Chopper

@Meowied_Cass or @M.Jcan you give me some more info on Temporal Armoury? I try to stay on top of the various scout vendors, but this is a new one for me!

The blaster you have appears to be a finished 3D print. If it's printed in ABS, then I would expect it to be fairly durable. Aside from that, unless you know the exact creator of the model, it's tricky to tell you much more. Much like the 3D armor models, quality and accuracy can vary. If you're looking for a comparison with the other blasters which have been reviewed in the past, the main feature that stands out to me is the singlepoint scope. It appears to be longer than those used on the DVH, Praetorian, or RS blasters.

Update -- link to @woobiee's review of RS Prop's Lineage Scout Holdout Blaster: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22936-a-look-at-rss-lineage-ec-17/#comment-215008

Looks great dude!

Good review, Andy. Thank you for that. Goes to show that Lou really did his homework. Hopefully whomever bought his molds will continue the tradition.

I suggest maybe forgetting about adhering to specific dimensions and just try drawing a basic pattern for the patches on your coveralls in chalk. Does it look right? Good. If not, wipe it off and try again. Once you get the chalk dimensions sorted, you can work from there.

Hey, welcome Josiah. I'm also in Maryland. Listen to Mickey about the 3D armor files! And please let us know if you have any questions as you progress through your build!

Your only other option is Imperial Boots: https://www.imperialboots.com/product/biker_scout_gloves/ They do orders in monthly waves lasting the first week of the month. The Feb wave is open right now. Otherwise, @M.J might know if someone in the area is selling a used pair locally.

Do you have an ace hardware near you? These are the exact rivets and back up plates I used, but we have about a million Ace Hardwares around here. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/fastening-tools/rivets/2014058 https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/fastening-tools/rivets/2014041 If you want to go with Lowes, the best option I can find for 1/8 rivets is the variety pack. Just don't mix up the steel and aluminum ones. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Arrow-120-Pack-1-8-in-Varies-Aluminum-Rivets/1087323 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Arrow-30-Count-0-131-x-3-8-in-Aluminum-Standard-SAE-Flat-Washers/1087319 The big thing about steel is if you need to remove the rivet -- it's not impossible, but it's really, really difficult. Let's try and keep things easy, right?

The "mandrel" is the part that gets popped off when you use the rivet gun, but let's see if there's a better option that doesn't involve steel. Wait one please.

They do look a little small, but it's difficult to tell with it on the floor. Would it be possible to post some photos of you wearing it?

Good luck!

Folks, if we're going to start debating Dengar's weapons, may I suggest that we either stay on topic or continue the discussion in "The Barracks" 😁 http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/17-the-barracks/

Congrats and thanks for all of your hard work.

I bought a rivet gun when I did my first scout build and I've used it for plenty of other things afterward. It's a worthwhile purchase if you plan on building other kits or craft stuff in the future. This is the one I bought. It's not the absolutely cheapest available, but it's well built, so it'll last you for quite a while: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XAQ8Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are the rivets you should get -- 1/8" aluminum rivets with at least a 1/4" pull. Make sure you get aluminum, not steel! https://www.amazon.com/ISPINNER-100pcs-Aluminum-Blind-Rivets/dp/B07R5HYWRW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2TUI0LN9GORSK&keywords=1%2F8"%2Brivets%2Baluminum&qid=1643933190&sprefix=1%2F8%2Brivets%2Baluminum%2Caps%2C80&sr=8-4&th=1 And then you'll need some 1/8" back up plates, also in aluminum: https://www.amazon.com/Arrow-Fastener-WA1-Aluminum-30-Count/dp/B0006906GS/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2NWOVR9RFF46D&keywords=1%2F8"+backup+plates+aluminum&qid=1643933451&sprefix=1%2F8+back+up+plates+aluminum%2Caps%2C54&sr=8-2 Off the top of my head, I'd say you'll need twelve minimum? Tank top, tank bottom, L/R belt, two in each knee, and 4 in the holster.You may also want to rivet in the clips to your det tubing, but that's not CRL specified. Overall, I'd say that it's easier to just buy the packs and not worry about it if you misfire a rivet while building. Let me know if you have any other questions.

As with the ROTJ scout helmet, getting the "bar code" to align right is nigh impossible. Basically, just pick a parallel line on the helmet to align with and stick with that one -- regardless of how it may look from other viewing angles.

That should be an easy fix. Glue a piece of scrap styrene behind it, then fill and sand the cut with ABS paste. Or at worst, you can email Jeff at SC and buy another drop box a la carte. We've all been there and had to send that email.

Oh ok, gotcha. Yeah the way the bolt is affixed to the helmet, because we can't see it, is up to personal preference.

Can you clarify what you mean by squared instead of rounded? As per the CRL for level 2: Helmet bolts are Gray 3M bolts or other replicas with concave centers. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). If not using the 3M bolts, then they will need to be a reproduction of the same. For example, several helmet makers use cast versions that are visually indistinguishable. The amazon link is here: https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Metal-Honeywell-FM4001-Quick-Lok-Adapter/dp/B002BUMS8Y/ref=psdc_7491811011_t1_B015MG1SMK

I think what you have in the photo looks fine, Ron. Maybe you could hit what's left with an emory board a bit, but otherwise, I think you're good.

Yes, absolutely. I've found that the Kolossus coveralls fit better myself, for the same reasons. The elastic in the back does pose a small challenge to mounting the butt flap, but if you stitch the flap above the elastic area, then you won't have to deal with trying to stitch suede onto scrunched fabric.

Comparing the two, I would go with the the Mr. Poopie files as well.

Aside from probably RS and Strider's armor, no kit is going to be 100% accurate. Nor do we ask for 100% accuracy with Lancer reviews -- that would severely limit the armor types that folks could use. Properly built, fitted, and finished, both SC and Mr. Poopie's armor are acceptable for Level 2. Off the top of my head, I cannot recall a Level 2 app using Mr. Poopie's files, but the designs are good enough to do so. Our list of gear that does not meet ROTJ Scout Level 2 standards is here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/

It does look a little wide, but I'd try fitting it again with a sweatshirt or set of coveralls on before you start reprinting.

If you glue a piece of some scrap styrene behind the hole, you can mix up some abs paste, fill it, and sand it down. Then you can re-drill it to the desired rivet diameter. Here's a link from whitearmor on making abs paste: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/