Chopper

Hey there, if you're not looking to join the 501st, then you're welcome to customize as much as you want. For 501st approval, you're pretty much restricted to what's detailed in the CRL.

Congrats! Great work Lancer!

This is the vinyl I ended up using when I built my boots. Fairly smooth surface without a lot of grain. https://www.fabricguru.com/marine-vinyl/marine-grade-vinyl-outdoor-upholstery-fabric-white.html

Once you have 5 posts you'll be able to access the vendor forum. DVH posts his blaster runs there.

Well, some of the parts look ok, but you'd definitely need to replace or mod a number of items prior to approval: The belt would definitely need to be replaced, as well as the knee armor. (That looks like snowtrooper knee armor?) You'd need to take the black mark off of the drop boxes. Also, the helmet nose greeblie would likely need replacing as well. (Looks like a sticker behind the engine part?) I understand that cost can be an issue, but given that there's already a few items that you'd have to replace out of the box, I'd encourage you to go with one of the vendors.

Cucblack/Kriptontop does make one of the larger sized helmets, but it shouldn't prevent you from getting approved. In addition to what Aliaz said, you might want to pull you cod up a bit. It should lay flat on the front of your body, and not get pulled underneath, between your legs. Otherwise, you look good

You shouldn't need to glue the tank onto the back of the armor. The tanks in ROTJ were pretty wobbly and only attached with a loop of elastic. From what I recall, SC has a small bump on the back armor. If you want it more secure, you can use the bump to attach the rivet through the tank topper, tank, and back armor.

This is the metal clip commonly used to hold the det tube onto the belt. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010EAQUEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cTyeCbPMZCX46

I wanted to echo that your cut pattern looks dead on! BTW, if you don't have a hot knife, I found that it was helpful to alternate between standard x-acto blades for cutting the sides, and a chisel style x-acto blade when it's time to remove the entire piece.

I think your outline looks a-ok overall. My 2 cents, but you might want to round those top 90 degree angles a bit, as per the CRL model. Aside from that, the shape and placement looks alright to me.

The band mark you've got set up appears to be about in the right place, yeah.

If you can't see any suede at all from the back, then that's not enough. Keep in mind the detailed CRL photos are of the coveralls laying on a flat surface. They shape changes when it's actually on someone's legs. The photo posted by M.J. above, as well as the overall biker scout photo in the CRL are ideal guidelines to use. The elastic does not have to go all the way around the thigh. Many secure it just inside the edges of the suede. However, when I first made my coveralls, I was having trouble with the suede bunching due to the elastic pulling, so I actually sewed mine in place as a loop around the leg, then I sewed the suede on top, while the elastic was secured in place. You don't have to do it that way, it's just what ended up working for me.

No problem, bud. That's what we're here for.

Here's some photos of my belt set up. Hope that helps.

That chest plate and some of the other parts look an awful lot like a MC kit, but I'd need to take a closer look before being certain of it.

Yep yep. Like Digger said. Sew non-adhesive hook velcro onto the elastic strapping, and put the adhesive loop velcro onto the inside of the knee/forearm, bicep armor. Here's a photo of my armor parts, so you can see:

Congrats my dude and welcome to Lancerdom!

Spike offers his Altmann armor, which fits bigger folks well. Deep him a pm if you want to check out his wares.

Some vendors supply their parts fully (or mostly) trimmed. Others supply their parts with only a rough cut. Walt's armor tends to fall into the later category. You can draw a top and bottom line in pencil that aligns with the horizontal edges of the boxes and make the cut using lexan scissors. Other folks use the score and snap methods. I prefer the control of scissors and then follow it up with emory board sanding to smooth the edges out.

That's the same one I use in my current helmet. You should be a-ok to use it.

Very interested to see SC's new chest and back plates.

It looks like it's base is built from a STG-44. A photo of the prop is here https://bit.ly/2QfZAb6, but I can put some feelers out to see if I can find someone who finished one of the Diamond State Prop versions for a CRL photo.

Yeah man, the riding patches were one of the toughest parts when I did my undersuit, so I can sympathize. Are you hand sewing or using a machine? We're here if you need a progress check.

I think your coveralls look pretty good, dude. You might want to take the legs in slightly more, but you're certainly in the right ballpark. Are they baggy behind the knee armor elastic?

Congrats Frank!