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Chopper

Command Staff
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Everything posted by Chopper

  1. Hi Jeremy, you seem to have a handle on the items to focus on. I think you could apply for basic clearance now and would be good to go, but if you want to talk Level 2 refinements, we can go for it. I did some markup on your back side photo to try and give you an approximate idea on the riding patches and butt flap. Those aren't exact markings, they're just to give you a sense of about where they should be. The hashes below the belt are just to note that there shouldn't be a gap there. Also, just a dressing pointer, but check your flak vest sleeves to make sure that they aren't caught under the shoulder bell. You're doing a great job, Jeremy. Keep it up and let us know if you have any other questions.
  2. Hi Dyan, did WTF not send any greeblies with their scout kit? There aren't a ton of WTF scout builds that also include a lot of photos, but Jason Lawless (RIP) had a thread from when he did his build, here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19025-wtf-armor-build/&tab=comments#comment-171672 The vendor list looks to be current, though keep in mind that COVID might have affected production times and capacity. Good luck, and let us know if you have any questions.
  3. Hi Keith, great job assembling and finishing your 3D printed helmet! Getting everything finished like you did really pays off. That particular 3D helmet helmet design has been floating around for a while. The key point to consider in the CRL is the line where it says, "Helmet is true to the shape of original screen used helmet". I should say that this model is not the *most* accurate design out there, due to squared visor, the thinned top portion of the visor, and the squared off edges on the ear holes. As you mentioned, the Jesus Salomon design is the better 3D scout helmet model. That said, for Level 1, it's likely OK, though the ultimate decision there will come down to your GML. If you were looking at Level 2, then I'd say that no, it likely wouldn't make the cut, due to the shape issues I mentioned. However, the final decision there is one that'd need to be made in consensus with the rest of the Level 2 Review team.
  4. If you get can a 1/8" cobalt drill bit from the hardware store and you used aluminum rivets, then you should be able to drill out the holster without issue. If you used steel rivets...well, that's not impossible, but it's a little more difficult to drill them out.
  5. I wouldn't stress about the corners too much -- just try to get close. Here's a photo to work from.
  6. Hey Jeremy, your holster and visor cuts look good. Great work there. Don't forget also to round the corners on the holster after you cut it as well. One note on your lens -- is that a green lens or a black lens? I know that SC still sends a green lens with the kit, but even Level 1 of the CRL states "Lens is black in color". Onto your undersuit -- please keep in mind that my comments about your suit are from a Level 2 perspective, since you had expressed interest in doing a Lancer-level build. Your butt flap does look wide to me, but exactly how wide and how much you should trim would be easier to judge with your belt on. You don't need a full suit up, but looking at your back with the belt on correctly would help us make a judgement there. For your riding patches, it looks like there's a lot of material showing from the back. Are they twisted a bit? If you look at the CRL photos, *most* of the riding patch material shows from the front, with somewhat less showing from the back. That said, it would help to see a front side photo before you start adjusting anything?
  7. Hello! The Level 2 Review Team has reviewed your corrections and we're happy to announce that you have earned the title of Lancer! Congratulations! Just as a heads up for your benefit, we did have two dressing items to take note of, for when you suit up again -- The front of your belt looks like it's drooping a bit, likely due to the bund pushing it down. You might want to put some velcro on your flak vest and the top of your bund to help hold it up. The second item is to move your forearms down a bit, so their sitting further over the tops of the gloves. Overall, great work and congratulations!!!
  8. @TaterNanners try @Chrisx909x here or KriptonTop on Etsy for some additional scout coverall options.
  9. Thank you for that @woobiee, we haven't had much of a chance to evaluate the suit, since they first posted it for opinions a while back.
  10. At your height compared to the sizing of the IB coveralls, both the suit and the riding patches will very likely be too long for you without additional tailoring. There are other issues with the suits we've seen, specifically that the riding patch is only on the front portion of the legs, with nothing on the back. This is not a big deal for basic clearance, but can be an issue for Lancer/Level 2. At your size, you may want to consider looking at different vendors for the scout coveralls.
  11. I haven't gotten the scout coveralls from IB, but I have picked up some other coveralls from them in the past. As someone who is about the same size as you, you should know that their suits tend to run tall. Their size small fits me fine width-wise, but in terms of height it was better suited to someone over 5ft10.
  12. I believe they used buckram for the cods in the film. Personally I used Volare closed cell foam for mine, but that's what I had around. I def wouldn't use glue. Adhesives on white fabric tend to turn yellow.
  13. Jeremy, I think the markings for your riding patches and thigh straps look good. With your cod, the positioning is definitely better. I'm wondering -- do you have any sort of padding or stiffener inserted? Another small pointer, try and center your drop box strap parachute clips in front. They look fine in the back.
  14. It should be black. You're looking for black pig suede.
  15. Hi Jeremy, great work! I don't see any basic clearance issues with what you've posted so far. Dennis mentioned your cod, and I would advise bringing the whole thing up a smidge...maybe an inch, so it'll lie flatter on the front of your body. Also, another refinement I would encourage you to look at is bringing the back size connecting points of your drop boxes inwards a bit. If you look at the CRL model, you can see that they're fairly close, under the detonator box. Great work so far. Keep it coming.
  16. Up to you. I do think you're on the safe side, so I'd just hold off until the bund/cod arrives.
  17. Pretty much looks a-ok from here. The butt flap might be a bit long, but I'd leave it as is until we can see it in comparison with your belt and drop boxes. Have you made a pattern for your cod yet? A common mis-step with the front side of the suede patches is to have the top L and R angles poking out from the sides of the cod. I don't *think* you will have that issue with the current width of your patches, but you might want to double check. And even then, it's an easy fix -- most folks just round the top Land R edges of the suede patches. As I said, I don't think you'll have that problem though.
  18. This type should work for you: https://www.amazon.com/Barge-All-Purpose-Cement-Rubber-Leather/dp/B00B5XDPLC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=barge+cement&qid=1612395503&sr=8-4 As with anything, test first!
  19. Barge cement is what shoe repair places use and is a very strong type of contact cement. If you haven't used it before, I'd experiment with some scrap leather first. Shoe Goo will probably work though.
  20. That toe strip is pretty firmly glued on, at least it was for the pair he sent me. I can't see it getting trimmed easily without mangling the overall look. Does the leather on the heel overlap the back of the sole when you're wearing them, or just when they're loose on the floor? You could use some shoe goo or barge cement to glue the sides of the leather dogbone down. You shouldn't need a lot of glue to do so -- just try to put something in the shaft of the boot to keep it oriented upright, so it doesn't sag backwards.
  21. Your tube length looks ok from here, but it will depend on your build. The smooth zip tie is not a problem, you can leave it.
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