Chopper

Hey man, everything seems to look pretty good so far. Since I know you're interested in Level 2, my comments below are regarding Level 2 fit and adjustments. The legs don't look super tight in the photos. Does it feel like you're going to rip out of them if you bend your knees or squat? The thigh straps do look a little tight. You want them to be snug, but not overly pulling the fabric and suede, or like, cutting the circulation off of your legs. Your thigh straps should be about half-way between the belt and your knee armor, but it's more of a ballpark rather than a perfect/exact measurement for placement. I'm making an eyeball estimate, but I'd say yours could come up about 1 inch if you're replacing/adjusting them anyhow. The cod is fitting and sitting in a good place. My concern from a Level 2 perspective is that the arc on the cod seems fairly high. @Retrofire any comments on your end?

For me, it was the outside of the back of the vest. It's covered by the bund, so you don't see it. Either outside or inside will work though.

No problem, Rob, and thanks so much. The Armory team will review and get back to you shortly.

Hi Rob, thank you for your submission. We cannot currently see your photos, so if you could please post them within your application post via an image hosting provider, then we'll be happy to proceed with reviewing your Lancer request.

Congrats!

That's very interesting about the strapping. RS worked with us pretty closely on the build and those measurements have been pretty stable for quite a while, so I'm a bit surprised. Thank you for letting us know. Right on with the velcro. I used the self adhesive on my armor parts and sew on for the soft goods and strapping. You prob don't even need to reinforce it with E6000. I've got 50+ troops and the self adhesive from my initial build is still holding up on it's own. Just make sure the inside surface is clean and it should stick and stay pretty well.

I used sewn on velcro for most of my strapping, as I like having adjustability. However, if you don't have a sewing machine, then that wouldn't be an easy option. RS used CA (aka Super Glue) for their strapping. It's not hard to pull it off, you just need to pull it firmly but slowly. Out of curiosity, what straps are you replacing? Were some of the RS supplied widths not in line with the CRL?

Hi Manoah, overall your build looks really solid and it is well proportioned and fitted to your frame. I don't think you will have any issues with basic clearance from that respect. You should be proud of yourself. I agree with your self-assessment that the weathering is on the heavy side. It's actually under the Level 1 part of the CRL where it says "lightly weathered", but that's with your local GML. I suspect you will likely be ok, but it could be a potential issue. For Level 2, you would need to take the weathering down. That said, I still encourage you to apply for Lancer whenever you feel ready to do so and we'll work through it. Again, nice work documenting your build and great job with finally finishing the process!

Sounds good Andy, let us know. Looking forward to having you as a part of the garrison in the near future as well. Also your build is good motivation for me to work on assembling my own RS kit, which has been sitting in a box for longer than I'd like to admit, hah.

Nice work. The ear hole and lower faceplate cuts look solid to me. Also that's some clever ingenuity for laying down the helmet details. Nice job overall.

The problem that arose with the rivets is that people stated using these large flange head rivets. My guess is that some builders started shipping them with their kits as they stated showing up about 2ish years ago. The issue has caused some confusion in the past. Put simply, you don't want to use these: These, which look like the type that you have, should be fine for Level 2. And before you start altering your armor, if you want to give us a look at your end caps and tank bottom, or anything else you have questions about, that'd be awesome. @Retrofireand I are here if you want to get feedback on anything.

Much better. Great job.

Ok sure, just let us know about your kit and we can take a look. We've had quite a few successful RS Lancer Scouts, so I don't think you should have too many issues, if any, with the hard parts. Oh, and in addition to the threads I posted, make sure you double check everything again the current CRL. There have been some minor changes over the years, which might not be accounted for in the build thread from 2017: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper

Hey Andy, welcome. Based on your location it looks like you'll be in my garrison, with Old Line? The sizing on the IB coveralls tend to run long, especially in the torso. I have two of their flight suits and I've had to take them both to the tailor for alterations to shorten the length a bit. It's not a hard job for a professional, but it's unfortunate that the IB sizing is a bit wonky like that. As you work through your build, I recommend that you take a look at the following posts: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/ And if you're interested in Level 2, I suggest that you browse some of the more recent Lancer Applications: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/51-lancer-deployment-request/ Let us know if you have any questions about your build. Pete @Retrofire and I are here to help and are happy to answer any questions you might have about your build.

Figured this might be of use for folks who are building the DLT20 rifle. Was originally posted on "The Parts of Star Wars" Facebook page.

Awesome Job, James!

Rivets are not required to attach the black drill style clips to the detonator. Most people just use them because that's the easiest way to do it. If you can secure it with flathead screws or something similar then that would be fine. The mounting point faces the inside, so we wouldn't be able to see the attachment method anyhow.

Yeah, if you can access and fold back the long left edge that way, then that'd work.

I'd say it looks pretty good so far. You've got the right tone down, for sure.

The "No visible external edge stitching" phrasing from the Level 2 part of the CRL primarily concerns the lower edge of the bund, meaning you shouldn't have a top stitch there. As Mickey mentioned, this does not include the velcro, which is in both the CRL photos as well as the Scoutopedia.

Congratulations, Delta. You did a great job!

Most excellent. Looks really good.

Nice and welcome to the Pathfinders. Keep us updated as your build progresses.

I've got Gio's Sierra Scout underboot in hand! I've gotta say, these are really, REALLY great and a huge thanks to Gio for making something the Scout community has asked about for quite some time. While the overall shape looks similar to an off-the-shelf work boot, there's no hard shell in the toe. This means that the shape of the forefoot will conform a bit more under the vinyl and not have that rigid shape that you can get from using a work boot. The Sierra Sneakers didn't have a rigid toe either, so this is a good thing! Here's some photos for you all compared to the vintage Sierra's. Enjoy!

There's no exact rule here. The end of the velcro closure on the back of the bund does not need to be exactly, perfectly centered along the centerline of the tank. You can see some examples in the Scoutopedia that there was some variation in the fit between the ROTJ scouts. The best guidance I can tell you is that the closure should be "generally" around the center back of the body. If the fit of your bund matches the CRL example image, then you should be a-ok. If you're a little to the left, or a little to the right, that's ok too. Whenever you're ready to get suited up, we can take a look and give you some feedback.