MrPoopie

Everything is really moving along and look pretty fantastic. I definitely agree about reprinting the visor. Is going to be a stress point whenever you flip it up so make sure it's as strong as possible. Also, make sure to cut out those ear holes for accuracy and t o allow some ventilation. You'd be surprised as how much it helps to allow some airflow through the helmet. Great job all the way around.

Looking real good. I used fiberglass resin (without fiber) to strengthen everything as well as helped smooth it out if you use it on the front sides. You can also use XTC 3D put it can get pricey for larger parts.

Looking more Scout-like. Well, from what I can see.

Same issue. Sorry for the confusion.

They're supposed to line up. What versions of the chest and back are you using? The version of the files need to be the same otherwise changes that were made would not match up. I've made adjustments to these files when I have new information or someone ran into a problem that was faxable. The most recent version is 1.3.1 but you don't necessarily need to be using the most current version just so long as they're matching.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Yz5xkv-7bi9dtaeqC0fwqPtAy1m5ZUeCTEugP2rU2O8/edit?usp=sharing Let me know if you have any trouble viewing the spreadsheet.

@BikerScout007 is correct in saying that the do3d files are not approvable without some changes to many of the parts. We are working on 3D models but they aren't completed just yet. They're probably about 80% done. I'll let everyone know when they're complete if you would like to go that route.

You can check out my Thingiverse page. I have all the parts for the Scout armor except the helmet. I'd still suggest getting an ABS helmet kit from one of the vendors here on the forum. If you look at the WIP forum there are a few different Scouts who've built these models and shown how to do he proper finish work to get them up to CRL standards. Let me know if you've got any questions though. The Chest armor is being revised right now so if you start printing parts save that one for last. I should have a newer version uploaded soon. https://www.thingiverse.com/MrPoopie/designs

Glad to be of service.

Chiming away. Are you talking about the Snout for the helmet? If so, yes. Just make sure to take measurements from your helmet first to make sure it'll fit properly. All the helmets are slightly different and you may need to "stretch" the model by a couple of millimeters to make sure it's the proper height. Also, make sure to print this on as fine a detail and layer height as you can. The little fins are really thin and need all the layers you can give them. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967563

Thanks again to everyone for the support

Thanks everyone.

Thanks. This one means a great deal to me. It's been very rewarding for the first 100 and I'm sure the next 100 will be just as awesome.

This will probably happen when they open the other First Order ride sometime this fall.

It's not out of the question that's for sure.

The donor boot is a Palladium Pampa Hi Originale. I'm not yet at the point where I'm taking commissions. I still have some testing to make sure everything hold together as expected and I have a couple of other sets I need to make first. I'll keep everyone posted to when commissions are ready.

Sorry, no. I'll only be doing commissions for resoled boots (without the leather). The shape of the sole is sized to the shape of the donor boot. It would be very difficult to affix the sole to another boot upper without gaps and such. Also, you can't just use normal glue to put them together.

After many delays and a whole bunch of other projects started, I've finally finished the first boots. These have custom soles and are made with white deer leather not vinyl. The holster is 3D printed too. I'm not sure how many of these I'll make but it was a massive undertaking. Hope everyone likes them.

And chime in I shall. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3021011 This scope allows for mounting to a Hyperfirm or a couple other styles of DLT-19. depending on your exact rifle you may need to adjust the mounting plate but the rest is accurate to how the 19x scope is supposed to look. The front Honeycomb is optional and not CRL (I just like how it looks). You also need to cut off your biped if you're going for a true 19x.

Undershirt looks like Shore. Pants almost like the Shore but less baggy. I think that thigh guards are fabric with batting inside to give a heavy appearance with pouches laid on top.

I think it lets us know what's recycled and what's new.

Found some new shots when digging around. Just the toy still though. It lets us see the back and also that those hip flaps (under the pouches) are fabric and not rigid.

That's pretty awesome actually. I really appreciate someone who wants to build their own armor and wants the bigger project. My first big build with my 3D printer was my Samurai armor and I learned a huge amount by doing that. I also took on a different project of making boot soles and printing 3D molds for that. Learning how to mold and proper materials has been a pretty big undertaking for me. As for the shoretrooper, greater minds will have to chime in about that as I have very little experience with that armor.

That's where I was hoping this would go after yours was completed.

Molding and casting in resin would be much easier to finish and more durable for sure. I'm not sure about the cost though unless you already had most of the equipment and knowhow to get it done. Building armor from scratch isn't really about trying to accomplish something for a lower cost but wanting to build it yourself. It's more a sense of satisfaction and understanding the small details of your armor. Kits are pretty cheap and easily acquired but building all or most of your armor means you get to get every little detail right as well as making something that is perfectly fit and custom to your body size and form. All this being said, I say if you've got the time and knowledge, go for it and share your results with everyone.