MrPoopie

I measure my own shin and also my Patrol trooper shin, which is very similar. It really seems like it's a 1.5" strap but when you get the spacing right it makes the whole things much more compact like it should be. It's roughly 25cm from top to bottom which puts it below my knee and several inches up from where my ankle breaks. I do have long legs though and tried to take a bit more off after I measured. Being a printable model people could adjust it slightly to allow for a little bit shorter if needed but you'll also need to widen the strap cutouts or taper your strap ends ever so slightly.

Shin. Still need to do the knee.

This maybe a good compromise, I'd be curious to see it. Regardless I'm confident that it's not a solid being of ABS like the Shore.

Ok, I"ll build as if they're 1" or 1.25" , I'll have to see what looks best.

On a different note, are those straps on the shins 1.5" wide?

My other thought is that these could be leather which would give the flexibility and also be able to cut the detail work into it. Either a thick piece of leather or a couple pieces glued/stitched together.

I think 1/4" is fine but you might want to use something like batting instead so it's not super rigid. Just my opinion. The canvas or duck cloth is already pretty rigid and stiff so you mostly need to fill it out so it's thicker with the fill material. a couple of layers of duck cloth and a layer or two of batting then another couple layers of duck cloth will give you something really sturdy but still flexible enough that you could roll it up if you tried.

That's amazing and terrible at the same time.

Yup. I'll have to figure out a good way to attach them together so they're stronger than the Shore knees but I'll figure something out and see what everyone thinks.

I could probably model something up real quick this afternoon. That way it can be scaled like you said. It's a really easy straight shape.

It seems like a gaiter that a hiker would use. Soft but functional and with an armor plate on the shin (because Stromtrooper). Same things goes for the hip "armor", soft, this Trooper is supposed to be in mountainous terrain, so being light and mobile would make the most sense. The hip pads seem thick and fairly padded but also rigid for a fabric so probably a heavy canvas.

Updates to CRL, please read and offer suggestions. New additions in "Red", Previous changes in "Blue", Original ROTJ Scout in "Black" I can provide images for any questionable CRL additions or changes, please just ask. Easier to Read Version: Word Doc Version Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet · Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. · Lens is black in color and obscures wearer's eyes. · Decals are screen accurate. · Snout greeblie is medium gray and the aerator portion is painted black. · Inner edge of snout recess is black. · Bolts are flat. or have concave centers · Helmet is true to the shape of original screen accurate helmet. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · No mesh material mounted in the ears. · Area behind ears inside the helmet is blacked out, either with paint or gaffer tape. · Snout greeblie is screen-accurate: it is an elongated plate with a rounded top, with a detail modeled after a Yamaha XS1100LG model motorcycle engine and sink aerator affixed to the bottom half. “Sticker” snouts are not acceptable. · Snout recess on helmet is painted black. Stickers are not acceptable. · Helmet bolts are White 3M bolts or other replicas. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). · Optional: No visible seams on the dome. · For the 'Back and Cap' style bucket constructions, the join around the top of the dome is as flush as possible. Fill this seam so it is not visible. The screen used helmets did not have a join in this area due to a different construction method. Balaclava · A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer's skin and/or facial hair. Neck Seal · Black with 6 horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck and zippered split in undersuit. · Secured at back of neck. Flight Suit · See the Scout Trooper Flight Suit page for detailed images of the patches described below. · The undersuit is a one or two-piece black textile suit, such as military flightsuits, motorcycle racing suits, industrial work clothing (Red Kap/Dickies), or similar suits modified appropriately. · The suit is free of any visible labels, logos or zippers (including built in flight suit pockets). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Undersuit is tailored to the wearer. Shoulder Armor · Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. · Black elastic secures the armor around upper arm. · These pieces are free of any adornment. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Bottom corners are rounded. Upper Arm Armor (Bicep) · Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. · Armor has a recessed area with a "t-bit" detail attached within. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Film-accurate "T-bit" detail is mounted to armor. · T-bit circle detail piece faces forward on each arm. · Forearm Armor · Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. · Black elastic is used to secure the armor around forearm. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Armor is secured around the arm with a 25mm ( 1") black elastic strap. Gloves · Black leather or leather-like and gauntlet length. · Glove details include: o Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger and thumb. o Four tightly spaced ribs that span the knuckles. · No labels/logos, clips, or external straps. · Knuckle plate on right glove over ribbed area attached by pair of red wire/tubes to secondary port plate on wrist area. · Knuckle plate and secondary port plate give the illusion of metal or are gun-metal colored. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Gauntlets fit wearer's arm snugly and do not flare. Chest Armor · Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. · There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that is painted a medium to dark gray. · The chest and back armor join together over the shoulder. and the gap covered with a strip of white fabric (the "shoulder bridge"). · The sides of the chest armor attach to the back armor with off-white webbing. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 40mm (1.5") white cotton webbing. · Optional: 40mm (1.5 inch) white elastic material is acceptable provided the color matches. Back Armor · Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. · The back armor has a center tank attached. · The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black. · Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the screen-used armor. · Top detail piece has a white painted circle and 2 red boxes on either side of “dial”. · "Dial" has thick red stripe going across it, perpendicular to the edge · The tank has a black stripe detail. · "Rank bars" present on the right side of the tank should number 4 stripes. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Back and Tank are two separate parts. · Only 4 stripes on tank are acceptable · Tank has screen-accurate greeblie tank topper detail. · Tank topper is a separate greeblie to the tank itself. · Tank topper is secured with single metal colored rivet in the center of the greeblie. · Tank has properly placed pin striping with trapezoid and a single bottom attachment rivet. Cummerbund and Codpiece · Cummerbund o Made from white fabric and may be lightly weathered. o Closure in back is right-over-left. o Extends from just above the chest armor down to the belt. o Evenly spaced vertical stitches go from the front to the sides. (roughly 22 “stitches”) . · Codpiece o Tapered codpiece has a sewn inverted curve detail. o Black elastic strap connects codpiece between the legs to the back of the cummerbund. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cummerbund · Made of smooth white cotton fabric. · Polished cotton or mercerized cotton is preferred. Canvas or duck cloth is not permitted. · The cummerbund is separate from the flight suit. · Cummerbund ribs are 1 inch wide. · No visible external edge stitching. Codpiece · Made of the same cotton fabric as the cummerbund · Polished cotton or mercerized cotton is preferred. Canvas or duck cloth is not permitted. · Elastic strap is 50mm (2 inches). · Codpiece and sewn curve conforms to shape pictured in the CRL, Costumes book or ROTK Scout Trooper. · Codpiece does not bunch excessively around groin area. · Codpiece attaches under the cummerbund either to the undersuit or the backside of the cummerbund. The codpiece is NOT sewn to the bottom edge of the cummerbund. Belt and Detonator · Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. · The front and four "boxes" of the belt are made of plastic. · The remainder of the belt that fastens at the back of the waist is made from black leather or leather-like material. · Hanging from the sides of the belt are two plastic hip boxes ("drop boxes"). · 4 black parachute buckles attach to the drop box straps, one on either side of the drop box. · Drop boxes connect to the belt via off-white textile straps. · Thermal detonator box with short corrugated hose attaches to the back of the belt. · The correct thermal detonator greeblies are attached to the box. · The rectangular part of the thermal detonator greeblie, fixed on the right side of the detonator upside down, is the same as used in the rebel Endor trooper rank badge. · On the left hand side is the same round greeblie as used on the Scout tank topper. · See the detonator detail page for a close up image of the greeblies. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Belt is worn on the waist and not on the hips. · Belt has the appearance of being a one-piece construction. Any joins or seams are filled. · 1 3/8 inch (35mm) leather or leather-like belt in the back. · Drop boxes hang approximately 1 inch from the belt. · Dropbox straps are 1.5 inches (38mm) wide and made of off-white cotton webbing. · Parachute buckles are not functional. · Thermal Detonator end caps are concave and not flat. · Thermal Detonator has visible black clips attaching it to the web belt, as seen in the film. · Thermal detonator tube color is medium to light gray. Knee Armor · Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. · Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · The elastic strap may be 12mm (1/2 inch) or 20mm (3/4 inch) wide and passes through the lower sides of the knee armor. Boots · White and may be lightly weathered. · The soles of the boot are tan. · A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot. · Dog bones have double stitching along the rounded edges as seen in the film. · The boots are secured up the back using 25mm (1 inch) white hook and loop fastener. · The calf of the boot rises to just slightly underneath the bottom of the knee armor. · Left boot closure is left-over-right. · Right boot closure is right-over-left. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · The boots have slots cut into the heels and toes as seen in the film. · The boot sole is a single color with no visible stitching. · Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused. Holster · Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. · Attached to the outside of the right boot with rivets OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Attached with four silver colored rivets. Harness · Two black shoulders straps that connect to a wider torso strap that buckles closed across the front of the wearer in the middle of the cummerbund. · Secured in front with hidden buckle. · Buckle has the appearance of metal. · Straps are padded at the shoulders and along the wearer's flanks. · Two Velcro style flaps on left shoulder to secure the wires. One each in the front and rear of padding. · A control box is attached to the wearer's front right vertical torso strap. · The rear torso strap attaches to a large battery with two loops around either end of the battery secured with Velcro. · Battery cradle is padded on lower half and matches padding on other parts of harness. · A small black junction box is attached to the top of wearer's right shoulder strap. · 1 pair of orange-red wires runs down into the top of the control box with two connector guides near bottom of right shoulder padding · 1 pair of orange-red wires runs down the wearer's back into the battery into single hole. · 1 pair of orange-red wires runs down the wearer's right arm underneath shoulder and forearm armor and tucks into wearer's glove. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Harness webbing is 2 inch (50mm). · Battery cradle webbing is 1 inch (25mm) · Webbing on top of shoulders gives illusion of being adjustable with extra webbing sticking out on the front and back of each should padded area. · Harness is tailored to the wearer. Battery Pack · Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. · Cylinder shaped with central radiator that has 8 veins that are black in color. · Sits inside padded webbing cradle at lower back above Thermal Detonator. · Left side detail area with two rings, larger ring toward center of battery and smaller ring towards left end with smaller “spout” protrusion. · Left side rings are connected by 8 fins. · Black detail cap on left side with hollow center. · Right side has rectangular box with semi-circular cutout for riot baton. · Top right side of batter has small circular area with black connector hole for wires. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Battery is approx. 5 ½ inch (140mm) in diameter and 13 ½ inch (340mm) wide. · Proper spacing of radiator center to align with padded cradle with 1 inch webbing. · Connection wires are fed into single hole. Control Box · The control box is a square plastic box with 8 raised ridges across the top and halfway down the front. · The lower front of the box is white. · Three rectangular red or mirror-finished buttons run down the front left. · Small tapered opening is below the 3 buttons. · The bottom center-right of the box is a large indent, rectangular in shape with tapered sides. · Three large and two small buttons inside bottom center-right large indent area. · See the Control Box detail page for a close up image of the greeblies. · OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Main control box is approx. 6 ¼ inch (160mm) wide, 7 inch (175mm) high, and 2 inch (50mm) deep. · White section of control box is approx. 5 ¼ inch (135mm) wide, 3 ½ inch (90mm) high, and ¾ inch (18mm) deep. Riot Baton · Semi-gloss black main body. · Silver or gun-metal colored telescoping end with larger tip area. · Tip has 2 small “teeth” on end and two sets of 4 venting holes each. · Main body end has detailed area with copper colored ring. · Center control area consists of front button assembly. o Two small silver buttons. o One large black button. · Protruding button housing with one round grey button on outer side. · Central ring has single dial with silver “screw” head. · Bottom half of baton consists of knurled grip with single large black protruding button. · Bottom end is tapered to smaller end. · “T” shaped detail greeblie on bottom end. · See the Riot Baton detail page for a close up images of the greeblies. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · Baton telescoping front is locked in place while collapsed for storage and locks in place when fully extended in “weapon” mode. · 36 inch (915mm) in length when closed, 47 ½ inch (1210mm) in length when full extended · Main body is approx. 2 ¼ inch (60mm) wide Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. Hold-out Blaster · Flat or semi-gloss black. · Blaster does not have any visible trigger. · Blaster is lightly weathered. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): · The scope has lens discs cut into the scope for a more realistic appearance. · No decals representing cross hairs or similar. · No drilled barrels. The screen used ones did not have drilled barrels. Captain Pauldron · Orange colored pauldron may be worn on right shoulder.

Very helpful. I'm actually jumping back into this again since I have to make new boots that will double for the Jedi:Fallen Order Scout and my current Scout. My boots are pretty wrecked after 120+ troops. Kids are constantly asking why my boots don't look like other peoples boots. I have to give some story about how it's rough out on Endor and we don't always get supplies in a timely manner. They love it but I sigh every time it happens.

Quick update. I've been working on many different parts the past week after I got a couple boxes of goodies from @The Wayner. Many of these things are still being worked on but I thought I post a few WIP pics. It's getting closer to being finished every day. My new armor should be delivered in a couple of days too.

PM me if you can't find original WTF parts and I can send you links to 3D printable files for any greebles.

PLA is an option but it will not take the heat outside like ABS will. If you live somewhere hot or plan on trooping in direct sunlight you may see warping unless you coat your prints with a resin finish of some kind. The other thing you may run into is that PLA is notoriously difficult to sand properly and finish with leaving print lines. It's not impossible but you need to do some research about properly finishing and sealing PLA prints.

Not self promotion. My snout is flat on the bottom, try that and let me know how it goes. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1i7ki1s5h8quogf/AADIm8Kx7B2JOC2cN0QMbyQwa?dl=0

Printing directly on the buildplate or with a raft?

Possible Over-extrusion. Check the link below. What's your infill percentage? https://all3dp.com/2/over-extrusion-3d-printing-tips-and-tricks-to-solve-it/

Do you have any pics.

I sure looks like they reused the model for the battery pack at least.

We have one @MrsPoopie

This. 3D armor looks great but needs a great deal of work to stand up to intense extended trooping.

yes, If the elastic is properly stretched (not too much) it will just hold itself in place. Gloss coat the white then paint the black snout area last since it's a flat black. You can attach decals before or after gloss coating. Sometimes it helps to gloss after decals so they are underneath a coat of paint and less likely to get scratched off. If you're using stickers and not decals then put the stickers on last after the gloss coat.

Thanks. All great advice. I made my girlfriend's boots out of the white deer skin from Tandy and it is a bit fragile. It'll work for her since she doesn't troop nearly as much as I do. I did have to back the uppers with a cardboard like leather backing material but it's too rigid. Painting might be a better option. I've painted leather shoes before so I'm at least familiar with that process. The vinyl is definitely the easiest route and probably best at this point. We were trying to go with leather as it's screen accurate but like many things that are screen accurate, it's also more of a pain in the ass. I'll have to weight my options and come up with a plan.