MrPoopie

Glad to be of service.

Chiming away. Are you talking about the Snout for the helmet? If so, yes. Just make sure to take measurements from your helmet first to make sure it'll fit properly. All the helmets are slightly different and you may need to "stretch" the model by a couple of millimeters to make sure it's the proper height. Also, make sure to print this on as fine a detail and layer height as you can. The little fins are really thin and need all the layers you can give them. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967563

Thanks again to everyone for the support

Thanks everyone.

Thanks. This one means a great deal to me. It's been very rewarding for the first 100 and I'm sure the next 100 will be just as awesome.

This will probably happen when they open the other First Order ride sometime this fall.

It's not out of the question that's for sure.

The donor boot is a Palladium Pampa Hi Originale. I'm not yet at the point where I'm taking commissions. I still have some testing to make sure everything hold together as expected and I have a couple of other sets I need to make first. I'll keep everyone posted to when commissions are ready.

Sorry, no. I'll only be doing commissions for resoled boots (without the leather). The shape of the sole is sized to the shape of the donor boot. It would be very difficult to affix the sole to another boot upper without gaps and such. Also, you can't just use normal glue to put them together.

After many delays and a whole bunch of other projects started, I've finally finished the first boots. These have custom soles and are made with white deer leather not vinyl. The holster is 3D printed too. I'm not sure how many of these I'll make but it was a massive undertaking. Hope everyone likes them.

And chime in I shall. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3021011 This scope allows for mounting to a Hyperfirm or a couple other styles of DLT-19. depending on your exact rifle you may need to adjust the mounting plate but the rest is accurate to how the 19x scope is supposed to look. The front Honeycomb is optional and not CRL (I just like how it looks). You also need to cut off your biped if you're going for a true 19x.

Undershirt looks like Shore. Pants almost like the Shore but less baggy. I think that thigh guards are fabric with batting inside to give a heavy appearance with pouches laid on top.

I think it lets us know what's recycled and what's new.

Found some new shots when digging around. Just the toy still though. It lets us see the back and also that those hip flaps (under the pouches) are fabric and not rigid.

That's pretty awesome actually. I really appreciate someone who wants to build their own armor and wants the bigger project. My first big build with my 3D printer was my Samurai armor and I learned a huge amount by doing that. I also took on a different project of making boot soles and printing 3D molds for that. Learning how to mold and proper materials has been a pretty big undertaking for me. As for the shoretrooper, greater minds will have to chime in about that as I have very little experience with that armor.

That's where I was hoping this would go after yours was completed.

Molding and casting in resin would be much easier to finish and more durable for sure. I'm not sure about the cost though unless you already had most of the equipment and knowhow to get it done. Building armor from scratch isn't really about trying to accomplish something for a lower cost but wanting to build it yourself. It's more a sense of satisfaction and understanding the small details of your armor. Kits are pretty cheap and easily acquired but building all or most of your armor means you get to get every little detail right as well as making something that is perfectly fit and custom to your body size and form. All this being said, I say if you've got the time and knowledge, go for it and share your results with everyone.

Congratulations. We're very happy to have you. I know Bill must be pretty excited too.

I forgot to mention a couple things. If you've never made armor or have never printed large 3D parts and assembled armor I would suggest going the ABS kit route. making armor even from a kit can be daunting enough without having to figure out the 3D printing aspect. It will also help you understand how armor goes together better. 3D printing is a pretty big undertaking unless you have experience with it already. If however you like a challenge and enjoy making all your own parts then it's definitely something to look into. It can be very rewarding but it also takes a great deal of time and patience.

I've printed both (ABS and PLA) and made ABS armor. Here's what I've learned making armors and printing. ABS - Easy to work with and most kits come in this form. It can just be cut with normal lexan scissors and cleaned up fairly easily with minimal sanding on the cut edges. The downfalls are that the lines will never be as sharp or precise as something that's 3D printed since they're pulling ABS from a mold in a vacuum it will inevitably have softer, less defined edges. This doesn't mean it can't look good though. PLA (3D print) - fairly cheap to print with and very easy to work with on the 3D printer itself. Finish work is where this takes more time. PLA is notoriously difficult to sand completely smooth and takes a lot of work to get it to the point where you don't see print lines. You also need to make sure that most parts are at least 2-3mm thick for strength. You can however make parts stronger if you coat the insides (and outside if desired) in resin. The resin will fill most of the small cracks and print lines and leave you with a smooth paintable surface. You can also use several layers of primer filler to fill small imperfections but it will never fill as much as resin. And small pits or cuts can be filled with bondo or other filler material. If you resin the outside of your parts though you will lose a little bit of definition. 3D parts can look incredibly defined and sharp if done properly. Most of the time you'll want to print armor parts at 0.1-0.2mm layers with a 0.2-0.4 nozzle. Print time will be pretty long but you'll get a very smooth surface to start with before finish work. One downfall to PLA is if it doesn't have a protective resin or other surface covering layer is that it's susceptible to shrinking and warping in direct sunlight. The glass point of PLA is much lower that ABS and other plastics so it warps sooner, especially with darker PLA colors. ABS (3D print) - Roughly the same cost as PLA. ABS can be more of a pain to work with when 3D print as bed adhesion is more of a problem and higher printing temps can cause issues with some printers. Once it's completed though ABS is very easy to sand and finish to get smooth. You'll still want roughly the same thickness as PLA when printing armor, just for the sake of strength and resilience. You shouldn't need to coat anything in resin though unless you really want a super smooth surface. Just make sure the resins you use won't melt ABS. However ABS can be smoothed with a vapor bath but this takes little bit of knowhow. Follow the same basic layer height and nozzle size as PLA. Nylon (3D print) - If you're feeling up to it you can always print with Nylon or other specialty filaments such as Carbon Fiber infused nylon or flexible filaments such as TPU. Just a word of warning though, these filaments are very difficult to work with and take extra knowledge but can yield amazing results. As for finish work you can use normal spray paint with any 3D filaments just make sure you take your time and prime and sand between painting layers for best results. You can also take your parts to an auto body painting shop and have a professional take care of it for even better results. Here are a few parts I've recently finished painting after much finish work. These were printed in PLA, resin coated backsides and plenty of primer filler and multiple layers of paint and sanding. There are some small imperfections but I'm pretty happy with the results anyway.

Awesome. Thanks for this. I'm going to take a closer look and see what I can start.

Thanks boss.

Anyone going to Celebration, can you keep an eye open for any Mountain Trooper images, toys, etc. Any new pictures or info would be a great help to get this thing moving.

Looking forward to another year. Let's keep the ball rolling, it's got some steam built up already.

Welcome to the awesome club.