Chopper

Cucblack/Kriptontop does make one of the larger sized helmets, but it shouldn't prevent you from getting approved. In addition to what Aliaz said, you might want to pull you cod up a bit. It should lay flat on the front of your body, and not get pulled underneath, between your legs. Otherwise, you look good

You shouldn't need to glue the tank onto the back of the armor. The tanks in ROTJ were pretty wobbly and only attached with a loop of elastic. From what I recall, SC has a small bump on the back armor. If you want it more secure, you can use the bump to attach the rivet through the tank topper, tank, and back armor.

This is the metal clip commonly used to hold the det tube onto the belt. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010EAQUEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cTyeCbPMZCX46

I wanted to echo that your cut pattern looks dead on! BTW, if you don't have a hot knife, I found that it was helpful to alternate between standard x-acto blades for cutting the sides, and a chisel style x-acto blade when it's time to remove the entire piece.

I think your outline looks a-ok overall. My 2 cents, but you might want to round those top 90 degree angles a bit, as per the CRL model. Aside from that, the shape and placement looks alright to me.

The band mark you've got set up appears to be about in the right place, yeah.

If you can't see any suede at all from the back, then that's not enough. Keep in mind the detailed CRL photos are of the coveralls laying on a flat surface. They shape changes when it's actually on someone's legs. The photo posted by M.J. above, as well as the overall biker scout photo in the CRL are ideal guidelines to use. The elastic does not have to go all the way around the thigh. Many secure it just inside the edges of the suede. However, when I first made my coveralls, I was having trouble with the suede bunching due to the elastic pulling, so I actually sewed mine in place as a loop around the leg, then I sewed the suede on top, while the elastic was secured in place. You don't have to do it that way, it's just what ended up working for me.

No problem, bud. That's what we're here for.

Here's some photos of my belt set up. Hope that helps.

That chest plate and some of the other parts look an awful lot like a MC kit, but I'd need to take a closer look before being certain of it.

Yep yep. Like Digger said. Sew non-adhesive hook velcro onto the elastic strapping, and put the adhesive loop velcro onto the inside of the knee/forearm, bicep armor. Here's a photo of my armor parts, so you can see:

Congrats my dude and welcome to Lancerdom!

Spike offers his Altmann armor, which fits bigger folks well. Deep him a pm if you want to check out his wares.

Some vendors supply their parts fully (or mostly) trimmed. Others supply their parts with only a rough cut. Walt's armor tends to fall into the later category. You can draw a top and bottom line in pencil that aligns with the horizontal edges of the boxes and make the cut using lexan scissors. Other folks use the score and snap methods. I prefer the control of scissors and then follow it up with emory board sanding to smooth the edges out.

That's the same one I use in my current helmet. You should be a-ok to use it.

Very interested to see SC's new chest and back plates.

It looks like it's base is built from a STG-44. A photo of the prop is here https://bit.ly/2QfZAb6, but I can put some feelers out to see if I can find someone who finished one of the Diamond State Prop versions for a CRL photo.

Yeah man, the riding patches were one of the toughest parts when I did my undersuit, so I can sympathize. Are you hand sewing or using a machine? We're here if you need a progress check.

I think your coveralls look pretty good, dude. You might want to take the legs in slightly more, but you're certainly in the right ballpark. Are they baggy behind the knee armor elastic?

Congrats Frank!

The shape of the Palladium would make for a great base boot, if it wasn't for the sole pattern making the cut outs so tricky. I believe there's also a Palladium logo at the back of the heel, correct? If you wanted to use those for level 2, you'd need to do the boot cuts, remove any logos, and, if the boots in the photo are the version you're working with, you'd also need to paint the sides of the soles with acrylic paint. Most troopers use the King Show work boot for Lancer spec boots, it has the proper gum sole and is relatively inexpensive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017THAWJU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

The biggest issue I can see is the sole of the base boot. Even with the cuts, the sole has two different colors and the sole stitching is visible. Ideally you want a base boot with a gum/wheat colored sole that's a single color. As per the CRL "The boots have slots cut into the heels and toes as seen in the film. The boot sole is a single color with no visible stitching. Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused." I also noticed that the cover strip around the toe of the boot tapers. It should be straight all the way across. Finally, and this is super small stuff, but the double stitching on the dog bone extends a bit too far. This photo of one of the real boots should help show you what I mean. All that said, they do look like a well made set of boots. Just a few mods needed for level 2.

Aside from issues of fit with relation to the armor, those boots should be ok for basic. However they will not work for Lancer. If you're holding out on a pair of sierra sneakers, I'd encourage you to commission a pair of boots that will work for level 2 as well. Sierra's are pretty rare, so it might be a while, and why limit yourself ?

Congrats!

You'd only need to tea-dye the drop box straps, side straps, and optionally the shoulder bridges. The webbing at the back of the belt should remain white and not be dyed.