762s

yeah, i was having issue bending the decal to fit the contour .. i did/have been looking at pics but, its hard to really tell due to the angles .. i finally to the risk and attached it .. see my build wip i took the pics from the link chopper posted .. threw them in photoshop and blacked out the edges and got a bit better view of the decal location ... i dont think its like the vents where they follow the same contour all the around ..

thanks all! alright ... well, first i found this little iron at a fabric shop .. cost was $13 .. since i couldnt find the $40 version i see alot people use i figured i would give this a try .. worse wouldve been to return it .. it heats up to 375 degree at 5 minutes and seems to be ok .. esp. for the first time working with bending abs .. might spring for the more expensive with a bit higher heat rating now i know what to expect and how to work the plastic. so, if you see the 1st video strider posted here http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=18319 you will see he mentions how the profile does not line up on the sides and has a gap ... i guess, this will be the case with these kits helmets too .. at least my kit was like he showed. i took and mounted the visor to the helmet .. pushed it down so, the top visor sat correct ... ran a straight edge down the side of visor/faceplate to get a reference mark on the faceplate to where i needed to bend to. i heated/bent the faceplate edge to the reference line. slowly worked the edge to give it an angle, its not a 90 its more like a 20 degree angle. after i got the angle and the bend i liked i cut the excess off the back edge the left and right "ear" on the faceplate where not the same (you can see it in the pics, post #5 of the visor and mask inside).. so, i did have to fill a bit here and there .. as well, the precuts on one of the faceplates sides didnt leave me enough material but, with the faceplate angle being off i was still able to work with it. and after looking at many different helmets .. each have their own personalty so to say .. on some helmets the visors dont sit right where as on others the visors are tight .. some have glue showing on inside faceplate/visor(like mine) .. some dont .. i seen the pics you posted about the return edge .. but if you look at another screen used helmet(star wars helmets) the return edge is tappered on the faceplate where it hits the helmet. i think all those subtle differences are neat really .. each has been worked slightly different and no 2 helmets are the same. its ok to take your time .. measure fit as much as possible and cut once. i think i cut my top visor something like 5 times before i got it to where i was happy with it. hope the info above helps and good luck!

heres a few more pics .. 99.9% done .. only thing left is to find out about the headstrap or foam .. and the gaffers tape(or other) in the ears been a pretty fun build!

heya thanks for the offer! ive been trying to get a good reference picture ... it would be alot easier if i had a reference helmet in hand will see what i can do with this decal tonight.

this is what i have been told just recently from a new member here too .. he did get his items(bolts) from kwdesigns guess it would help to be active in a thread when your selling .. huh? ill go and adjust my post in that thread

looks very good man .. awesome patiently waiting on the word from strider myself to have that the same settup

so, im trying to get some decals done but, this one barcode decal is odd im aware it lines up with the trapezoid and the bottom of the vents the problem im seeing is the barcode is a square decal and wont conform to the rounded concave edge i only got 1 of these decals from rs .. so, i dont want to apply it in the wrong position does the left side of the barcode raise up slightly ? is the alignment only on the right side of the barcode? it doesnt follow the contour of the helmet like the vents do .. correct? the vents keep the same distance around the helmet here is a couple reference pics of where i think it should be placed ... and if you see the left side it is raised up and not in the same position as the right side or the vents

glad they did change it .. looks 100% better the way we know it now. btw .. any possible way to get a close up of the inside of the built rs helmet and how the headband is secured ? ... im not sure if this is where the 2nd piece of thin abs strapping comes into play or what .. atm, the headbands hinges/bolts hit the inside of the helmet and warp the headband out of shape .. and with the hinges/bolts removed to try and line it up with the helmets bolts .. this bends the top of the headband too ...

hey thanks. i will take your advice on the wrap .. the cord wants to roll around and create a pyramid effect .. like in pic1 -- pic2 didnt have many issus with that side ..this will still need some adjusting to get the cord to lay right. agree, the dvh is a good looking piece .. to me, its the most accurate of the blasters i researched.

problem i see with these boots .. several issues come mind ~ the toe is built up with that rubber reinforcement quite a bit ~ the rubber on the top of the sole wrapping around the boot might be an issue ~ the sole doesnt seem tall enough to get the cuts into it that are needed good luck

went ahead and reworked the return edge on the face plate .. i like it abit more put the first coat of fillable primer on the kit had to rework a few spots the primer showed .. 1 spot on the visor and there was an uneven section on the back seam got a few little things to work on ... then its getting painted

okay nvm, finally found it .. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=16728&view=findpost&p=150678 as darth voorhees suggest "DONT go gloss, use matt or satin ..." and others said "primer grey" *admin feel free to delete this thread*

hey .. good start so far. i cant wait to start the armor process build myself from what i can see .. ~ the chest armor needs to come down in the front to the top of the pouches -- i see you dont have the chest/back armor built yet so, this might be the issue ~ the cummerbund and pouches look long ~ the rear of the cummerbund looks to long on the back ~ cod piece needs some work .. it looks to wide and i dont see a visible arch in it ~ shoulder armor needs to be raised up .. again this should fixed when you get your chest/back armor built ~ the side pouches look like the could be raised up im sure others will be around to help and give suggestions good luck ..

in the 2nd video i noticed ~ the snout is all wrong .. wth is that? ~ the lens is falling off too

still getting parts together an practicing wrapping the td

heya.. im trying to find some info this grey color ... i see the lancer tutorial says velejo light grey alot of pics are fubar from pb bomb and its hard to tell in a pic what sheen it is so, is this a gloss, satin or flat grey? looks like the 3m bolts are a flat grey cast and not painted .. correct? and well, is the same light grey used for a the grey parts? td, snout and bolts is there any other light grey thats acceptable .. ie just regular light grey? tia

thanks all .. update for the wip BE CAREFUL with the ear cutouts!! its VERY brittle in this section!! i had a small crack happen when trimming the ears .. some ca glue w/instant set and sanding fixed it though. ~ sanded the helmet ~ cut out eyes, ears ~ worked on and found the detail on the face plate return edge/tapered edge heres that small crack from cutting the ear section out

thanks for that 2nd video .. i had seen it long time ago and was actually looking for some details .. slow motion really helped too it helped my build today with the return edge // tappered return edge on the bottom of the face plate

you cant unsee what you have seen! i can tell there is a difference ..not the color you mentioned but, the armor looks darker white than the helmet i think your right as far as painting them all at the same time ... at least you would have the same color white over all your pieces. i dont know if abs will change paint color over time .. but, maybe a stain blocking primer wouldnt be a bad idea for a base coat if you decide to respray all them good luck!

wasnt expecting to get into building this helmet but, i got bored and decide to give it a try. had several small issues: ~ the visor blinder cut lines goes from 1/2" to 1/4" .. i dont like that .. its suppoed to be even all the way down not tapper to the bottom ~ not sure how to work this edge under the face mask -- its warped and all out of sorts ~ the right ear section was warped on the bottom and didnt sit right -- the left ear was an easy match ~ the bucket had a warp in it .. the 2 halves kept popping the glue ~ the cut lines on the upper visor where off .. i had to go further in past there cut line .. but, i like it and not really seeing a need to keep the visor locked up .. so, im not using there cut out method and will still need to even it out those small issues where not that bad though i added/still in the process of adding the 8th vent i laid some epoxy across the seams and waiting for it to cure been a fun first helmet build .. it went pretty quick too .... well, this part did. still have to get to some trimming here and there cutting out the eyes/ears sand the seams ect.ect. still abit of work left but, heres where am at with it

care to give a step by step or even post a video of the build process?

if i may add a suggestion to the visor .. as i noticed rs penciled a line for the cutout and strider mentioned/shows this at about the 7 minute mark. the penciled line rs gives us .. should not need to be cut out in the form they show to allow the visor to sit up .. the dark line is their cutline .. the lighter line is my penciled in rough line and i also show the donp version wich doesnt have the extra cut out there is a small visor lock on the helmet .. and on my donp it works just fine and the visor sits up and locked in place *dont mind the apoxie sculpt .. its a wip i would suggest not cutting the rs line .. build and test fit and see how it works the visor lock works well on the donp .. and by the looks of the rs, it should be just fine without the extra cutout maybe, even add a bit of apoxie sculpt, fiberglass or similar material to the inside of the visor end to stiffen it up abit .. you could even carry it up the return edge

the dimples are from the vacuum form .. they are needed in the mold to get the plastic to form, look carefully around all your parts you will see more of them .. i have the same dimples you show in your pics. those dimples can be fixed with high build primer or even fill it with bondo or similar skim coat material

i can speak on the sc helmet .. my experience i got a ready made black biker scout helmet from sc ~ nice price ~ lightweight ~ very nice padding and very comfortable ~ plastic seemed to thin for my liking ~ the visor/face plate was warped ~ the 2 piece helmet had a visible open seam ~ rear vents where not defined sold the helmet as the warp and the open seam on the helmet was not to my liking. some people may be okay with the cons i listed though. and sure, some modifications on a few of the cons i listed could be fixed .. for me though, i spend good money on a ready made helmet .. i shouldnt have to go in and rebuild it!

heres my donp rework method after filling in the original holes (they where off center) ~ i found center and marked out a 3/8" square on the visor section .. cut out the square leaving the line and fit the 3m bolt and trimmed as necessary till i got a tight fit ~ then i found center on the helmets raised area and drilled a hole on the helmet section .. slightly smaller than the 3m bolt as to make a tight fit ~ used only the bolt and nut *yes, the 3m bolt i used/recieved is not the correct grey concaved 3m bolt(false advertising is all i can say) -- when i get the correct 3m bolt though it will pop right into place