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so, im thinking on trying to create a screen accurate lens. grey colored lens ordered a grinding/welding face shield ... curved and clear i should be able to get 2 lenses for about $15 and diffently should be able to keep it under $20 for the pair. i have 2 thoughts ~ i will take the shield(once cut) to a local vehicle window tint shop and have them tint the lens ~ i will buy some tint and tint the lens myself reason behind this is im having trouble finding a good grey colored lens ... pictures dont show size and im not wanting to purchase lenses that wont fit..ie i have a ess google spare lenses but, they are slightly to small on the bottom edge. i look for motocross lens they have a post coming out them. i look at snowboard lens no size or they are mirrored. so, has anyone tried this method before? thoughts?

looking good! keep us posted on the progress

looking good! a few things before you paint it you might think about ~ you may want to consider removing more from the visor where it meets the helmet. you have it pretty tight there. any lifting of the visor will scratch the helmet. -- heres a couple nice pics of an original helmet visor/helmet gap -- i reworked mine to this too 1. http://forum.bikersc...llery&image=741 2. http://forum.bikersc...llery&image=742 ~ take a little more time on the eye cutouts .. look on the inside of the faceplate and you should see a line to work to .. pencil that line and use a sharp razor and rough sand paper to cut away to that line. ~ take some rough sandpaper to the "U" of the visor to get rid of that rolled vacuumed formed edge ~ and lastly get some high build primer .. spray the seams/bondo work .. this will help hide the the seams and edges of the bondo work .. you can lay it on heavy and even let it fill in small areas then sand it off pretty easy as for the visor lens .. i used a 1 minute epoxy (home depot) with premix nozzles(2) .. i also, did NOT use the rs visor, i went with the dark green welding shield type lens(trooper bay) .. it is abit stiffer than the rs lens but, it is easier to see through. cut it to shape .. placed it in the helmet and dropped a few drops on the edges of the lens keeping pressure on the center of the visor with a finger for a couple minutes till the epoxy hardened .. once the epoxy hardened i changed nozzles and then epoxied the entire edge of the lens. https://i.imgur.com/KWZqbmx.jpg interested to see how the saw gerrera partisan character will be. good luck man .. keep us updated!!

i would like to add this bit of information ... the maker of the items listed above is a top notch vendor and i will not need any help from the 501st admins i was more concerned with the vest and he offered to refund a portion of the boots cost as well. and he was willing to work on another vest that was a size larger. i asked for a refund/return only on the vest as i feel it will need more tailoring than his pattern allows. he was okay with my request and will be sending a refund on the vest. it is nice to have someone(a vendor) out here with respect for their buyers. honestly, being my second issue with a vendor(first was max's) i wasnt to sure how this was going to play out and wasnt to keen on messaging the maker about the issue but, fixing the issue with him ended up being easy and without a doubt very pleasant to deal with. as i said above " the maker of these 2 items has been responsive, polite, reasonable and very fair priced and pretty spot on with his timeframe/schedule." and now i see the way he handled this vest issue ... well, that speaks volumes to me. 501st should not have any issue keeping him or others like him on their list! @ the maker -- THANK YOU! and to the rest who chimed in above, thanks for the info/suggestions

tried that .. no luck it seems to be stained in the vinyl for good.

i went with a size larger as everyone suggested in other threads .. the fit is good. like mr.mike said "its ever so slightly snug"

well, so far no luck with removing the stains. and i think more like chopper said this is sharpie bleed through .. maybe, from a pattern or something else the maker had lying around or using .. a ruler with sharpie/pen marks on it? the top boot in the box cleaned up from the box print .. but, you can clearly see the purple line on the toe of the boot there in the pic. the other boot was more protected from the box print by the bund, vest and pouches that where on the bottom. but, they have more purple lines than the boot that was touching the box. i might try some white kiwi wax shoe polish and see how that looks and if the stains will bleed through the wax shoe polish.

@ chef -- thanks...yes, i have been using a white cloth and water. ill try to find some other products. @ retrofire -- thanks for the tip using magic eraser. i will give it a try too @ chopper -- yes, they are purple now and i thought the same about it being sharpie bleed through. looked inside of boot and theres no marks there..so, maybe ink transfer from a pattern or even the ink from the inside of the box. will try the suggestions above tonight and report back ..

alright well, i tried cleaning the boots and it seems the ink from the box stained the vinyl .. leaving a purple hue line here and there anyone have ideas to get this out? white shoe polish on vinyl ? i dont want to ruin the vinyl with chemicals .. never worked with this material before .. so, any info would be helpful. i am trying to come as a clean white troop and let it weather naturally .. if i cant get rid of the purple lines i might just leave it and move on or i might do a light weather. and you know .. once you see it you cant unsee it heres a few pics .. 1st boot pic has several areas on the side/rear i cant capture all them in the pic i tried to keep the purple hue lines to center of pic and it might be hard to tell in the pics but, its easier to see in person

@ chef -- thanks for the reply your work and seeing the issues out there and trying make 501st a better/safer place for all to make purchases and sales. @ bikerscout007 -- yeah, funny! to bad i wasnt trying to weather. and this maker did ask for a s-m-l-xl size as well as other measurements ... so, im not sure what went wrong with the vest. ~~~~~~~~~~~ dont get me wrong either .. the maker of these 2 items has been responsive, polite, reasonable and very fair priced and pretty spot on with his timeframe/schedule. with all that, i feel like the maker will be willing to work with me on this. i guess its the terminology/wording that gets me, what i consider "good" will not be what you consider "good" .. right? ~ like the boots .. a few of you dont see and issue with them where as the flap/stitching to me are off and not what i was expecting after my reasearch -- and thats where i feel i lost money because, i have to rework them, purchase materials ect. to get them to what i expected them to be. and well, for future reference i will ask more questions .. reference pics/tuts to the maker and do what is needed to make sure the maker and myself are on the same page of what i will be receiving and what the items will look like.

if you dont mind to share .. why do you preffer the lw?

thanks for the info all. and i have reached out the maker/makers...no replies as of yet and also i dont take to much in any forum post as a personal attack .. i got tough skin;) as far as the boots ..granted the smudges should come off but, the care and handling is not what i would have expected. the issue i guess i have with the term "lancer spec" is seeing the screen pics and the tuts and expecting that. when i see the flap hanging over and the stitches not proper... well, its wrong to me and not really to "spec". as i said i can and will fix the flap(already in the process). i take pride in my work and expect the same when i pay for goods! the vest ... you all say the white material is okay ... well, again it looks unfinished and more than likely should not have any white showing to get that "lancer spec" .. unless thats okay for lancer .. i dont see how it could be if your flight suit pockets on redkap suit have to be closed up to not show white liner inside .. this is very similar situation here . beyond that .. the vest is just way to small ... and to put it over a suit would be worse. i will wait for the maker to reply on these 2 items(mainly the vest) and go from there before contacting staff. thanks for listening... explaing and the replies!!

not really sure where to go from here. commissioned people mentioned or listed in the forums kinda feel like im out some $ -- well, yeah, i am out some money thats for sure! box of goods comes in and well, im not to impressed ~ boots are wrong - i should be able to rework them -- okay ~ vest is wrong - sell it back to the maker? ~ gave up on the bund/pouches/cod piece -- they are not correct either and now with a suit sent off to another, who seems to be shut down now .. im thinking how many people get taken of advantage of as a buyer in this costume world. so, onto the problems see for yourself -- couple things wrong with the boots besides looking preowned -- "lancer approved" huh? and the vest -- i cant even move my arms up or place a hand on the opposite shoulder, not to mention ..... this what? is it unfinished? white showing in the sleeves? -- "lancer approved" huh? im not to sure what to think .. i really dont want to send the items back and take the risk of never seeing them again. well, one lesson i learned with paypal and commissioning people is to get a invoice and not pay through friend and family even if asked ... that wont happen again! i dont know .. i think on how 501st could make their own items/basic and lancer items (or whatever for other detachments).. sell the goods .. and not have use new comers be taken by others who claim they can make something to "spec" ... when the item gets into the buyers hands its not to spec i have seen couple of boots posted not to lancer spec and where bought from members on the forums .. this shouldnt happen!

i like the housing idea there with the magnets .. looks very clean too!! good job!

it's unique...different from the other helmets is all. the eye areas is where i can tell the biggest difference.... like i said i havent seen a lw and now that i have ill be able to tell it apart from the others.

hey dan, im glad this info has helped! and to answer some of your questions--- the bolt head will be flush with the visor on the outside if you cut the square hole in the visor. the square part of the bolt will be flush with the indside of the visor as well. this locks the bolt in place. the actual visor lock im talking about above is on the helmet side. and you can see more about that in striders .. "rant about the rs helmet" post ... rs made a funky cut with the top of the visor wich strider points out and shows inthe video ... i also replied in his post with the actually lock mechanism and how rs shouldnt have made that cut and refrence line. the filling i did to the bolt hole(last set of pics) was a reinforcement of the helmet side .. as i was opening and closing the visor many many times i noticed those holes where geting wider there. and yes... the headband doesnt fit in the helmet correctly... i have tried many different ways and it just doesnt seem right in any position...thats where the pop rivets come into play, looks like rs wants us to secure the headband with pop rivets behind the visor area around the bolt section.. .. wich i am not going to do. i will more than likely order a correct headband or go with a foam insert. ill add some helpful links below: striders rant review thread http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=18319 correct bolt instructions/build http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=18306&hl=&fromsearch=1

hey, thanks! its fun to build/teardown things to see how they function/suppose to function. and, are you saying that on the helmet side there is a square cut out too? the square bolt coming through the visor is flush with the inside of the visor.

been messing with the helmet abit ..since, it was my first helmet build decided to be rough with it abit. besides, i have another kit to build and would like to work out the kinks with this one before building my 2nd. so, opening the lid and trying to figure out why rs put the extra cuts in it .. seemed like something was off with the visor and the lid but, when i found these pics .... http://forum.bikersc...llery&image=742 .. it looks like there a pretty wide gap between the two. well, upon working this visor and lifting and trimming to get it to lock .. i know i didnt want to. but, i couldnt leave it be .. haha so, a crack appeared on the visor in the seam .. but, only on the helmet side of the visor // not forward of the facemask i worked the visor till it would open and lock .. and yeah, theres a gap .. but, not a funky line like rs marked out, its more like the screen used. also, i started noticing a loud pop when closing the lid .. found a couple things that needed changing. the cut on the visor side edge was to wide(see pics below) and the helmet bolt holes where becoming bigger little by little. so, on with the updated pics and additions **in order with pics** ~ reinforced the inside seam on the visor with small abs pieces ~ widened gap on visor to helmet to get it to lock and not scrape the helmet(looks more like screen used) -- its not symetrical yet, dont mind that .. it will be when im done ~ added apoxie sculpt to visor bolt holes on helmet side (pics 3 & 4) - to stop the popping and widening of holes ~ trimmed back edge of the visor where lockin area is -- this edge is now roughly 1/4" wide - to stop the popping hope this extra info helps those who are into their build with the rs kit

neat .. looks good! havent seen a lw .. its definitely a different questions for you .. ~ did you use the abs scraps and acetone to fill? if so .. ~ how is the process for that application? time in solvent .. is it puddy .. how long to work with it .. cure time

and more goods ... reworking the boot flap and the stitching on the flap

i got my balaclava off ebay in a few days .. no need to not trust them as they have buyer protection i got the under armor heatgear, which helps in keeping your head cool during the hot months they make an under armor coldgear too, to keep your head warm for those colder months can be worn as a full face mask, chin dropped or even as a neck gaiter

congrats on the approval! might wanna change to a different image host your pics dont show up due to the photobucket bomb

size would be helpful .. also, t track is actually "C" shaped look for t strip or t molding ~ weather stripping ~ rubber molding ~ aluminum (like mentioned above) check at home depot/lowes look at flooring thresholds(aluminum) alot of garage doors weather stripping has a "t" to the rubber that tucks into the door .. it could be used(might be expensive route to go) and there are plenty of stores on google that have different sizes/types when you search just t strip good luck!

thanks for this .. and yes, the barcode rs supplies a decal not water transfer that is why i was having issues bending the paper/tape to match the contour. what you said is what i ended up doing .. marked off some reference points on the right and left sides .. started on the right and laid the decal, pulling the tape off slowly letting the bars fall freely on the top and bottom and lay where they wanted i had 1 bar near the end that the bottom buckled when it was falling to the helmet but, i was able to lift the bottom part up and off the helmet and let it fall back into place by itself with no issues. i like the way it turned out!

i used a medium ca glue with insta-set(hobby town) to join the halves together -- works very well with plastics before gluing the halves a light sanding in the areas your joining together is good practice once the halves where together, i used apoxie sculpt (grey material seen in pics) again sanding where the apoxie sculpt is being laid ... and alot of water to soften the clay and work it out flat takes about 3 hours for it to harden and you can shape/lightly sand at that point .. its pretty easy stuff to work with if you keep it wet and easy to sand too after the apoxie sculpt hardened for a day(full cure) i sanded a wider area and laid some bondo on top of that i have seen others use the abs plastic pieces and acetone mix since, i have never messed with that combination of materials .. i used what i have worked with before