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good start... the cummerbund has to many stitched lines creating to many raised ribs as well it shouldnt be tucked into the belt, it sits just on top of the belt check the crl for basic approval .. http://databank.501s...B_Scout_trooper

true pictures can give distortion ... but, even the packaging pamphlet shows the same flair on the jaws and very noticeable on the right jaw

no thanks! ....think i will stick with my rs kits! i have 2 efx helmets(not biker scouts) and for what they claim with being screen accurate ... i see inconsistencies in those helmets too and this one is not much better. whats with this helmet? front view looks like it was put in a vise and squeezed at the jaw/lower visor area ... the flair on the jaw on the faceplate looks odd! and the angle views of the front shows more of the flair. front view not showing ears ... snout greeblie doesnt look that much better than a don post/rubies. what with this all the black padding .. is it made for cold weather? would love to see a closed side view besides the ones that efx is showing ... they seem to be no better than what rs can produce ...

hello ... looking good trooper! i will point a few things out for you and im sure the others around here will chime in too. your pouches on the cummerbund look to big pouch should be in the ballpark of 6"tall x 5"wide x 2"thick cummerbund look to tall cummerbund sits just on top of the belt ... not tucked into it cummerbund stitched vertical lines should be 1" apart ... yours look to wide/to far apart the pouches on the cummerbund are to far to the side they should be roughly 1" away from the stitched lines on the cummerbund good luck!

your getting closer to the end and its looking really nice! you mentioned the light grey for the snout ... ive looked at several pictures of the snout too ... and im not sure its just lighting that makes some look darker than others. i tend to believe different shades of gray where used. and as far as the divets.bumps/nicks/scratches/pinholes ect. ... look for a high build primer in gray at an auto parts store, itll fill in all those imperfections. the seam is ok, my cracked seam has grown on me ... like you said, screen accurate but, i see your frown so, maybe try the high build primer

i did my biker scout like this.. and my shadow scout (and sc armor) was done like this...

looking good ... your doing fine

congrats on making it this far and sticking with it through the long haul! your almost there and i know youll be very happy when you get that approval from your gml. as far as research... start reading all the wip threads here and using all this info to make the best of your build. there is alot here and many different ways to build the costume to have the same look. start yourself a build wip thread with pictures and ask questions in it or make new question threads... all of us here are more than happy to help you through it! good luck and look forward to seeing your wip

looking good ... a little bit of fine tuning on the left ear and in the lens with some sand paper is all i can see/suggest are you going to fix the factory return edge on the bottom of the faceplate?

heya, i used this info(link below) for placement of my decals on my don posts and my rs prop masters kits and they seem to work good and look pretty good in place even though the helmets are of different porportions. see part 8 ... http://website.lineo...B-RubiesMod.pdf on my shadow scout the 3m bolts i use twist off with raising the visor too ... i think a dab of e6000 on one side of the threads might do the trick to keep them secure. good luck!

what? storage bins? i still have my armor and soft parts in the bbb's they came in

thanks strider! i overlooked the info for these details and id like to add a couple pics for the boots

elbow armor greeblies elbow armor strap shoulder armor with zip tie and shoulder bridge shoulder armor strap forearm armor strap knee armor lower strap knee armor upper strap rear of belt dropbox strap

well, figure i would go ahead and get this process started. Helmet: RS Prop Masters Kit Armor: CFO/Strider Flight Suit: Chef Flak Vest: Chef Cummerbund, Pouches, Cod Piece, ​Boots: Chrisx909x -- all modified by me Gloves: Espirits Blaster: DVH I noticed the tank was crooked ... heres another pic

good start! if you trim the ridge on the front visor where you have the tape the front gap wont be so wide and if you trim the back .. at the top of the crown above the tape and the area between the 2 vents you can get the back gap to close up you only want to cut the areas that are touching now, dont cut where the gap are at! just cut a little bit at a time. and if the strips do not cover your gap, you have a whole sheet to make new wider strips keep us posted

looking good. as for the 8th vent hole ... i filled all of mine with apoxie sculpt, 2 part clay compound, works really well as it doesnt harden to fast and you can use water to work the clay to get the indent right. good luck, keep us posted

congrats! looks good and looks like you found a nice dark gray color for the snout

no cutting needed. its one continuous piece.

i found a darker grey from testors that i have redone my snout with. try a dark grey primer for the snout and a light grey primer for the bolts. or since you have paints ... why not mix a bit of black to your current grays to get a closer match? and then whiten that grey up for the bolts!

awesome!!! i love seeing rs helmets being built makes me want to order another one its look pretty good from what i can see in the pics, you have a nice line with the two halves of the helmet too ... i hope you didnt go to far past the trim lines rs provided, this will shrink the helmets width and you will have to carry that width over to the visor and it will make it tough to get the face plate to sit correctly. anyways, to answer your question ... i would leave it as you have it and start adding the support strips to the inside. you have a nice small gap that will be easy to fill. and honestly, i would rather want to have a gap here and there to give the putty/bondo something more to adhere to than just a smooth shell. you may want to test the polyester putty on 2 pieces of scrap plastic before you fill the helmet. as well, wash/degrease the plastic just in case any contaminants are on the plastic that the polyester putty wont adhere too. the reason i suggest testing that putty is because there is a slight pull to open the helmet up when you put it on and off. i have one helmet that i used a softer putty on and it has started to crack on the seam, do to the slight pulling that is needed to get the helmet on and off, i like it though as its screen accurate ... and the other helmet i have i used straight bondo and it has yet to crack on the seam ... i have a 7 1/4" hat size head. dont use the hole/indent they provided for bolt holes, they are not right! make your own center mark and adjust the visor to sit correctly on the helmet if you need any help with the build post back here, check my rs build thread(click the link in my signature) or feel free to send me a message. i have helped a few through the process and i dont mind sharing what i have learned with my rs builds. look forward to seeing your progress, have fun with it and good luck!

reworked the cod piece ... i think it looks better and closer to screen used scout i adjusted the vest/shoulder bell placement and there is still a slight flair when arms are down. but, even when looking through the armor comparison thread the vests are not showing below the shoulder bell, are way to long, or they flair like what i have ... even striders vest is flaring very similar to what i have now so, on with the adjusted cod piece pic ... im very happy at this stage of my build and im waiting on my gml's approval ... then we can get that lancer application going

thanks for the info! i think the flaring of the vest is a dressing issue and the vest arms are pulled to far down. i believe if i get the vests arm to go past the shoulder bell by 1" then the flare wont be so noticeable and possibly non existant. and the cod piece i was thinking i might be able to rework it entirely and try to get it to match more like the mannequin. i have enough fabric there to cut it up, cut off the narrow lower part under the arch and resew it .. if i can do that then i think the cod piece will diffently look more like the mannequin. if i remake the codpiece then i would need to remake the cummerbund and pouches to match. so, im going to try to avoid that.