MrPoopie

A couple of updates. I got my trousers in a few weeks back from another helpful Trooper. They were originally made for a Tanker but they're the same for the Mountain Trooper. The trousers were little large around the waist for me so I added a couple of pleats and a set of belt loops. My plan is to have the Tassets and Pouches attached to the belt using snap tape so that I can get some of the weight on my hips instead of everything on my shoulders. The pleats will be hidden by the Tassets so I'm not worried about the them showing. Trousers

Agreed. My helmet does touch the tip of my nose once it's on. I have a fairly tall head and a large nose.

I may have printed my own armor files but I went with Troy's helmet. It's great quality for the details and wearability. I also have his Mountain Trooper which I'm currently working on.

The CRL does not require it. The shirt in the CRL is from ArmoryShop and they took liberties with some things which we originally did not have enough detailed images for. This means that either a ribbed or smooth collar is acceptable.its very difficult to see once the helmet is on anyway. For reference the Hot Toys model has a smooth to collar.

The TPU ab sections are velcro backed and they stick to the inner bund via velcro sewn on. I also have suspenders attached directly to the bund to keep everything in place. I will say that I do geta bit of a shoulder ache after about an hour when suited up because of the weight of the abs, belt, chest and back. All the 3D printed material weight really adds up and can be a little heavy. When I designed my Mountain Trooper files after this one I learned a few things about how to cut down weight and mount the internal bund to the undershirt directly instead of using suspender straps which can cut into my shoulders causing the aches. I'm currently in the middle of that build and will be posting pictures soon of what I'm talking about.

It's been a busy day at work otherwise I would have gotten back to you guys sooner. I used a combination of 2 fabrics. The first was a ribbed pleather (faux leather) sold by JoAnn's Fabrics (US) and it was a part of their Yaya Han cosplay line. Sadly this fabric is not sold anymore. The other fabric is a smooth black pleather (faux leather) which was used for the main body as well as the sections between the ribbing on the sleeves. Before using the ribbed fabric I did some tests with the smooth pleather to see if I could have a go at making ribbing myself. It's totally possible although it's tedious and can be pretty frustrating. Basically what you need is pleather as well as a mid-weight backer fabric and piping cord. I also used a special foot for my sewing machine that helps hold everything in place when making ribs. All this being said, I do still have 2 yards of the ribbed pleather that would be enough to make 2 sets of sleeves. I'm willing to sell this off if anyone is interested. It's not cheap fabric though at about $35/yd. You would still need to get smooth pleather for the main body. Depending on how you cut everything and how long your arms are you might have enough to do the ribbing for the neck seal as well. If not, the neck seal is a pretty easy thing to make without ribbed fabric.

Can you turn the vest inside out and take a picture? We're trying to see if the sleeves are padded or just have sewn on ribbing directly onto the fabric by itself.

Not that I'm aware of. We still really don't have a maker for the jacket. The only real option is to make it yourself or find a someone to make it for you. We did recently lower the bar for Lvl.1 jackets. They have a much easier ribbing pattern now and this should help anyone who wants to make the jacket themselves. Jacket Smooth semi-gloss black material. Sleeves are ribbed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Jacket should be tailored to wearer so as not to be too loose or baggy. Sleeves consist of ribbed, smooth and stitched sections. See image for details.

I've never been able to fully dress myself in this armor. The chest and back are awkward to align once the abs and belt are on. I'll see if I can dig up a picture of my belt. It's basically 2 belts in one. There is the outer rubber belt and an inner belt made from canvas and Velcro. All of the boxes and TD are attached using Chicago Screws. I also used leather straps and snaps for my baton. It has enough tension to hold the baton very securely. I can't put it back without help once I've taken it out so I don't do it very often.

The side buckles will be attached to the chest piece. If they were functional they would be connected to the elastic/cloth straps that are on the "wings" on the chest piece. You can see they in the images below.

The side pieces can be set inset like you have it, just make sure that its' trimmed so that it doesn't stick out farther than the chest or back when underneath. I know it may be a bit too late but if those were my files there should have been an alternate back file that had the extra triangular sides removed and a TPU side that could be attached to it that would bend around to fit like you have shown.

Great to hear.

You've corrected the pouches, chest and general spacing of the front armor as well as the biceps and everything there looks good. The only thing remaining is the vest which currently will not pass Lvl 2 standards. The disqualifier is the secondary stitch line giving it a faux raglan sleeve look as it states in the CRL "Vest sleeves have the appearance of being raglan". Since this stitch line is visible from the front (1st Image below) when your armor is on this will not work. Your vest needs to have the appearance of a raglan sleeve such as the example vest pictured (2nd image below). Please let us know if you have any questions about this or need a more detailed explanation. You're very close a this point and the vest is the only thing left to sort out. Great work so far. Example Vest:

Can you please repost the vest pictures as they are not available any more. We're trying to use them for comparison.

Weirdly, this has been my greatest gift to the Pathfinders.

Here is our assessment. Your application is very well put together with a good attention to the details and CRL. That being said, the list below is our remarks. Let us know if you need clarification on any of these items. Chest Try to see if you can bring the chest up a bit (maybe an inch or so). Before you start cutting just see if you can get it to sit a little higher in the front. This will help bring the pouches up as well as the bund. If you are unable to do this you may need to overlap the shoulder bridges a bit and then cut off the excess from the chest and back shoulders bridges. Start by overlapping the bridges a little and tape everything in place to see how it looks and feels and if it brings the chest up a little. If everything works then you can remove a small amount of the bridges. Cummerbund Cummerbund should be moved up 1-1.5". This will help bring the pouches up and move them off the belt. Biceps Biceps should be moved up 1/2" to 3/4". They are a tad too low. Vest Can you provide us with a couple more pictures of your upper body in better lighting (outdoors). We're trying to evaluate the vest but are unable to see well enough to make a full assessment. You vest appears to have a secondary stitch on the sleeves and does not appear to be a raglan sleeve. If this secondary stitch is not visible when suited up with the chest and back covering then it's passable.

The shots in the CRL are of my blaster and I'll be using that one. I may build an E-22 at some point but we'll see how I feel later.

Some pics of the helmet. I still need to give it a clear gloss coat and add some internal pads, but otherwise it's good to go and looks great.

Printed the forearms and working on resin coating them with UV resin. I'll cure this sand then cure a another layer until it's smooth. The initial print is pretty smooth to begin with and was printed on a fairly small layer height 0.16mm with 5 walls and 15% infill. Most of the smaller parts will probably be printed with these settings as they work fairly well and don't too long to print for the quality that I get. I may go to a higher layer height for the chest and back just because they're so large and will take forever on 0.16mm. I'll comment with the print settings on other parts as I go through them. I have some forearm greebles that I previously printed on my resin printer and will be using those. The forearms are from the FOTK so the details will match what they used for the armor.

I've finally decided to give this armor a go now that I have a bit of time between projects. There's not much to show at the moment but I'll be printing my own 3D files for the armor and using @troygordon2 spectacular Mountain Trooper helmet. I'll update the section as I finish items. Helmet: Luna Armor Works @troygordon2 Armor: MrPoopie 3D files (Link) Shirt: TBD probably make it myself Trousers: Unknown maker (received from another Trooper) Tassets: Haus of Poopie (myself) Pouches: Haus of Poopie (myself) Gloves: Endor Finders, Rogue One Trooper Gloves (Link) Gaiters: Will make myself Boots: From Amazon (Link), will be painting white Blaster: MrPoopie 3D files

Can we get a shot of the front so we can see down the barrel.

Not a problem.

Blaster is required for Lvl 2.

Can we get some reference pictures of your EC-17 Blaster.

I did the same thing as @Chopper and stopped trooping with my wire wrapped TD. It's heavy and nobody call tell anyway. I have it hanging around somewhere but it's basically be retired.