MrPoopie

Uploading photos of Raj's build. Mostly finished parts. Full resolution pics at Flickr.

I've got files that I created for the scope on the DLT 19X that you could cast as an addition if you're feeling up for it.

Great work Lancer.

I too am waiting until this is released so I can build mine.

Thanks for continuing to help out the Scout community and keep us moving forward.

I have, and anyone who needs them for personal use please just PM me. Otherwise any makers can PM and we can work something out.

Gloves: The clip as well as the leather attachment tab need to be removed. Blaster: Correct, filled. Use the "auction Blaster" (Scoutopedia) as a reference, NOT the "Hero Blaster" Holster: Yes, you'll need to fill the cuts that you already made with ABS paste or something similar and then cut them out again. The best reference is that they should only be about as thick as a dremel cutting wheel. Shoulder: Good call, better to make sure than have to rebuild the shoulders straps.

Thanks for your patience and additional photos. Our initial review and findings are below. Please don't hesitate to ask for details or guidance. Overall: Your armor fits fairly well but some adjustments with armor spacing. The main areas to work on are the bund and shoulders. Flight Suit: Butt flap is a bit too long, remove 1” from bottom, and a bit too wide, remove 1.5” per side. Slightly loose thigh straps, need to be brought in just a bit to snug them up. Visible pocket on right leg needs to be removed. Shoulder Armor: Sitting a bit too far back, but that's because of the shoulder bridge attachment. You need to trim maybe 1/2" off the front bridge, and 1/2" off the back, which will make the shoulder bells and chest armor sit a bit further forward. You should overlap and tape the front and back parts first to get a good fit before trimming. Shoulders bottoms may need to be trimmed just slightly but we’ll need to see when the shoulders and chest are adjusted properly. Bicep Armor: Bring up 3/4" - 1" Forearm Armor: Move armor forward to the 10 and 2 o'clock positions Gloves: Need to remove clips Cummerbund: Bund is upside down. Closure at the back should be right over left. Need to remove secondary stitching line between Velcro. The only stitching that should be present are on the outer edges of the 2” Velcro closure. Chest Armor: See notes above for shoulders Back Armor: See notes above for shoulders Belt: Round the squared edges on the back corners of the belt where it joins the webbing. Center the buckles on the back straps. Holster: Corners should be more rounded. Cutouts are too thick; the gap should be thinner. Blaster: You will need to use some plastic cutouts or something similar to close off the hole in the front of the scope as well as the hole in the interior of the rear of the scope.

Great job.

The fit in the holster looks good. Can we see the other angles of the blaster, in particular the front as well as the back of the scope. There are required details for those areas.

Yessir.

Can you submit a photo of your balaclava and blaster. No need for measurements, just need to see that they exists. The blaster does need a few different angles and to make sure that it fits in your holster.

Thank you for the extra photos. We'll continue our initial review.

Can you please provide the following detail photos: Back of vest velcro with measurement Chest/Back side webbing with measurement Tank Topper detail photo with measurement of rivet Detail of closure on cummerbund with measurement Measurement of codpiece strap Measurement of dropbox strapping Measurement of rear nylon belt strapping

That should work. I think we went through almost 3 - 1oz. bottles of white and 1 - 1oz. of the gloss.

Congratulations. (sorry, late to the game). Making Ranger is no small feat. Great job and here's to another 100.

This is the exact boot, but the ones you have are very similar and would look almost exactly the same once the shin was in place. https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/alpinestars-smx-6-v2-vented-boots?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4uaUBhC8ARIsANUuDjWHrIVkVEeB8Iau6iK4iF3Mnv-TPtRkXFxiZDSo4GPJfWt9fnHB6JYaAtzTEALw_wcB

Those should work. Just get some shoe/leather paint and you'll be set. I used the stuff below and it took a couple of bottle and something like 5 coats to cover everything sufficiently. You'll also need at least 2 coats of the clear gloss afterwards. https://smile.amazon.com/Angelus-Acrylic-Leather-Paint-White/dp/B0196T961O/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=white%2Bleather%2Bpaint&qid=1654308490&sr=8-5&th=1 https://smile.amazon.com/Angelus-Acrylic-610-Finisher-Gloss/dp/B018R47K94/ref=sr_1_6?crid=304DT79COQNLB&keywords=clear+gloss+leather+paint&qid=1654308576&sprefix=clear+gloss%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-6

That should work but it's difficult to see how tight the knit is. The treadie pants are made of a pretty tight knit fabric.

Congrats and welcome to the team.

Sorry about that. I fixed the link.

These were created by another Pathfinder. https://www.dropbox.com/s/avjilvoa1p3mux8/fotk large pouch (letter sized paper).pdf?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/xnqul6n9af5i0c9/FOTK small pouch (letter sized paper).pdf?dl=0

As long as it's fairly stiff fabric it should work. You'll need to put something inside them to fill out anyway. Let me dig up the patterns and I'll post them.

I've got a pattern if you feel like sewing them yourself.