Chopper

Congrats Lancer!

Hi Logan, of all the available helmets, the WTF is probably the most difficult to assemble, so congrats on completing the build! One tip -- I would try and clean up a few uneven spots on the helmet with a file or emory board. Mostly around the visor and top of the eyeslot. See where I've marked in green.

Gio at Crowprops makes custom boots. I'm not sure how wide his scout boot soles can go, but shoot him an email to find out: https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/contact

In short -- yes, it's definitely worth it. The price you'd pay to a tailor to even add small things like velcro would quickly exceed the cost of a sewing machine. Some items are certainly easier to create than others, but most of us didn't have a lot of sewing experience prior to joining. I'm not sure about picking up items from a thrift store, but most of the scout items can be easily acquired from amazon, jo-ann fabrics, etc. For coveralls, people typically use either the black Red Kap, or the Kolossus brands. Dickies will work as well. Some tips and general guidance are contained in the following posts as well: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19967-soft-parts-best-practices/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19259-undersuit-mods/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/12485-build-your-own-vest-wpictures/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22706-cummerbundcod-material/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/

Ah that's a bummer. The Kingshow boots used to be relatively inexpensive, so you can always use the current pair for practice if you end up grabbing a second pair. Up to you. One of the things to note when cutting the soles is that you don't need to cut the slots all that deep. Even 1/8" should be good. A lot of folks like to map out the pattern in pencil on their boots before cutting. it also helps to cut the sides with a sharp exacto blade, then use a "chisel" style exacto blade to cut the wedge out. Overall, it's prob okay for basic clearance (actually you don't even need to do the cuts for basic), but I'd double check with your local garrison's GML first. From 6 feet out it's not going to be very noticeable.

Well you've spotted an inadvertent mistake in our CRL, Arne. Thank you for bringing that to our attention! The intent was to use 1.5 inch strapping for both the chest and drop box straps -- the 38mm vs 40mm in metric was an unintentional inconsistency. Either 38mm or 40mm should be fine for your build.

For the bicep armor, he's a good example of about where you should make the cut. Does that help? For the belt, if you want to trim that lip down 1mm or so, so that it's flush with the belt, then go for it. It shouldn't matter for basic clearance though.

Hi Dave, thank you very much for the photo. However, to reiterate what Retrofire requested on 10 Oct: Please take the highest resolution photos you can of: front right left back and link them via your Flickr account so we can zoom in. From there we can do our final review assessment and hopefully we should be good to go. Thank you again!

The flak vest is required for basic approval. I suspect that your GML, who does the initial 501st clearance, will give you the same answer.

Hiya Frank, Looks like you're off to a good start. Mon Cal/Far Away Creations armor is pretty great. A lot of people use those circular adhesive velcro tabs that you can get at the hardware store to help keep their helmet faceplate closed. Up to you, but you might want to replace the Kropserkel helmet bolts for the 3M style bolts: https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Metal-Honeywell-FM4001-Quick-Lok-Adapter/dp/B002BUMS8Y/ref=psdc_7491811011_t1_B015MG1SMK Your clips are likely ok from what I can see, though we can take another look once you put your belt on if you'd like.

Yes, that width is what you're looking for.

No, that's what's called the "pull length" or "grip range". That length can be whatever you need for the parts you're riveting The CRL is referring to the flange (circular head) size.

Congrats Chris. A job well done.

Hi Arne, just one small note on the pouches -- I see that there's external stitching along the front flap portion. Note that the stitching should be inside the seam, not external to seam. See the CRL photos for what I mean:

That would entirely depend as to whether or not the helmets are clearcoated over the decals or not. The RS helmets and many others use vinyl adhesive decals for the vertical black stripes. Just looking at the photos, it seems that the new image decals are clearcoated. You could email them to ask about it easily enough though.

You are correct. From the production helmets:

For basic clearance, the only thing to note is that you should make sure that your bund and pouch tabs are under your chest armor. bring your bicep armor up a bit as well. And if that's all part of what you're working on with the velcro, then I'd say you should be good to go, once cleared up. Great job Chris!

Hey Chris, thanks for mentioning the DLT vendor that you ended up ordering from. Please let us know what your experience is like and the quality of what you receive.

I believe what you're looking for is this: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/

There used to be more options a few years ago -- diamond state props, hyperfirm, praetorian. Sadly I don't believe any of them are active any longer. I can't recall, do you have access to a 3D printer, or no?

If you're referring to the photo below, what you're seeing is the way that the elastic for the chinstrap is threaded through the side portions of the helmet. That said, a number of people have used those little circular velcro dots that you can get at the hardware store to help hold the faceplate closed. It doesn't take much velcro adhesion to keep it in place.

Hi Dave, thank you for your continued patience. Please keep in mind that the Lancer review is a team process, so we have to make sure that all parties get a chance to weigh in. Feedback is not always instantaneous, but rest assured, we will get back to you shortly. Thank you again!

One caveat we usually offer is that if you order from KriptonTop, make sure to pay for FedEx shipping.

A lot of people use these from trooperbay: https://trooperbay.com/biker-scout-tank-decals If you don't mind cutting it yourself, you can also use 1/8" automotive pinstriping.

Try this one: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/