MrPoopie

We appreciate you working on it. In the meantime we'll take a look at the link you sent.

Thank you for your application. The team will review and get back to you. You need to use a image hosting service such as Flickr, Imgur, or something else. and then link them here.

If you purchased files from me there is a newer version of the endcap that should make it easier to paint as it has an indent on the end. Just go re-download the newer file. If not, it should look like the image below. The black area underneath the "cap" section that you're seeing on the Hot Toys model is just weathering in the cracks which makes it seem darker.

I don't personally have any experience with flexible PLA but in theory it should be usable. If it's for the Patrol Trooper you should print the normal "hard" versions of the parts with flexible PLA instead of the parts specifically designed for TPU. The TPU parts are meant to be printed flat and then curved into the proper shapes. They can't be printed with supports. Flexible PLA should give you the same basic rigidity as normal PLA but with some added "give" to it. It doesn't sound like a bad idea honestly but I would try printing out a couple of smaller test parts to see how to print it as well as it's range of movement. You'll also want to see how well it sands and paints. Flexible parts need to be painted differently than normal rigid parts otherwise the paint will crack and flake. I'll be curious to check out your test parts, this seems like an interesting avenue to explore.

Congrats on the hard work and dedication.

My vision is great out of the lens but my movement is limited. I also have a fairly large nose so the tip of my nose rests against the inside face of the helmet. It's not uncomfortable but it does happen.

Both created their own helmets from scratch. ArmoryShop is a little narrow but will still pass CRL. I think the only way that you'll get an ArmoryShop helmet now is second hand.

It's a great looking helmet but I haven't seen one in the wild. Its' been "Pre-order" for as long as I can remember. The only PT helmets that I've seen in person are ArmoryShop and Luna Armor Works. I have a Luna helmet and it's great. You can also 3D print on if you're up for the challenge.

I personally am not sure about anyone doing full commissions as I think all of our Patrol Troopers built their kits from multiple vendors (armor, soft goods, etc. Someone else may be able to enlighten us on that issue though. As for the mobility part of your question. I'm able to sit down in my kit pretty easily. It's not as comfortable as my Scout but it's not difficult either. The cod piece is only attached at the belt with Velcro on the backside so it moves freely. My mid-section is printed using TPU (flexible filament) and has a decent amount of flex and give so it's not as rigid as some other kits. The chest and back cab be a bit bulky but they are not attached to the mid section so there's room for movement there. The area where I have the most trouble is the neck. The bottom of the helmet sits very close to the upper shoulder bridges and neck collar so side to side head movement and looking downward can be a bit of a struggle at times. It's a worthwhile kit to build but make sure that you can source all your parts before diving in completely. The jacket is the most difficult item to acquire. I had to sew my own since finding a vendor was a very lengthy and difficult process.

If you replace the area (red) with a new panel that is longer (green) I think this would make things work. This jacket seems to be made from black pleather which is pretty easy to source from JoAnn's or similar fabric stores and you should be able to add the panels without too much sewing.

Thanks. Let's see what we can come up with.

Can you link to a large version of the image so that we can take a look, we might be able to come up with some modification suggestions if we can see more details.

Awesome work. Congrats.

When I say cutting, I mean cutting the 3D model before printing. As long as the shape conforms to the shape of the back and it sits fairly flush it will meet the CRL requirements. Hopefully that makes sense.

The edge of the tank that sits against the back needs to conform to the back shape. You'll either need to scale both models at the same time to keep those shapes lined up or you'll need to cut into the tank model. after you've scaled it so that it conforms.

Great work. Thanks for choosing to continue working on your Lancer.

Thanks for confirming.

Is there a silver rivet on the bottom of the new tank?

Much better with the new tank and topper. We'll review the changes and get back to you shortly.

Sorry to hear about it but don't worry about wasting our time, we're here to help and guide. If you decide later that you'd like to reopen this application just let us know.

I need to make a clarification (and a bit of a walk-back), there was some confusion from the armor team. The area around the collar is a little shallow but not the problem area. You back is just sitting a little too low and you will need to take a bit off of the shoulder bridges to bring the entire back up. The best way to approach this is to overlap the shoulder bridges on the back with the shoulder bridges on the chest, tape them in place temporarily and then you can see how much needs to be removed from the back shoulder bridges. This will help move the back upward so that it's sitting properly. Let me know if that needs further explanation.

Congrats. Take your time, it's no rush on our end.

Great work on the armor. After our initial inspection the team has found these areas listed below will need further adjustments. Back: Neck dips very low, below the tank and should have about an inch of back showing above the tank line. You can try adjusting the shoulder bridges by bringing them up and overlapping the chest shoulder bridges while trying to bring the tank down. I suggest taping things in place before making any cuts. If you have further questions about this before cutting please just ask. (Image-01) Shoulder: Can you confirm that the shoulders are affixed with zip ties. It's difficult to tell from the photo. Bund: Visible stitch lines on upper center of bund. It seems like there's velcro sewn behind. The stitching will need to be picked out and removed. Bund should also rest on the top of the belt and not be tucked in. Pouch: Pouches are off-white and belt box straps and chest sides straps will need to be off-white to match. From the CRL: 'If pouches are off-white, dropbox straps must be dyed to match." Belt: Dropbox straps appear to be elastic and need to be made from webbing. From the CRL: "Dropbox straps are 1.5 inches (38mm) wide and made of white cotton webbing." Boots: Toe strip is too tall. Should be roughly ½”. Please note that Imperial Boots/Keep Trooping scout boots are noted for having issues at Level 2: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/ Flightsuit: Buttflap is oversized. Take approximately 2-2.5” off of the bottom and 1” off of each side. Image-01

Thank you for your application. The team will review and get back to you.

I printed all the strapping as well as the collar and the sides of the abs out of TPU. The front ab section and the trapezoid section on the lower back are rigid PETG parts.