Chopper

Yeah, while it can be done, you'll likely spend more time and energy on it than it's really worth. That, and the fact that you'll need a LOT of coats of white to cover up the black, and even then, you'll have to deal with the possibility of the paint cracking when the armor flexes. If you reg on the spec ops board you can likely sell it, then use the funds to buy a biker scout kit.

Progress continues: Working on fit and positioning of the bund. I think my bund is too long. My guess is that I need to take maybe an inch or an inch and a half off the bottom. Does that assessment sound correct, Kashyyyk armorers? I also finished up my trouser pockets. They're just pinned in position right now. I'll sew them in later. And finally, I'm used to the snug fit of the scout coveralls. I keep feeling like I need to take in the legs and arms of my DPM fatigues. I'll need to open up the legs anyhow to sew the riding patch. Should the trousers fit more relaxed than the scout coveralls, or about the same?

Great job dude!

I understand. We'll do our best to clarify whatever questions you have.

Hi Loïc and thank you very much for your application! The Level 2 review team has reviewed your photos and we have some feedback that we'd like you to address: Helmet -The close up detail of the MLC helmet shows that the upper snout detail is painted grey with vent holes cut into the plastic. For level 2, the grey and black detail should use a decal, with no holes, as per the film helmets. Example below: Flight Suit -The leg elastic on your flight suit is quite tight. You should loosen it slightly. -You will need to add a collar closure to your flight suit -Your back flap appears to be too narrow. Ideally, it should extend approximately 1.5" (38mm) further on each side for proper fitment Shoulder Armor, Chest Armor, Back Armor -Your back armor is pulling your chest armor up, which is then pulling back your shoulder bells. You should look at affixing your chest armor onto your front, so it doesn't slide back. Also, you might need to trim a very small amount of the back armor shoulder bridge, so everything aligns and sits properly. -Your should bridge covers appear to be 1.5" (40mm), they should be between 0.5" (12mm) and 1" (25mm) wide as per the CRL. -Your side straps appear to use 1.5" (40mm) cotton twill tape. As per the CRL, they should be white cotton webbing. Upper Arm Armor -Bicep armor strapping appears to be 35mm. As per the CRL, it should be 50mm. Forearm Armor and Gloves -When you re-take your photos, please reposition your forearm armor lower, so they overlap the gloves. Cummerbund -Please move your pouches outwards, so they sit approximately 1 inch from the outermost cummerbund rib on each side. Belt and Detonator -Your detonator tubing appears to be silver. It should be medium to light grey. -Can you please provide detail shots on the drop box webbing? From your overalls shots it looks like the same twill tape that was used for the side webbing? If so, the strapping there should also be 1.5 inches (38mm) wide and made of white cotton webbing. Knee Armor -The rivets securing the upper elastic strap are painted white. As per the CRL, the rivets should be silver in color. I realize this seems like a lengthy list, but a great deal of it is strapping and fitment adjustments. The entire Level 2 team is here if you need any assistance, advice, or guidance. Please let us know. Thank you again. You can do this!

Congrats dude!

Studio lighting, ambient lighting, and camera settings can all influence the way these costumes appear on screen, as opposed to in real life. The pouches and webbing are ok to dye off-white, as per the crl. The bund and cod should not be dyed. The best example I can find of the contrasting colors on screen is here: In other words, I think you're good

Both MC and SC are good choices. Jeff recently updated his molds, so I don't think you'll be disappointed in the route you took. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your build.

Great work on your application!

Teri, The Level 2 review team has reviewed your submission and we're happy to report that we approve your application as Lancer! Congratulations! You did a great job!

You can rivet them. I chose to use snaps in case they got twisted in my bin for whatever reason. Ideally, the straps should meet in the middle of the back of the belt. A photo is worth 1000 words, so here's what my setup looks like:

Yeah @TwistedZen there's not a whole lot of 19X vendors at the moment. You could try contacting diamond state props via facebook to see if they're planning on doing any upcoming runs, but I know they've scaled back quite a bit since 2018.

Hey man, yeah, with the exception of that outdoors ellicott city troop last July, I can't recall normally sweating that much. Though normally my set up is just coveralls, flak vest, and bund. I wonder if the under armor is one layer too many?

Looks pretty good, dude.

Thanks Rob. I'll be really curious to see how both the RS blaster and the DVH v3 compare to the Praetorian holdout blaster that's in production as well. This is a great time to be a scout!

Hi Teri, thank you very much for your Lancer deployment request! Overall, we think you did an excellent job. I'm really impressed with your soft goods, as well as how you modified the SC helmet eye slot to look more screen accurate. We do have some corrections below that we'd like you to make for your application: Chest/Back Armor and Belt It looks like your chest and back armor is riding quite low, which is pushing down your belt positioning. I recommend that you look at repositioning your chest and back armor higher on your body. This will entail trimming the front and rear shoulder bridges a bit more, and you might want to look a small amount off of the bottom ridge of the chest armor as well. The image below is a guideline for a better armor and belt position. Bicep Armor Once you get your chest armor re-adjusted, you will likely need to bring your bicep armor up about an inch bit as well. Shoulder Armor Please sand the vertical edge where you cut in on both bells a bit smoother. Right now it looks like a hard angle and it should be rounded. Tank and Pistol Please refinish your tank topper and pistol so the 3D printed ridges are no longer visible. I recommend using Rustoleum high build primer to help eliminate the print lines. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-12-oz-Gray-2-in-1-Filler-Sandable-Primer-Spray-260510/205751603?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-202097276-_-204707457-_-N OPTIONAL UPDATES: Belt The nylon webbing at the back of the belt should be 2", though it's not currently listed in the CRL, which is 100% on us. The webbing in your photos looks a bit narrower than 2", so if this is the case, you might want to consider upgrading it in the future.

Wow that looks really close. Great job on Lou's part!

I didn't purchase the scout blaster from RS, but I did test out the holster with my DVH v3 blaster. Fits pretty well. If anyone has the RS blaster, I'd be curious to see the comparison with how it fits in the holster.

Hi Kevin, If you look at the image in the CRL for the 19X, there's no bipod.

Yeah exactly, I built one using the wrap method myself and it was just too heavy, so I went back to the ribbed hose for trooping practicality.

I'm glad that WW is working towards a better glove. @ferra, you're one of the senior kashy's. What do you think?

Ah ok, I wasn't sure if he was the same RS props Rob. Thanks Mickey.

Agreed, I plan to send them an email shortly. Not sure if they're still lurking the boards? @RS Prop Masters?

I bought the armor only set not long after they opened up orders. I sent them an email asking for it not to be assembled.

I had bought the armor only set, not a kit. I did send them an email asking for it not to be assembled early on, but I honestly can't recall if I heard a yay or nay on it. I would've been ok with either showing up at my door. About 6 months later, this is what arrived in the mail.