make it secure to the back armor. also check out pandatroopers method here ... http://forum.bikersc...indpost&p=81497 you can still add the elastic on the top and bottom to create the screen accurate look and secure the tank like many others have done.

your td pic looks close to the screen used td too ... and i was thinking about the pvc pipe too because, the hose method is hard to get a slight bend in it. i also found this .. not sure how the spine will bend over the inner pipe though if you look at striders lancer build the td he shows has a similar shape and it looks like there is rougher/cut edge in between the "wire" esp. near the rivet ... like they cut something off

the inner tube of the td is heavy in itself ... there has gotta be a better lighter method. plus, i think the screen used td is actually abit wider "wire" than what we are using. im gonna put some work in on this td research and see what i can come up with.

some progress ... and some questions. i changed the color of my helmets snout .. i found some dark grey testors paint ... i like it alot better than the primer grey but, i think it could stand to be darker still (compared to screen used) .. what do you all think? i went with the tank not secured to the armor too! alright, screen accurate scouts! can i use white/clear zipties? ... thats what the screen used scout looks like. why are you all using black? i have broke 2 zipties ... any suggestion on this? i was thinking using 2 zipties and keeping them straight so, that the ziptie is not bent around the base. and the td is fubar due to all the repaints and such, the lines are not uniform anymore ... and its heavy! i dont like it and im thinking how to rework it.

cutting them easy .. just get some sharp exacto blades and take your time. i backed the leather strap with a putty knife and then scored the leather strap a couple times till it cut free the zipper was easy too, it did create alot of fraying due to the nylong material used but, you just pull all that excess out. i used what bikerscout007 suggest and for dye .. fiebings suede dye ... 2 coats did the trick for me i will also suggest getting a suede brush to brush the suede before the dying and brush it in between coats ... keeps the suede from becoming stiff

no, they are not ... you should probably sell them!

i did prep/wipe down with acetone ... and i havent tried the krylon paint. i give it a shot. thanks for the info and quick response

well, i made my thermal detonator with electrical cord and drain tube as mentioned in striders lancer build. the problem im having is the paint remains sticky i have tried primer, testors and rustoleum(adheres to plastic) all 3 paints wont cure to the rubber coating on the electrical cord. so, what have others used to paint this electric cord?

wow! your moving along nice. cant wait for you to start on your bucket ... you wont be using any wrenches

im not working on a wtf's but, it should be very similar. the tank depth from back of armor to highest part is roughly 4" and the small humps on the side are roughly 2" from armor to top of them. you will need to cut you tank down. i propped mine in similar fashion to your pictures ... hope it gives you some idea of what you need to do. worse case send wtf a message on facebook and see what they say or if they have a template to use. good luck!

little bit of progress tonight... formed the belt had some issue with hair line cracks showing up so, i glued some abs scraps to each side of the center box and got it to bend properly. oddly enough the last 2 boxes didnt have an issue with cracks showing up, i think its due to them having a square flat area in between the boxes and not the added triangle area like the front has. back piece and tank trimmed up ... top of tank is thin but, it looks like the greeblie will stiffen it up some. might still need to add some abs scrap pieces or brace from back armor to top of tank like in pandatroopers post here... http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781&view=findpost&p=81497e well, i think tomorrow will be a sewing day ....

i think i would stick with a flat, matte and maybe a semigloss .. i wouldnt touch gloss looks like the orignals maybe where a semigloss ... have a look at these 2 threads and you decide http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=18225 http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=10612

first things first ... a big thanks to mark and constantin, you guys are top notch! well, i got into trimming, sanding and some glueing need some help with some of the trim lines, strider/cfo! the main thing i need help with is the drop boxes ... how do you determine the radius? i cut a slight radius but, it will need more, do i just fit this to my sides? then the holster ... how are you mounting the holsters front edge(smaller piece) to the holster plate, just glue it? i see some have riveted this section, and during cutting i left the excess and folded it back inside to glue and rivet for later. i still have to sand and round the edges on these parts. i tried to memic the pics in striders thread for the knees ... do mine look ok? i still have to sand the edges and round the inside corners. have a look ... if you all see anything i need to trim up some more .. please let me know anyways, on with the pic progress

thanks! and yeah the picture is bad. like you said, we have seen better photos...

looks good .. maybe, move the pouches out .. they should be 1" away from your last line on cummerbund something i just learned about and not sure how many people are aware of it. but, the elbow armor ... the square greeblie that has two dots on it .. those dots face forward ... so, there is a left and right elbow armor chef makes a top notch vest too!! good luck with approval!

i can say on some parts the trim lines are very obvious. on others not so much and on some areas there is a trim line and then there is nothing at all to go by. so, i guess i will cut 1/4" or so and test fit. and ill just use some abs scissors, razor knife and some sandpaper ... they have served me well with my helmet builds

update ... that white stuff came in its been a very long wait ... but, i am finally seeing the light at the end of this tunnel!