MrPoopie

Some pics of the helmet. I still need to give it a clear gloss coat and add some internal pads, but otherwise it's good to go and looks great.

Printed the forearms and working on resin coating them with UV resin. I'll cure this sand then cure a another layer until it's smooth. The initial print is pretty smooth to begin with and was printed on a fairly small layer height 0.16mm with 5 walls and 15% infill. Most of the smaller parts will probably be printed with these settings as they work fairly well and don't too long to print for the quality that I get. I may go to a higher layer height for the chest and back just because they're so large and will take forever on 0.16mm. I'll comment with the print settings on other parts as I go through them. I have some forearm greebles that I previously printed on my resin printer and will be using those. The forearms are from the FOTK so the details will match what they used for the armor.

I've finally decided to give this armor a go now that I have a bit of time between projects. There's not much to show at the moment but I'll be printing my own 3D files for the armor and using @troygordon2 spectacular Mountain Trooper helmet. I'll update the section as I finish items. Helmet: Luna Armor Works @troygordon2 Armor: MrPoopie 3D files (Link) Shirt: TBD probably make it myself Trousers: Unknown maker (received from another Trooper) Tassets: Haus of Poopie (myself) Pouches: Haus of Poopie (myself) Gloves: Endor Finders, Rogue One Trooper Gloves (Link) Gaiters: Will make myself Boots: From Amazon (Link), will be painting white Blaster: MrPoopie 3D files

Can we get a shot of the front so we can see down the barrel.

Not a problem.

Blaster is required for Lvl 2.

Can we get some reference pictures of your EC-17 Blaster.

I did the same thing as @Chopper and stopped trooping with my wire wrapped TD. It's heavy and nobody call tell anyway. I have it hanging around somewhere but it's basically be retired.

This amount of weathering is within bounds. Looks good.

Don't get me wrong it looks cool and goes along with corrosive idea of Corellia's shipyards but alas it's not seen that way in the film or on the toys. It makes a great show piece.

That would be excessive damage. Tou can use a bit of brown with your weathering in the creases as a rust effect so long as it doesn't go overboard. Overall it's still minimal weathering. The boots can have more since they're further down.

My shin attaches to my boots with snaps at the top. It allows me to slip my foot through ( at a weird angle) then I turn the shin in place and snap it to the boot and then zip up. I also have a modified version of the shin file which had a slightly larger loop which was actually modified for someone else. It might help you if you still have trouble after getting your boots. Check out the section with the boots on the Patrol Trooper CRL video that was posted recently. It should help make more sense of what I'm describing.

Post processing for PETG is very similar to PLA but will be more durable for wearable armor in the long run. PETG does take a little more effort to sand but it's honestly pretty comparable to PLA. Take @Aradun advice and check out XTC3D and watch some videos about it's use. It does have a process but I feel that it's easier to work with than bondo. PETG can have syringing issues too because of the higher temps so make sure to dial in your settings and print temp towers. I prefer PETG over PLA but other people have some issues with it. Just dial in your settings and you'll be rewarded with prints that are stronger and more heat resistant.

ABS and printed parts together is approvable as long as the finish makes everything seem like they're from the same kit. Basically you don't want any specific armor piece standing out more than another. This can be a little tricky with larger 3D parts since they sometimes looks pretty crisp compared to ABS parts that have softer edges as a result of the vacuum-forming process. The paint is tricky to match as well. Just make sure to really "finish" your 3D parts well and you should be good.

PM me and we can discuss getting you a file.

Looks good and with pool tubing it will be less weighty on your belt.

If you have a steady hand you could use a dremel to cut a rectangular hole in the chest and then use a small piece of ABS to back it. You will have to fill the gaps with some kind of ABS paste or something similar since there will be some empty space between the inner and outer walls. because prints have infill which is usually something like 20%. The belt is a bit small but if it fits proportionally you may not have trouble getting approved. I know that most smaller trooper still use full size belts because of the strapping size issue and it's rarely noticeable. Just make sure that your dropboxes aren't too large or it the smaller belt will stand out. With the older GA files you will need to replace the holster as it's not up to CRL requirements. The helmet will also require significant modifications to fill in cutouts that should not be present and making the snout area the proper size to fit a CRL acceptable Snout greeble. Those are just a few things. Please read up on a couple of our other builds currently happening with the GA files.

The things that stand out to me are below. Chest & Back: Are the side strap sections indented near the slots? This is not directly in the CRL but the look of the original is still part of the CRL. Holster: Shape is not right missing slots cut out (Lvl 2). This is not mandatory but if you ever decide to go for Lvl 2, replacing the holster can be a pain since you'll need t o drill out the rivets. The rest currently seems like it will pass Lvl 1.

Below is a review of the current Galactic Armory ROTJ Scout 3D model files. Please review this before beginning your GA build as there are many items that do not currently meet the CRL. These can be adjusted and fixed to meet the CRL with some work by any of you willing to build this kit. With all this being said we are working closely with GA and they have agreed to update the files to more closely meet the current ROTJ Scout CRL. The timeframe is still TBD but most likely it will be soon. If you are unsure about something on this list please just ask and we will do our best to help make sense of it. Galactic Armory ROTJ Scout Trooper CRL Adjustments (01-11-24) Helmet • Edges around visor are a bit sharp and should be softened. • When visor is viewed in profile there is a slight wavy curve, this should be straight. • Bolts should have a softer edge to the concave center. (Figure H-01 & H-02) • Snout Greeble is not accurate. (Figure H-03) • Helmet bolts could be separated for use of other style bolts. • Front edge of dome just barely meets up with the visor and could be a bit longer. • Snout area could be made flat to allow for other snout greebles to be used. Shoulder Armor • Top middle of shoulder comes to a bit of a point and should be more rounded. Chest Armor • Grey box area should have smoother edges to give a softer appearance. • Chest and back shoulder bridges are “keyed”. This is not unacceptable, just odd. Back Armor • Tank is a bit too shallow, should protrude more in the back. (Figure B-01, B-02 & B-03) • Smooth the curve on the area between the shoulder bridges and the sides. (Figure H-04) Belt & Hip Box • Cutouts at rear for straps should not exist. Only a single rivet hole should be present. (Figure BL-01 & BL-02) • The edges of boxes could smooth out a bit more to give a softer appearance. • Rectangles between boxes are not necessary, it’s just an artifact of pulling ABS kits. (Figure BL-03 & BL-04) • Strap slot opening on hip boxes is a bit large. It should a be a slight indentation with a slot in the middle. (Figure HB-01, HB-02, HB-03 & HB-04) Thermal Detonator • Greebles should be separate pieces. • Remove “Zip Tie” section in the middle and replace with 2 holes on top and bottom of where “Zip Tie” was. (Figure TD-02) • Area above larger greeble should not indent upwards on upper lip. (Figure TD-01) • Tube should have a slight curve. (Figure TD-04 & TD-05) • Endcaps should be flat with a concave surface. No indentation. • Rectangle Greeble is not accurate. (Figure TD-02 & TD-03) Knee Armor • Needs holes for rivets. (Figure K-01) Holster • Should appear to be 2 separate parts, the main body and the straps that go around the blaster. • The strap thickness is also really thick. Not sure what's needed for structural integrity but the actual holster strap was only the thickness of an abs sheet. • Strap should not protrude below the bottom line where it fits into the main body. (Figure BH-01) • Oval embossed area on the front of strap should be slightly wider. (Figure BH-02 & BH-03) • 5 Vents on strap should be cut through. (Figure BH-02 & BH-03) • The rear side of the holster is very angular and boxy, whereas the screen holster is more graduated. • There should be rivet holes in each corner of the holster body. Link to Figure Images

We appreciate you working on it. In the meantime we'll take a look at the link you sent.

Thank you for your application. The team will review and get back to you. You need to use a image hosting service such as Flickr, Imgur, or something else. and then link them here.

If you purchased files from me there is a newer version of the endcap that should make it easier to paint as it has an indent on the end. Just go re-download the newer file. If not, it should look like the image below. The black area underneath the "cap" section that you're seeing on the Hot Toys model is just weathering in the cracks which makes it seem darker.

I don't personally have any experience with flexible PLA but in theory it should be usable. If it's for the Patrol Trooper you should print the normal "hard" versions of the parts with flexible PLA instead of the parts specifically designed for TPU. The TPU parts are meant to be printed flat and then curved into the proper shapes. They can't be printed with supports. Flexible PLA should give you the same basic rigidity as normal PLA but with some added "give" to it. It doesn't sound like a bad idea honestly but I would try printing out a couple of smaller test parts to see how to print it as well as it's range of movement. You'll also want to see how well it sands and paints. Flexible parts need to be painted differently than normal rigid parts otherwise the paint will crack and flake. I'll be curious to check out your test parts, this seems like an interesting avenue to explore.

Congrats on the hard work and dedication.

My vision is great out of the lens but my movement is limited. I also have a fairly large nose so the tip of my nose rests against the inside face of the helmet. It's not uncomfortable but it does happen.