762s

first bondo coat and sanded

that is entirely up to you. i would adjust/cut the tank to get the tank flush to the back armor.

well, this is where i disagree with the specops crl and i have submitted a proposal for a change, and im getting interest from the command with it there are shadow scout references they are using but, there are differences in all of them the only all black biker scout we can see 100% is the 1 action figure from the general weir 2 pack comic book there is a refrence pic from the cover of darth vader #17 but, its not a full view and kinda blurred up all the reference pics dont add up to what the crl has for shadow scout darth vader #17 action figure --- all black biker scout these from the comic book are close too ... but not quite an all black biker scout (boots look off and theres a double thigh strap) from there the refrence pics become useless showing a black bicker scout as things like odd shoulder bells, lights on the belt, backpacks ect.ect. are showing. storm commandos between the 2 costumes ... the look of each of them is why i say they are different.

i know ... its just a funny argument to me but, with the references out there and even with the way specops detachment has the two separated and settup ... we are different. actually, there is no storm commando costume crl yet. we have references(pics/figures) but, i dont know why the costume crl hasnt been made storm commandos have a different helmet and some different armor than the shadow (black biker) scout so, technically the shadow scout is an all black biker scout ... i dont know why people say its not. when there is a clear difference between the storm commando and the shadow scout. and it has about the same amount of references(pics/figures) as the storm commando but, it costume crl was made .. idk

well, theres screen accurate size ... im not sure if know the exact cutout but, we can get close. there is a gallery posted here on bs.n with some measurements but, i cant really read the tape(blurry pic) heres the pic ... http://forum.bikersc...llery&image=754 the gallery ... http://forum.bikersc...llery&album=145 and then theres starwarshelmet you can look at for references http://www.starwarsh...oper_helmet.htm id say if you trust yourself with cutting, i would open your ears up a little there

use there indent and for the horizontal line go past the center bump onto the smaller bumps on either side about 1/2"

yes, and i use a 400 grit .. just something to get rid if the clean cut edge from the scissors and to round the squared cut edge abit ... just a couple swipes down the edge of the cut.

us shadow scouts are not storm commandos just for you i will have to add that into my proposal for crl change over there ~ADD to basic Black real suede riding patch on the inside of the thighs and over the seat of the suit. Real black suede square posterior patch attached to flight suit at the rear, under where cummerbund will sit, and resembles those seen on screen.

update ... i will be the poc for the group our current co has gave his blessing to revive the group and have fun scouting reached out to the recruits in the group and waiting on more replies .. will be reaching out to the tb's in the group next and then adding the shoretroopers in our garrison, they where never brought into the group we dont have any kashyyyk or rebels scouts but, will be on the look out for them to add them to the group. we need a current command staff from the detachment on our fb group too ... chex is a member there but, im not sure if that counts as a current bs.n command. we will also be looking to change the name .. as a couple of us dont really think shadow hunters fits to well. it sounds like we are hunting our own specops shadows question ... for level 2 biker scouts have lancer, shoretroopers have vanguard ... what are the level 2 names for kashyyyk and rebel biker scout?

that is for the SC kit, not sure if other kits do this ... i think it a way to help secure the tbit in some way. ill show you with my shadow scout ... as i didnt do this with my strider armor. its a black piece of wire between the 2 greeblies

no, just more detailed information than what the crl shows here is the detailed lancer crl http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=12081

i would back the area and the new cut out area with a scrap piece of plastic. fill the hole with abs paste, ca glue, bondo or a similar filler material. and then cut a new hole. an abs paste would be ideal because you should be able to buff it out to match the shine of the plastic. ca glue, bondo or other fillers would require you to paint those armor pieces. i havent messed with abs and buffing so, i would fill with other materials and paint. good luck!

heya, nice that you are back here and updating your thread i think i can help you with a couple of your questions. but, first, something about your older pic with the flightsuit ... ~ you will want to adjust your mudflap its abit to wide and to long that wont pass for lancer ~ you will probably need to taper your pant legs if they are to baggy then that wont pass for lancer either now on with your newer stuff and questions. ~ helmet your fine with the gap for basic ... as well, it is ok for lancer approval. its not required to fill the gap for lancer but, it is recommended ~ soft parts - swap the pouches around in your hands ... you holding them on the opposite sides - the pouches look pretty good, maybe the width is abit wide but, wont really be able to tell till you get the armor on - are the cummerbund and cod piece separate? again, not required for lancer but, recommended - not mentioned in the crl but, if your cummerbund is separate or you are going to get it separated then flip your cummerbund around so the velcro back closes on the right side - try to pull the cod piece up -- it lays flat in the front and it doesnt tuck into your crotch ... you may need to add some sort of padding to keep it from wrinkling up ... which is required for lancer ~ boots - this is something that is not mentioned in the crl and its more of a screen accuracy detail, the velcro is closing the wrong way on the back all in all i think you can make it happen with what you have. a coupe easy fixes are needed, mudflap, codpiece and pants! looking good ... get that armor on good luck!

well, i had a 1 1/4" tube (for my td) .. made center marks across the tube lined 2 marks up on the bottom and side of the bell traced around the tube with a pencil and cut lightly sanded the cut edge

the only weapon needed and looked at for lancer is the hold out blaster. you can get a dlt19x and troop with it if it meets the basic crl or if your gml allows you to troop with a gun that doesnt meet the crl or isnt in the crl for that costume, its all up to him so, contact your local gml. the only time i think this is really a concern is for lfl/disney sanctioned events, then you would need to meet the crl for that weapon and costume! i often see pics with troopers/scouts holding a gun we dont really see them holding on screen. as far as the extras you mentioned, they are: ~ ejection cover port added --- dsp has this covered/sealed ... its the square open areas on both left and right side where the belt would feed ammo through the gun. you can see through the real gun in this area. ~ small disk on left side --- dsp has this disk greeblie ... its on the top of the grip between the 2 screw heads, the larger circle greeblie. the gun is based on a real steel mg34 ... look up some pictures of it and then look at the dsp dlt19x pics, youll see what i mentioned above. from what i can see on dsp pics .. their dlt 19x meets the crl level 2 requirements glad you got your armor .. now the fun really begins

the other two troops above pretty much covered it. us shadow scouts get to carry differnt weapons too having both kits myself ... i think i love my biker scout more, and i think more people will recognize a biker scout over the shadow scout. also, the pathfinder biker scout section is way more active than the specops shadow scouts...its pretty dead over there maybe , that goes with what i was saying above...people recognize the biker more!?!?

ahhh.. i misread your post. it still pretty easy to change out just the shaft.. i had to do that with my shadow scout as they where to wide.

check out imgur .. works good for hosting! i dont think .. tiny holes being filled on the body are a requirement for lancer. Hold-out Blaster For 501st approval: Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster does not have any visible trigger. Blaster is lightly weathered. For level two certification (if applicable): The scope has lens discs cut into the scope for a more realistic appearance. No decals representing cross hairs or similar. No drilled barrels. The screen used ones did not have drilled barrels. nope its not ... you should be good to go. actually my dvh has some small holes .. and the lancer review team didnt say a single word about them.

nice, i like seeing how others do there builds. i tried the ziptie glued to the rear armor shoulder bridge ... i broke the zipties several times and i didnt like the shoulder bridge not having enough area to velcro too i tried them with a base glued to the same area ... still broke the zipties and not enough velcro room but, i didnt think to velcro the base like you did ... thats nice! so, i went a little different route using 2 clear/white zipties as we see on a screen scout and attached them through the shoulder bridge ... and well, my anchor is different than what you have ... i was able to use 2 seperate zipties through the 2 slots on my bridges i havent broke a ziptie yet

shoulder bells ... 1 1/4" diameter worked nice for my bells rounded edge i just used more batting (1/8" thick) for cummerbund ... there was 1 layer in there .. and i tore it apart and added 2 more layers if your boots are to tall .. its not a hard fix to adjust them, rip the seams out and fold over the top section and stitch them up again. the magnets attachment for blaster is for those blasters who have magnets. or those where magnets will be added/modded to them. you can choose that way but they may be another way to keep your blaster in the holster. for my shadow scout i used magnets but, not really a fan how the blaster would still wiggle around ... so, i added some scrap abs plastic on the inside of the holster to keep it secure --- its not coming out now all those are suggestions ... as you read, some things are not required for lancer. everyone has different ways of building and whats works for one person may not be suitable for another person build. as far as screen accurate ... we can see a white zip tie (2 lines) are on the scout on this image .. but, i think theres a black strap too behind the zipties .. you can see it in the pic too. i use a white zip tie like we see there in the pic ... most use a black ziptie ??? but, as the crl says you dont need to add this feature ... its up to you decided what route you are taking with your scout. some just go for basic, some go for level 2 (lancer), a few others go beyond lancer and try to look like the screen used scouts ... its all up to you look over more build wips and see other peoples ideas ... there is more than 1 way to build your scout. good luck ...

your getting there ... like you said smooth out the edges of the 8th vent some more. round them off to match the others and i think youll be good in that area!

top view of visor .. to allow it to open and stay locked. youll need to go past the RS lines they provided. even after cutting past the RS lines you dont want to open the visor to far, it will open further than the lock, just open it till it locks. you dont want to scratch/nick the paint. here is how i cut all my helmets here is how it looks on both sides with the visor opened and locked this is my first helmet ... i opened up to far(past the lock) and chipped the paint. helmet is opened and locked .. notice how far back can visor go to where the chip is?

return edges... once you have the faceplate and visor glued together without trimming the lower faceplate cheek section. you will want to place it on the helmet and make a new line that is parallel with the helmet angle. in the picture below the yellow line is a rough line of how far past the factory line you might go to get a nice clean angle profile. the red line will be what makes the return edge. thanks again stoutscout -- i used/edited your pics of our chats on your build questions what i do is take a thin straight edge and place it in the gap betweeen the helmet and visor and make a new line. the straight edge will sit on the lower cheeck section. from there i make the return edge and cut the tapered edge as seen in the pics in the previous post. i also, create the return edge before my new line and slowly trim reheat/recut/redo the return edge till i have a nice profile angle i am happy with. again, you may have to cut/heat/bend a few times to get a nice profile. the blue line in the pic below is the area your are trying to get straight. also, youll notice in the picture above the visor is not seated all the way down to the helmet. to adjust this i use a heat gun to tweak the helmet. ill post the picture of where i heat the helmet and where i push/pull from to get the helmet to tweak and allow the visor to close properly ... just go slow with this process and have a fan nearby to cool the helmet down quickly as your holding the helmet in position. be mindful of the ears, vents, return edges as you dont want to warp them with heat. this is also something i do more on the right side of the helmet. the left side doesnt need much tweaking to get the visor to close. also, when tweaking the helmet watch your return edges on the faceplate ... take a look at my pics in the previous post and youll see how small they are and that they are tapered. if your return edges are to big then when you close the helmet the return edges will be pushed out and give you a flair out on the cheeks (like efx helmets)

alright, np, ill post some more pics and info. NOTE .. with my 5 kit builds the left and right sides where not the same. the molds are not symmetrical or they are just bad pulls ?? so, you have the 2 visor halves and the faceplate. RS also sent you a faceplate spacer you need to cut out. below in the picture is the faceplate spacer -- marked in grey and i add a small piece of abs in the vertical return edge -- marked in red, this is to prevent cracking make sure the spacer is centered, if it isnt you will have a crooked visor and it wont line up properly in the front. so, this is where it gets tricky as i mentioned above the 2 side of the faceplate are not symmetrical. what i did is cut the tip of the faceplate off around the marked green(see pic below) area so it sits inside the back of the visor the blue marked area is a tapered return edge -- DONT cut or return this edge yet (marked in red) youll notice in my pics the left/right side is cut funky in the visor seat and filled in, this is due to the areas not being made proper, more than likely the right side will fit like a glove(3 of the kits ive built the right side was good) .. all 5 kits i had the same issue there, some more than others. i use CA glue with insta-set to fill the gap from the back side. i included a couple painted pics of the area too the bottom curve of the ear on the faceplate sits on the bottom of the return edge on the visor or close to it ill explain the return edge in the next post! thanks stoutscout -- i used/edited your pics of our chats on your build questions this is the bonded area from the inside .. left and right sides -- multiple angles notice the return edges, these are done after you have the visor faceplate put together and have the helmet built. the bottom edge of the faceplate (ears) is what seats to the bottom edge of the visors return edge and it sits to the back corner of the visor. youll notice in the first pic there, the notch on the faceplate sides are abit big (this was my 1st helmet build) and i was able to fix/fill this with CA glue and insta set .. pics 4 and 5 above

congrats! your looking really sharp! put that app in for lancer and see what they say good luck!